• Journal of the Korean Society of Floral Art and Design
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• no.44
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• pp.33-51
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• 2021

This thesis analyzes the formal characteristics of Dutch flower still life from the 17th century to the early 18th century and looks into the relevance with the Dutch art market from a macro perspective. The 17th Flower Still Life is to represent social hierarchy in that as the imported exotic, recherch items, the flowers were classified in the terms of their rarity and expensiveness. For this intriguing research, the subject is circumscribed to a vase of flowers, which is the quintessence of In the form of various Dutch Flower Still Life. Dutch society in the early 17th century was centered on the civilian class engaged in trade and commerce, which allowed them to purchase art works to show off their wealth, economic benefits and satisfaction of aesthetic tastes. Among them, the popularity of flower still life was related to the concentrated demand for rare flowers from the new continent. Accordingly, exact depiction and sense of the three dimensional manner were highly regarded in the early flower still life. For the tastes of the wealthy citizens who succeeded in business, the identity of flowers and the actual screen were considered as important. However, after the mid 17th century, economic growth in the Netherlands put an end, and the art market was also on a downward path. The demand class of flower still life has gotten farther away from the spirit of businessmen and has changed into city aristocrats who were stable rentiers. Their tastes laid emphasis on subjective sensibility, which meant that aristocratic, asymmetric, and dramatic chiaroscuro were preferred rather than being realistic. Furthermore, in the 18th century illusionistic realism was abandoned as an expression method of the planar characteristics and a new era in the floral still life was ushered with the reinforcement of decorative effect. From this perspective, it is not an exaggeration to say that romanticism, which is thought of as the beginning of Contemporary Art, originated from the aesthetic taste of Dutch civic culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• English & American cultural studies
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.81-106
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• 2017

Using recently emerging quantitative methods, this article provides a comparative study of the diachronic changes in the narrations of novel, history, and science from the early 18th-century to the 20th-century. To trace the narrative changes in different genres, this article discusses how text-mining methodology can be introduced in literary studies. We compared the traces of narrative in three genres—novel, history, and science—as a pilot study, with the three major grammatical elements of narrative: pronoun, subordinating conjunction, and action verbs in past tense. The results of data-mining show that the use of pronoun and action verb has increased in the genre of novel toward the $20^{th}$ century, while history and science has developed less story-like writing styles.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.51-58
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• 2023

This study was conducted to examine the architectural characteristics of Hak-seong Lee Family's Geun-jae-gong Historic House located in Seok-cheon-ri, Ung-chon-myeon, Ulju-gun, Ulsan. The house is said to have been rebuilt in the early 20th century after it was built in the 18th century, and now there are nine buildings left, including the An-chae, Sa-rang-chae, Sa-dang, storehouses and etc. This house is a large-scale house that is difficult to find similar cases in near region. The division of areas on each building is clear, and it is evaluated that it retains the typical characteristics of the head family in the late Joseon Dynasty in terms of its overall size and layout. In addition, the current wooden structure, which is said to have been rebuilt in the early 20th century, shows the composition method and space utilization method of the 3-Dori type upper structure, which have become more diverse since the late Joseon Dynasty. This has not been dealt with in the previous survey, and should be considered in detail through this paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.139-166
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• 1998

This dissertation is to help understanding about the emergence of active children's clothes in the latter part of the 18th century in England. In previous ages children had not been look-ed upon as children, but as incomplete and in-ferior men and women, the costume of children had not been distinguishable from that of their elders. The early eighteenth-century chil-d could not play in comfort because they dressed like their parents. But in the third quarther of the eighteenth century children became free from their con-comfortable and became active. English chil-dren's clothes was prevailing even in Europe as well. In the background of this liberation, there were many enlightened ideas, such as philosophers of enlightenment, doctors, writers, educators. Among these John Locke and Jean Jacque Rousseau criticized openly about rampant fashion which was distorting the body by corset and hoop. Rousseau was the one who wrote$\boxDr$Emile$\boxUl$and played the most important role to free children from an old fashioned idea, and emphasized to bring up children by the natural process of mental and physical development as human beings are a part of nature. Fashion reflects politic, economic, social, ideology, culture of the days and these factor function to create fashion which shows“Time Spirit”.Children's clothes, like those of their parents, follow the fashion, but with a difference, the form of which varies with the attitude to the child. Thus this dissertation was to study in relation with the background of the times in the latter part of 18th century in England and Rousseau's Naturalism in connection with the emergence of active children's clothes. The result is that diffusion of the idea of freedom and equality, the growth of bourgeoisie, the development of clothing and tex-tile industry have influenced to the emergence of active children's clothes. Also a great deal of middle and high class parents devoted to their children's education and was influenced by Rousseau's Naturalism. Specially the bourgeoisie who made their fortune by their own effort were eager to educate their achievement and business by their children through education. This factor influenced to the children's clothes as well.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.13 no.1 s.37
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• pp.71-81
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• 2004

The $18^{th}$ century's Industrial Revolution brought about influx of commerce, industry, and agricultural population into the urban areas, entering the $19^{th}$ century. Quality of rural communities declined, and the exploding population in the cities gave rise to various problems. 'Mietskaserne' Blockhousing was constructed by the 'Hobrechtplan', but led to social problems such as poor living conditions, insufficient sunshine due to overcrowding, slums due to incomplete urban infrastructure, epidemics, and so on. Starting in the early $20^{th}$ century, Berlin has driven forward a remodeling plan under the motto of 'critical reconstruction (kritische Rekonstruktion)'. It is performed in the place, which represents the vicissitudinous history of Berlin with site plans coexisting past with presence, using modern vocabulary of architectural forms. Reconstructing a city is a process which not only raises the economic value of each building consisting a city, but also a redevelopment process that brings out cultural value of an era. When a new era emerges buildings get reconstructed or rebuilt, and thereby form the identity of a city by reflecting its society, culture, politics, economy, and history. Old German architecture were not destroyed or rebuilt recklessly just by the fact that they are functionally or aesthetically outdated. Each building is treated as precious cultural heritage reflecting the history. This is how Berlin is being transformed today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.36
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• pp.313-334
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• 2003

Historically, hawking/falconry refer to the hunting for pheasants, birds and hares using a hawk. In spite of its long history, not so many studies were found and/or have been performed. Examining researches, hawking has been enjoyed solely by the royal families until the early Joseon Dynasty but it has been popularly spread among the people in the 18th century, emphasizing recreational factors of it. The researches, however, dealt only with the limited data published by the government while a diary, Swaemirok written by Oh Hi-Mun, an intellectual in the 16th century noted the realities and characteristics of hawking at that time. According to the diary, hawking has been spread all over the country in the 16th century and the people as well as the royal families enjoyed it. The hawking season has been continued for a year except for summertime trees and plants grow thick. For the hawking, they need to be permitted officially or under a tacit consent. In those days, beef and pork are very rare. A peasant acted as, therefore, an excellent alternative and was served up for a religious service. In view of the truth, it could be stated that peasant-hawking was important for recreational activities as well as for their living.