• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.431-439
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• 2014

This research verified the usefulness and practicality of citrus peel extract as a natural dye. This study dyed cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics using citrus peel extract, and measured the dyeability and functional property to verify their usefulness and practicality. The dyeing affinity of the citrus peel extract was measured by dyeing under alkaline conditions to determine the temperature and time for optimal dyeing conditions of the solution. The results show that a temperature and time of $60^{\circ}C$ and 30 minutes were optimal for dyeing cotton fabrics with citrus peel extract, $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for silk fabrics, and $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics, respectively. In addition the results of measuring the color fastness of the cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics dyed with the citrus peel extract show that the color fastness was superior for washing, friction, sweat, and water. However, the color fastness for sunlight appeared to be slightly weak. In addition, it was found that fabric dyed with the citrus peel extract showed partial antimicrobial properties. The antimicrobial property appeared the greatest in the silk fabric. The cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics had 90% or more Staphylococcus aureus present, but the antimicrobial properties were not high in the cotton fabric. Additionally, the heavy metal content, which is harmful to the human body, appeared to be lower than standard figures, so the dye was found to be innocuous to humans. Therefore, when the results of this study are put together, citrus peel extract is sufficiently useful and practical as an ingredient for a natural dye. Moreover, there is ample possibility to develop citrus peel dyed fabrics as environmentally friendly fashion materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.183-197
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to compare the purchase intention on naturally dyed clothing between Korea and the US. As independent variables that affect the purchase intention, benefits that consumers seek when purchasing naturally dyed clothing, especially for fabric materials, and attitudes towards naturally dyed clothing were selected. A quantitative research method with a survey was employed. 160 data from Korea and 180 data from the US were used for the analysis. The convenience sampling method (i.e., college female students) was used. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test and regression analysis were employed to test the differences in purchase intention, fabric benefit sought, and the attitudes. The fabric benefit sought selected for this study includes eco-friendliness, uniqueness, aesthetic, comfort and quality. The attitude toward naturally dyed clothing was categorized as an emotional and a cognitive attitude. The results show the significant differences in the fabric benefit sought depending on nationality, major and experiences in natural dyeing. Significant differences were found in of the attitude toward naturally dyed clothing among the nationalities and the experience types in natural dyeing. In addition, there were significant differences in purchase intention toward naturally dyed clothing between Korean and the US participants, and countries show different fabric benefits and attitudes which influenced participants' purchase intention. The results of this study suggest an appropriate fabric planning for environment-friendly fashion products for both countries.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2015

This study investigated the effects of persimmon-dyed clothing materials upon thermophysiological responses and subjective comfort sensations during exercise and rest in a warm environment. Six healthy, untrained women participated in two separate testing sessions, with cotton materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract (DC) and undyed cotton materials (UDC). The physical characteristics associated with heat and moisture transfer were improved in DC; also, stiffness, anti-drapery stiffness and crispness in the primary hand values were higher in DC. The experimental protocol consisted of a 10-min rest, 15-min exercise on a treadmill (at ${7km{\cdot}h^{-1}}$) and 25-min recovery at $28{\pm}0.2^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}3%\;RH$. The results were as follows: When wearing DC rather than UDC, mean body temperature, heart rate, heat storage and body mass loss were significantly lower during the whole experimental period. Clothing microclimate temperature showed different profiles between the two clothing materials, being lower with DC than UDC during the first half of exercise and the second half of recovery. Clothing microclimate humidity was significantly lower with DC than UDC during the whole experimental period. When wearing UDC, subjects felt significantly warmer and less comfortable during exercise, and sensed greater humidity during exercise and recovery. These results suggest that eco-friendly clothing materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract can reduce exercise-induced heat load and improve subjective sensations when exercising and resting in a warm environment, due to greater heat dissipation from the body to the outside environment compared with undyed clothing materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.21-32
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to establish the idea of sustainable slow design by analyzing literatures and preceding cases, based on the external elements of a design including forms, the methods of expression, materials and colors. This study reviewed the previous literature of books and pictures related to the research for case studies and content analysis. fashion books, magazines, and web-sites published from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed for this research. The sustainable slow design trends in fashion can be summarized as follow. The first is a timeless style which has sustain ability in design independently of the versatile fads and relies on functionality, serving the purpose of design. One of the examples is both clothes designed by Burberry and suits by Chanel. The second is a hand-touch style which the more time for outputs can be positively tolerated, in favor on eco-friendly design through the techniques of manual arts. The third is a renewable design which the combined values of design with reuse and renewal result in recreation of past ecology as shown in the technique of designs by mix & match. The forth is a transformable design which features the multi-purpose and multi-forms, eventually extending the lift cycle of products. As a result of analysis of the four designs above, it can be inferred that the representation of past styles, the mixture of old design with new design, the appropriate combination of conventional fabrics with advanced ones, the ecological trends of sports look was emerging.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.752-758
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• 2018

