• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.853-865
• /
• 2012

This study has analyzed body size of adult women between 20~59 years old in 2010 conducted by Size Korea and the study method is as follow. (1) Distribution ratio of bust circumference per age and distribution ratio of differences of bust drops were analyzed. (2) Analysis of one-way design of experiment was carried out for 20 items of body sizes according to differences of bust drops with regard to age groups of 20 and 40 years old in consideration of tourists who are unspecified target and for the whole ages groups. (3) Comparison analysis of 20 items of body sizes per bust circumference and according to level of differences of bust drops was carried out and (4) t-test of the two groups based on the standard of 12.5 cm of the differences of bust drops was conducted and was analyzed. Tthe differences of bust drops below 10 cm were reduced according to ages. 12.5 cm was the most in the group of ages of 20s and under 7.5 cm was reduced as ages were higher. Body items according to the differences of bust drops per ages had meaningful differences between groups except (acromion height-axilla height), height and shoulder length for the group of ages of 20s and in the whole ages groups, there was meaningful difference between groups in all items except height and shoulder length. Comparisons according to the differences of bust drops per section of 5 cm of bust circumference showed meaningful differences between groups in general in items of BMI, bust point-bust point, neck circumference, bust circumference, underbust circumference, neck point to bust point and weight. As the result of comparing the two groups of the differences of bust drops based on the standard of 12.5 cm, all had meaningful differences except stature and shoulder length.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.66-79
• /
• 2014

Unlike other body arts, body painting illuminates the value of art using eco-friendly formative activity and natural environment and highlights the need of eco-friendly activity. However, although body painting has focused on forming right relationship between human beings and nature, there are few researches which are linked with nature art. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to argue the need to study body painting as nature art in connection with natural environment and analyze body painting according to nature art types. The study methods included both theoretical review and empirical review. The theoretical review examined the concept and characteristics of nature art through previous researches and literature and the empirical review looked into the types and works of nature art and applied them to body painting works. The results were as follows. First, an installation type was possible by arranging and attaching certain materials to the body. Second, a physical type was possible by representing body itself as the part of nature. Third, a symbolic type was possible by making body appearance as a some symbol based on artist's idea. Fourth, a sound type was possible by stimulating auditory hallucination using the nature of objects and sensing a sound. Fifth, an ecological type was possible by conveying the message of living things in nature to the body. Sixth, an interior type was possible by inducing indoor installation of works. Seventh, a poetic type was possible by making one feel a poetic inspiration expressed in nature using the mystery of the sea and a simple sequential pattern of floral leaves. Eighth, a drawing type was possible by adding artist's intentional hand with a pictorical technique. Ninth, a indigenous type was possible by reproducing South American indian's primitive style. The review of this study suggests that body painting works have been expressed in experimental and temporary arrangement like nature art in nature and can be applied according to nine types of nature art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.412-423
• /
• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.120-134
• /
• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.159-170
• /
• 2014

Recent concerns about the PFOA(perfluorooctanoic acid), have been increasing, which is generally applied in the water-repellent finishing process of textile products. It has been proven through animal testing to be harmful to humans, as possible carcinogens and neuro-toxic material. Thus U. S. Environmental Agency has gone as far as requiring the material to be eliminated in its entirety by 2015. As a viable alternative to this water-repellent finishing agent, the development of C6 product is gaining its popularity. The effects of PFOA finishing on the silk fabrics were examined, and we reviewed parameters of the needed process for optimizing appearance and functionality of silk fabrics treated with eco-friendly water-repellent finishing agent. Cross-linking agent affected the most on black color of reactive ink, among the physical properties. The contact angle reading was the highest in $8g/{\ell}$ of concentration for all fabrics. All the fabric specimens, subjected to the DTP and water repellent finishing, exhibited higher stiffness, where rayon specimen showed the highest, compared to the untreated specimens. The results may provide basic information leading to the development of value-added silk fabrics with water-repellency without excessive deterioration of the delicate appearance and inherent soft touch.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.260-266
• /
• 2022

Cellulose fiber is a material used in various fields. It is the most used type of fiber because of its excellent hygroscopicity and dyeability. Recently, as natural fiber materials have been highlighted due to the influence of eco-friendliness and well-being, bamboo fiber has become a commonly used eco-friendly fiber. Cellulose fibers are part of the -OH hydroxyl group, which means they are more chemically reactive than synthetic fibers. In this study, the cationization properties of bamboo-cotton blended fabrics cationized using CHPTAC (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) in the PDC (padding-drying-curing) method were investigated. Various characteristics according to cationization were studied through elemental analysis, FT-IR (fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy) analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, TGA (thermogravimetric) analysis, and SEM (scanning electron microscope) analysis. The nitrogen content of the cationized bamboo-cotton blended fabric increased with an increase in the concentration of the cationizing agent CHPTAC, and it was seen to be highly bound to cellulose molecules. As a result of the FT-IR analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics were seen to be typical cellulose. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As the cationization progressed, micropores appeared on the surface of the blended fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.2
• /
• pp.149-167
• /
• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.379-386
• /
• 2024

The purpose of this study was to pay attention to the increase in the frequency of expression of butterflies and insects, whose decrease in the number of individuals is symbolized as a measure of environmental pollution, among the various motifs of nature as we go through the COVID-19, when we realized the importance of nature. The scope of this study was limited to fashion collection fashion show photos and interview articles of online for fashion collections from 2019 to 2023. As a result of the study, 185 butterfly motivation fashion design appeared, and digital printing techniques were the most used as a type of plane expression method. Along with this, techniques such as quilting, embroidery, and beading have appeared a lot as techniques to express the planar motif of butterflies. As for the three-dimensional expression types, 3D printing, laser cutting, corsage techniques, and draping techniques showed similar proportion. It can be seen that the expressed butterfly motif had more realistic description the shape of the butterfly as it was than abstract expressions. In conclusion, it can be seen that the butterfly motif fashion design over the past five years contains a stronger message about the environment than the butterfly motif fashion in the past. It was confirmed that it is a motif with a great symbolic meaning that can convey an eco-friendly message beyond just the morphological beauty and colorful design elements of the butterfly.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.109-120
• /
• 2017

In the textile industry located in Gyeonggi-do, 85% of small-sized firms have less than 10 employees; in addition, the most of them are characterized by a vendor relying specialization system that conducts foundry from the vendor that managed marketing, textile design development, and quality checks according to unit stream. The breakaway of these vendors accelerated over the last 7 years; however, industry survival is at stake because the specialization system and orders have collapsed. The following four main policies must be implemented to overcome industry hardship. Policies have been derived from survey and analysis (present condition and trends) from industrial statistics and related policies in advanced and developing countries. First, a policy to promote cooperation between small-sized foundry unit-streams. Second, unification of the marketing support function with a textile design and development support system. Third, the introduction of policy support-management system customized according to developmental stages (tall process${\rightarrow}$fabric production${\rightarrow}$sales${\rightarrow}$clothing production sales). Fourth, foundation of a control tower that puts these tasks in a vehicle and runs them and the division of roles with the central government. We must propel main tasks to manifest the developmental potential (develop eco-friend dyeing and processing technologies, change to the young next CEO in business environment, and grow the of knit market) of the Gyeonggi Textile Industry in a short period to present a condition where these four main policies are running.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.606-612
• /
• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.