• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.263-271
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with Humulus japonicus (Hwansam) extract which is a kind of weeds that grows wild in the suburbs. In the research, the general extract method was conducted with the extract from fresh herb of root-removed Humulus japonicus while we investigated the optimal dyeing conditions and dyeability depending on the changes of the kind of mordants, methods and temperature. The functional properties such as antibacterial activities, deodorization and UV protection were also reviewed. The ideal output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and methods, it was found that among four mordants of $SnCl_2$, $AlK(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, and $FeSO_4$ post-mordanting with $FeSO_4$ showed the best result. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to light was as good as 3 while to perspiration was good at 4-5 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 99% deodorization rate, 98% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.10-20
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. Three kinds of leaf powder colorants were prepared by freeze drying method with or without deep freezing as pre-treatment: one powder colorant from fresh leaf juice with deep freezing; two kinds of powder colorant from fresh leaves with and without deep freezing. Their dyeing properties and storage stabilities were studied and compared with the traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. The presence of indigo in the powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. They showed absorption peak at 602nm which was same with indigo absorption peak. Dyeing was done at low temperature around 6$^{\circ}C$. All three powder colorants produced B colors on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants from leaves gave higher color strength than the powder from leaf juice. The powder colorant prepared from leaves with deep freezing was the most stable for long term storage as its color and color strength were not changed after 360 days. So, this was used for further dyeing to study the effects of concentration and repeat dyeing on color strength and colorfastness. Fastnesses to dry cleaning and rubbing were fairly good above 4 rating. Further study is needed to improve light fastness. It was concluded that the leaf powder colorant with deep freezing could be used as a substitute for traditional juice extract dyeing at all seasons.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.669-676
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• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.65-73
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• 1986

These studies are carried out to improve silk availability for anticrease by useing methacrylate monomer polymerization method with in silk fiber. For this purpose, degree of anticrease, stiffness and shrinkage of various silk fabrics, included finish or not, after repeat of washings and polyster fabric was compared as standard. The adopted samples are ; 1. Polyester, Georgette, Woven density…90cm-85g/m 2. Silk, Twill, Degumed, Light, Woven density…90cm-90g/m 3. Silk, Twill, Degumed, Heavy, Woven density…90cm-200g/m 4. Silk, Stain, Degumed, Light, Woven density…90cm-90g/m The reached results are as followings. 1. The results of improving on anticrease by the finished method were about ten per cent increase against their original samples. 2. The light density silks showed satisfactory improve for anticrease, but the heavy one remained as rather poor condition. 3. The results for degree of textile stiffness were investigated to make sure reserve their textile feeling and observed to be good condition upon the finish work. 4. Textile shrinkage after the repeat of soap wash was investigated on indivisual test sample and silk fabrics showed more shrinkage than polyester which it seemed to be tentering shrinkage druning their general finishing processes. 5. The investigation showed that anticrease, stiffness and shrinkage of the sample textile were more or less deteriorated regardless silk or polyester by the repeat of washings. These matters are considered that such results were obtained because of the fiber fatigue nature. 6. The report reached that silk textiles should be used by dry cleaning methed after finish of any resin finish to reserve their improved anticrease nature.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.89-94
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• 2017

Background: The purpose of improving the quality of oriental medicinal herbs is to contribute to the improvement of the income of farm. The present study investigated the effect of reasonable drying methods, different storage conditions and packageing materials on quality and stability of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi and for developing GAP (good agricultural practice) guide book. Methods and Results: Three methods of drying Scutellaria baicalensis roots produced over two years were used to estimate loss rate owing to drying, storage, and packaging. The methods of drying were categorized into natural drying (36 - 60 h by sunshine), drying with heat dryer (2 - 10 h), or drying with gas bulk dryer (2 - 10 h). After cleaning, and initial drying for a few days under controlled temperature conditions, the second phase of drying was carried out at 35, 45 and $55^{\circ}C$. Changes in hunter color values and quality under the two studied storage treatments (at $20^{\circ}C$ indoors and at $4^{\circ}C$ in a refigerator) were evaluated. Storage period for 60, 120, and 180 days in three packaging materials, PE (polyethylene package), PP (polypropylene gunnysack), and WP (watertight packing paper) were studied. Conclusions: Initial cleaning, reasonable gas drying and hot air drying, and drying in an oven at 35 and $45^{\circ}C$ after cutting the roots resulted in the lowest loss rates in S. Baicalensis root. Hunter color valuse indicated that stroage of dry roots at room temperature was better than PP packaging, and that cold stroage was better than PE packaging for long-term stability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

The aim of study was to elucidate dyeability and antimicrobial and antifungal activity of silk fabrics dyed with Sophora Radix extracts according to different mordants. Dyes were extracted from Sophora Radix using ethanol. Then, silk fabrics were dyed with extracts two times by post-mordanting method in which the extract was 60%(owf), the mordant was 3%(owf), L.R was 1:20, the temperature was $60~60^\circ{C}$, the time of dyeing was 60min., and the time of mordanting was 60min. The dyeability was evaluated by surface color, K/S values and durability of dye. The skin microorganisms used in this study was S. sureus, B. subtilis, S. epidermidis, P. acnes, P. aeruginosa, E coli, A. niger, C. albicans and T. mentatrophytes. The results are as follows; 1. When mordants were added, K/S value of silk dyed was not improved much and surface color was 2.2Y to 8.8Y in H(hue) value which indicated greenish yellow to raddish yellow 2. The color fastness tests to light, perspiration, dry-cleaning, rubbing, and stain fabric washing show 4~5th degree which were valuated excellent. The color fastness to fade washing was improved to 3~4th degree by addition of $K_2CrO_7$ mordants. 3. Antibacterial activity of silk dyed using no-mordant as well as mordants was excellent on S. aureus, B. subtilis, S.epidermidis and P.acnes, but showed poor antibacterial activities on P.aeruginosa and E.coli such as gram negative baterials 4. Antifungal activity of silk dyed with ethanol extracts was good on A.niger, C.candida and T.mentagrophytes. Especially, on T. mentagrophytes there was no growth of fungus during 72 gous in silk dyed mordanting with $SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O$.

• Molecular & Cellular Toxicology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.99-105
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• 2005

Perchloroethylene (tetrachloroethylene, PCE), a dry cleaning and degreasing solvent, can enter ground-water through accidental leak or spills. PCE can be degraded to trichloroethylene (TCE), 1, 1-dichloroethylene (DCE) and vinyl chloride (VC) as potential bio-product. These compounds have been reported that they can cause clinical diseases and cytotoxicity. However, only a little genotoxic information of these compounds has been known. In this study, we investigated DNA single strand breaks of PCE, TCE, DCE and VC by single cell gel electrophoresis assay, (comet assay) which is a sensitive, reliable and rapid method for DNA single strand breaks with mouse lymphoma L5178Y cells. From these results, $37.5\;{\mu}g/ml$ of PCE, $189\;{\mu}g/ml$ of TCE and $56.4\;{\mu}g/ml$ of DCE were revealed significant DNA damages in the absence of S-9 metabolic activation system meaning direct-acting mutagen. And in the presence of S-9 metabolic activation system, $41.5\;{\mu}g/ml$ of PCE, $328.7\;{\mu}g/ml$ of TCE and $949\;{\mu}g/ml$ of DCE were induced significant DNA damage. In the case of VC, it was revealed a significant DNA damage in the presence of S-9 metabolic activation system. Therefore, we suggest that chloroethylene compounds (PCE, TCE, DCE and VC) may be induced the DNA damage in a mammalian cell.