• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.31-50
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• 2023

Through this paper, all the provisions of the enforcement statutes stipulated in the Joseon's law code were investigated and major medical issues and interests in the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed. The characteristics of each period reviewed in the text are as follows. The early Joseon Dynasty is divided into three periods. First of all, Joseon filled the gap in the law with the active acceptance of the Ming Dynasty's law code, Daemyeongrul, which conformed to Confucian virtue. Next, the completion of Gyeonggukdaejeon was an opportunity to prepare the basis for Joseon's medical laws. Lastly, from the late 15th century to the 16th century, the existing medicine promotion measures and emphasis on hyangyak(domestic herb) continued. it can be said that Joseon's politicians needed a medical policy based on Confucian virtues and maintained state-led promotion policies, but on the other hand, there was no other alternative to try newly by reflecting the limitations and failures of the policy. The late Joseon Dynasty is also divided into three periods. First of all, the period from the late 16th century to the early 18th century was marked by the growth of families in technical positions. The era of King Yeongjo can be said to be the period of reorganization of medical related laws. Finally, the period after the late 18th century is a period of passive regulation and supplementation. Lastly, the revision of the actual medical law was not made or reflected in era of King Jeongjo. In the case of the early Joseon Dynasty, the policy shifted from state-led to families in technical positions. However, in the 19th century, the weakening of the royal authority led to the weakening of the overall administrative system of the country, and the pharmaceutical policy had to be limited.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.36
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• pp.97-122
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• 2014

During the Edo-period [江戶時代 1603-1867], Japan accepted the modern western science and culture while trading with Holland since 1609, and also through the influx of optical instruments in the $18^{th}$ century the culture of viewing pictures began to be developed. Especially, the peep-boxes and their pictures had been imported from China and Holland since the mid 1750s when they were flourished. The peep-box was rapidly and widely spread. Soon after, the peep-boxes and pictures had begun to be produced in Japan (megane [眼鏡] and megane-e [眼鏡繪]) since 1770s when the early visual culture settled down in Kyoto and Tokyo etc. The visual culture developed with the peep-box contains two remarkable factors in the cultural history of the $18^{th}$ century Japan. First, the peep-boxes became the popular device of visual entertainment, and opened the first phase of the modern visual culture before the advent of photography and cinema in the mid and end of the $19^{th}$ century. Secondly, the peep-box played a role of an educative media as a 'window to the unknown world' in the $18^{th}$ century Japan, by showing various pictures of many European cities. Through the peep-box pictures the 'western images' were spread and knowledges of Japanese about the west increased, although they were recognized just as 'Holland's images' without differentiation in each country.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.7-18
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• 2017

This research focuses on the cadastre and cartographic tradition regarding the representation of Rome that had lasted until the middle of 18th Century. Since the early period of Roman Republic until the early 18th Century, map was considered as a effective medium to record the status of urban facts and also a manifestation of changing perception of reality. These facts allow to diagnose social and conventional changes that had occurred in the field of representation techniques and methodologies derived from diverse intention and objective in elaboration of each map. Cartography also has affinity to architectural drawing as many categories of individuals are involved, clients, researchers, craftsmen, publisher and collectors. Fundamental task of documenting the contemporary physical reality was given to the map, however, as architects had practiced through the drawings, cartographers also reconstruct in subjective way specific buildings and urban aspects according to various needs and demands. As such, philology and imagination play important role as two constitute extreme poles in the evolution of the cadastre. Through analysis of paradigmatic examples in the genealogy of cartography of Rome, it was possible to understand the changing episteme that testify the mentality and custom in the field of visual representation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.939-951
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• 2007

This paper is about bridegroom's wedding robe, danryung(團領, a kind of official uniform) which can be found in the scenes of wedding ceremonies such as Chohaeng(初行, a ceremony that the bridegroom goes to the bride's house for wedding) and Hoehonrye(回婚禮, a ceremony that celebrates the $60^{th}$ wedding anniversary) in the genre paintings from the $18^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. In the documents of the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ centuries containing the wedding information of that period, danryung was described in various red tones ranging from Ja(紫, purple), Gang(絳 crimson), to Yeonhong(軟紅, pale pink). Similarly, red danryung(紅團領) was seen most frequently at the Chohaeng sights of the genre paintings. On the other hand, it was often depicted that the bridegrooms put on various colored danryungs at Hoehonrye. This was because bridegrooms at Hoehonrye wore their full dress according to their official ranks. In the genre paintings of the 18th century, all bridegrooms wore simple danryungs without hungbae(胸背, official insignia panel) except those in Hoehonrye painting where officials used hungbae. On the contrary, hungbae was discovered in the $19^{th}$ century Chohaeng paintings even though it was not precisely painted. This change of the bridegroom's danryung with hungbae attached was related to that of the official uniform system itself, in which black danryung with hungbae was exclusively used for officials. Afterwards it became the basis of the blue danryung of the present day.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2012

After disastrous foreign invasions in 1592 and 1636, Chosun lost most of the traditional mathematical works and needed to revive its mathematics. The new calendar system, ShiXianLi(時憲曆, 1645), was brought into Chosun in the same year. In order to understand the system, Chosun imported books related to western mathematics. For the traditional mathematics, Kim Si Jin(金始振, 1618-1667) republished SuanXue QiMeng(算學啓蒙, 1299) in 1660. We discuss the works by two great mathematicians of early 18th century, Cho Tae Gu(趙泰耉, 1660-1723) and Hong Jung Ha(洪正夏, 1684-?) and then conclude that Cho's JuSeoGwanGyun(籌 書管見) and Hong's GuIlJib(九一集) became a real breakthrough for the second half of the history of Chosun mathematics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.90-106
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• 2013

This study investigated the development of eyeglasses and design transition in materials and types through literature survey. The scope of this study on the basis of the 15th century, for this study survey reaches from the 15th century to modern. The result of this study were as follows. Real magnifying glasses was first mentioned by the Arab physicist al-Hazen who was famous of his treatise on optics. The oldest documents which explicitly refer to the art of making lenses for eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were the Venetian artisans of 1300. In the 15th century someone thought to remedy the unstability of glasses by securing the bridge on the forehead. But it was only in the 17th century that someone contrived to stabilize the frame by strapping it on the face by means of fine cords that reached behind the ears. Eventually in the early years of the 18th century the English optician Edward Scarlett invented the rigid earpieces which solved once and for all the problem of holding the eyeglasses firmly in place. In the 19th century, eyeglasses' fashion were monocle and pince-nez. In the 20th century, various lenses and frames were appeared. Therefore eyeglasses to correct defective sight, sun-glasses, as well as a most succesful item among modern fashion accessories.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.