• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.68-77
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• 2002

In this study, based on Choi, Jong Rim's script (2000), the main characters' stage costume designs were presented with 15 illustrated pieces in terms of compounding the images of Korea and West. I considerered the main characters' social status and personality by each act and scene, as well as the correlation of the stage costume's minor theme, color and material. In expressing the stage costume, this study has chosen the formational method of the comparative design dimensions between costumes in 1650s Joseon and baroque period and used the joinder of flat pattern and draping in various parts of the costumes.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.109-124
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• 2005

The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권4호
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• pp.105-113
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of scuba diving suits for local men in their thirties by using 3D body-scanned data. It is widely acknowledged that draping method is more suitable than flat pattern for body shape as most scuba diving suits in the market are designed to fit the body tightly in a single piece with sleeves and legs. A dummy for this study was made based on men's standard clothing sizes in 30's which was derived from data of 2004 Size Korea. Accordingly, the basic body block was built upon through draping method. Next, a scuba diving suit was made from neoprene, followed by fit and the clothing pressure tests in order to evaluate the diving suit's functionality and comfort. The results of the fit test had high points of 4.33 in majority parts except armhole and crotch ones. In comparison of clothing pressure between wearer and dummy, the clothing pressure of wearer was indicated relatively low in most parts other than armhole and knee, resulting from cushion function of skin and muscle and high stretch of fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.159-170
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• 2006

This study aims to examine the expressive properties of contemporary corset, and to develop designs and produce patterns for corset look clothes. Through these courses, it develops a pattern that may all meet the exactness, functionality and aesthetic aspects of a pattern and provides materials that may help create a corset look design in the course of actuallymaking a garment. Based on the elements mentioned above, a total of three (3) real works were developed and their patterns were created. The patterns include two (2) flat patterns and one (1) patterns using the draping method. The results found in the course of creating works and patterns are as follows: With new corset look designs, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of the body In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becoming outerwear may be a new idea in dress designing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.80-93
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to recognize about lingerie company's education and pattern-making actual conditions. This study used a questionnaire method. Respondent of survey is designers who work in exist lingerie company. The collected data were statistically processed using SPSS(Statistical Package for Social Science) for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Most of lingerie designers educated lingerie design, pattern and textiles etc. after entering a company and satisfaction 57.3% about education has satisfaction of intergrade. 2. Designer's 87.8% has satisfaction more than intergrade about own pattern-making technology and work career is high, satisfaction about pattern-making technology is high. 3. Correlation was expose that is in lingerie education availability and optimum level arrival period of pattern-making ability before entering a company. In case take lingerie education before entering a comany, thought that optimum level arrival period of pattern-making ability is shorter. 4. Most of lingerie company designers used flat pattern-making method and draping method. 5. There is correlation between work career and using the basic pattern. Work career was expose that make and use only own basic pattern in case is more than 3 years. 6. Contents about deepening pattern-making technology are most by 92.2% to contents of lingerie reeducation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권11호
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• pp.1399-1408
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• 2011

This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of clothing construction to provide some fundamental information for developing more appropriate educational courses and to activate the fashion business. A total of 82 different departments related to fashion and apparel were selected from four-year domestic universities and the curricula recently posted on their internet websites were analyzed by descriptive statistics. More than half (53.7%) of the 82 departments were offering classes in the clothing construction field for 3 credits and 4 class hours. College affiliation of the departments that offered curricula in the clothing construction field was classified into 5 categories: the arts (34), human ecology (22), natural sciences (14), humanities/culture (9), and others (3). Human ecology category showed the highest results in the average class hours (3.9), the number of classes in the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes in the clothing construction field out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). All 82 departments were classified into 3 categories of: fashion design (32), clothing (28), and fashion business (22). The clothing category showed the highest results in the average credits (2.8), class hours (3.8), the number of classes offered by the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes that offer clothing construction education out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). The educational contents of clothing construction area were classified into 8 different categories of: basic theory and sewing, clothing construction, flat pattern, draping, tailoring and advanced clothing construction, pattern CAD, sewing science and apparel manufacturing process, and clothing construction for special needs. Among these categories, the draping category constituted 21.7% as the largest part. In addition, the distribution of classes offered by 4 academic years were analyzed into 8 different categories.