• 제목/요약/키워드: Draping and flat pattern

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Design Analysis and Apparel Patternmaking of Lingerie Look (란제리룩의 디자인 분석 및 실물 패턴제작)

  • Yoon, Jin-Ah;Lee, Myoung-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.107
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    • pp.152-166
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

Classification of Upper Torso Somatotype for the Construction of Middle-Aged Women's Clothing (중년여성의 의복구성을 위한 상반신 체형분류)

  • 김혜경;김순자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.1027-1039
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    • 1995
  • Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.

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Analysis of Curriculum in the Field of Clothing Construction Fashion Related Courses -Focusing on Four-year Domestic University- (패션 관련 학과 의복구성분야 교육과정 현황분석 -국내 4년제 대학을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, KyungAe;Cho, KyeongSook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.41 no.2
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    • pp.242-253
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    • 2017
  • We selected 81 universities (39.1%) for research and close analysis to analyze the current availability of courses in the field of clothing construction at four-year domestic universities. The results of the analysis shows that curriculum is currently composed of theoretical and practical courses that continue to be developed in diverse areas of study. Despite having classes with underlying similarities and differences, research shows that the course curriculum is constructed systematically with both theory and practice at each stage. Distribution of curriculum in the field of clothing construction were organized and analyzed by similar courses in 4 larger groupings and 9 sub-groups. Analysis of the large groupings showed that sewing courses (19.8%), pattern development courses (41.0%), advanced sewing courses (14.1%), and miscellaneous courses (26.1%) were established. Analysis of the sub-groups showed that basic theory and sewing courses (3.6%), sewing courses (16.1%), flat pattern courses (17.9%), draping pattern courses (14.6%), pattern CAD courses (7.3%), tailoring and advanced sewing courses (8.5%), scientific sewing and apparel production processing courses (1.4%), special sewing courses (3.9%), and miscellaneous and new subject courses (26.1%) were established. Overall analysis of the organization distribution was conducted in the order of pattern development (39.9%), miscellaneous & new subject (26.1%), basic theory and sewing (19.8%), and advanced sewing (14.0%). Field analysis from various angles indicates that pattern development, new subject courses, and miscellaneous courses had a relatively higher proportion than other major courses. From this it can be inferred that this trend is an effort to develop individuals to adapt to a rapidly changing fashion industry and environment. The composition of courses also shows great advancement towards diversification and course development. However, there is still insufficient exchange between industrial and education sites. As active exchange continue to be demanded, classification standards for new subject courses and titles of such studies have become unclear and have reached limitations.