• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.228-247
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• 2023

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.16-28
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the content and changes of modern Korean men's wear advertisement from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazines and pictorials. Research problems were as follows.; First, analyze the types and their units of measurement in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Second, examine the differences of quantitative change in men's fashion advertisements according to each period. The total 857 advertisements were selected from Shin Dong-A, Joongang Magazine, and Bokjangwolbo from 1972 to 1998. For analyze the result, frequency analysis and $x^2$-test were used. Results were as follows. First, through the review of literatures and pre-tests, 6 units of measurement were identified. They were product type(formal wear, casual wear, sports wear, dress shirts, accessory, inner wear, fabric and the others), brand type(national brand, licensed brand, imported brand, others), appeal type(image, product, others), representation type(photograph, illustration, others), medium type(man, product, others), and color type of advertisement(black & white picture, color picture). Second, for the types of advertisements, formal wear, national brand, image appeal, figure medium, photograph for presentation and color picture are the most frequently shown in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Third, for product, more accessory advertisements were found than the clothing in the 60s and the 70s, and casual wear advertisements in the 80s and formal wear advertisements in the 90s were dominated. National brand type was dominant through all four period. Product appeal type in the 60s and the 70s and image appeal type in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. For medium, product type in the 60s and the 70s and figure type in the 80s and the 90s were dominated. Black & white picture in the 60s and the 70s and color picture in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. Lastly, photograph was the most frequently used for presentation type through all periods.