Due to environmental pollution and human hazards of some synthetic dyes, the global fashion companies are increasingly interested in eco-friendly products, especially natural dye. For the globalization of natural dyeing industry based on this concern, however, there are some deficiencies of standardization, specification, and conformity assessment on natural dyestuffs as well as natural dyeing process. These obstacles should be not only studied but also defined for a commercial transaction. Accordingly, a study for conformity assessment on commercialized natural dyestuffs (red) was conducted by HPLC analysis in this study. As the results of HPLC analysis, alizarin and purpurin, representative index ingredients, were detected in most of the samples, but the index ingredient content in each sample was different. In addition, some samples showed the variety of peaks including the index ingredients and others. It was inferred that the representative index ingredients could be used on the traceability of natural sourced dyestuffs. These results are related to the index ingredient consistency, standardization, and reproducibility of natural dyed products including such as yarns, fabrics, garments, and so on. Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that in order to determine the conformity assessment system for the satisfaction of all stakeholders, the offering of information on the origin, manufacturing process, and index ingredient content of natural dyes should be prioritized.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.112-119
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• 2019

This study had a purpose of further investigating and developing the usage of the eco-friendly functional dye that has physiological and pharmacological functions. This study was implemented complex dyeing method which used both natural dyes such as Gardenia jasminoides J.Ellis colorant, which are the yellow dyes that have high brightness and low chroma, and Xanthium strumarium L. extract. The silk fabrics were used to dye in various methods. They were also used to investigate functionalities dyed fabrics by various treating method, such as their color fastness, antibacterial activities and deodorization, the following were obtained. The fabrics that were dyed with herbs had decreasing brightness as the herbs extract concentrations were increased and had subtly changing chroma. But, because their K/S values were under 0.5, they were not properly dyed. Color fastness differed according to the natural dyes and herbs' complex dyeing order. The Color fastness was good when the fabrics were dyed with the colorant first, and then with the herb. When the fabrics were dyed with mixture dyeing solution, the natural dye and the herb extract, the herb didn't affect the dyeabilities of fabrics as much. When the fabrics were dyed with the mixture of the colorant and the herb extract, the dyeabilities didn't have much changes. However, their color fastnesses were improved a little bit due to the complex dyeing condition. When the fabrics were dyed with the mixture of the colorant and the herbs extract, their antibacterial activities and deodorization were increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.1052-1062
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• 2021

This study aims to confirm the possibility of Ultra-Violet (UV)-printed 3D printing materials using thermal polyurethane (TPU) with CMYK colors by applying an eco-friendly UV digital printing process. A UV-printed 3D printing TPU material was prepared with cycles of UV printing and CMYK colors. Dyeability of the 3D TPU samples with cycles of UV printing and CMYK were analyzed for thickness, weight, surface roughness, reflectance, colorimetry, and K/S values. The thickness and weight of 3D-printed TPU samples with cycles of UV printing are increased with overprints from 1 to 5. The surface roughness of 3D-printed TPU samples with increasing UV prints were decreased, meaning that the surface of TPU samples becomes gradually smoother. The reflectance spectra of CMYK UV-printed TPU samples showed the surface reflectance within each characteristic wavelength of CMYK. The 3D-printed TPU samples, subjected to UV printing twice or more, showed low surface reflectance. After examining the L^*a^*b^* of the 3D-printed TPU samples by the cycles of UV printing, the study found that the more UV got printed more than 2 times, the closer the color to each CMYK.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.801-811
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• 2022

In this study, we constructed a database of dyeing concentrations of all reactive dyes used for dyeing linen according to the thickness of the linen fabric and attempted to improve the reproducibility of the dyeing process for the commercialization of linen fabric materials. Linen fabric is a natural cellulose material that is comfortable and suitable for eco-friendly trends. It is a typical summer material with excellent breathability and thermal conductivity, quick moisture absorption and dissipation, and a cool touch. Dyeability and fastness were evaluated depending on the thickness of the linen fabric using a monochlorotriazine (MCT) reactive dye and bifunctional yellow, red, and blue dyes. All three colors of the MCT reactive dye and bifunctional dyes exhibited a darker shade as the fiber thickness of the marker increased. Fastness to washing was excellent at grades 4-5 or higher, regardless of the color of the dye and the number of linen fabrics. Although some color-fastness differences were noted, with the color change occurring most frequently with blue color, the fastness variations with dye type were mostly similar. The results of this study are expected to facilitate the selection of reactive dyes according to the thickness of the linen fabric based on the basic data from the laboratory, which will aid in the mass production of linen fabric and benefit the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.132-144
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• 2006

21C, the age of culture, has the effects on the whole aspects in society with its cultural features, and the social changes become the foundation to create the new culture. The W generation, which accounts for Woman, World, Well-being, and Web, etc, leads the trend as 'a new group of powerful consumers' of establishing a new pattern. The W generation prefers psychidelic make-up using pearl through the cyber space, a space for communication like the N generation. In addition, through the Internet, leading the society of fusion or hybrid, with gender and age broken-up, the feminine as well as kidult-like make-up has emerged. On the other hand, with the influence of well-being on the whole society, well-looking appears outside, and lohas inside. The W generation prefers glossy make-up in order to make the skin healthy and polished, and eco-friendly products with lohas.