• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.272-278
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to research about Dobby weave design using Computer-Aided Weaving System. For performing this design study, first, it was researched the characteristics of the classified woven fabrics, weaving processing, structure of Dobby loom, and Computer-Aided Dobby Weaving system theoretically. To develop Dobby woven design, Patternland Weave Simulator(U.S.A) for computer weave system was used. Among the developed Dobby woven designs by computer weaving system, mainly three of them were selected and woven into Dobby loom. To see the visual image of the fabric end-use, some of the scanned Dobby fabrics were simulated to the three-dimensional virtual images by Alias CAD system. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. Before the step of weaving Dobby fabrics on the woven design works, Computer-Aided Weaving system can be done very easily to apply the design step of Dobby woven fabrics, specially in case of the complicated woven structure. Also the usage of the simulation CAD system in visual image of the final products, ultimately can be saved cost and developed the higher value-added goods in more response to consumer demands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.43-55
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• 2010

The major advantages to use CAD System are that it reduce time and effort to manufacture products, and also can demonstrate the condition of the final product prior to the actual manufacturing process of the selected design using the simulation programs in CAD system. Specially in weave design, for use as Computer-Aided Weaving system, the complicated Dobby weave can figured out easily through calculating the complex weave plans of multi shafts. As to one of dobby weave structures, Supplementary warp is the warp threads which are in addition to the regular warps of the woven fabrics, and used for decorating the band or expressing some patterns. The purpose of this study is to research the weave design of Supplementary warp using Computer-Aided Weaving system, which is dobby weave design program of Weave Point. For performing this design study, it was researched the classified woven fabrics depending upon weaving processing, Computer-Aided Weaving system, and the characteristic of Supplementary warp fabrics. On the basis of the theoretical research, Supplementary warp was worked for the 24-shafts AVL computer dobby loom that applied to the various patterned images. The design work was done by Weave Point program of dobby weave, and simulated to fabrics before woven into the computer dobby loom. To see the visual images of fashion items, these simulated bobby fabrics were processed by three-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD system. All the patterns of the Supplementary warp in this study could be applied for decorating the fashion clothing and accessories.

• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.81-92
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• 2002

Through network draft, it′s possible to describe curve draft with main motive in a lobby loom and to fulfill draft design more conveniently thanks to the development of computer device. Network draft was introduced by Alice Schlein, who is an American weaving artist, and I had ever published research paper on "The unfolding and development of network draft using computer dobby system" . The purpose of the next study was to develop the design of network draft while do make a design network draft in a dobby loom with 16 shafts, and could reach follow conclusion as a result of designing a variety of drafts. The initial of 4-end in a loom with 16 shafts was a basic condition to describe more perfect shape in comparison with draft in 8 shafts through the development of network. The development of draft line was essential to deride the pattern of fabric, and the pattern of draft is decided according to selecting key peg plan. Thereby, could get a variety of draft patterns derive from mix key peg plan with initial selected by developing the kind of draft line and applying diverse key peg plan. As for the variation and diversification of draft line, the shape of patters varied depending col the curve extent and connectivity of draft line and the size of curve. The pattern of network draft can be changed infinitely by free round curve of draft line. In addition, a variety of draft designs shall be developed by increasing the number of shaft, enlarging the scale of draft line, and developing more creative draft line.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1987.10b
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• pp.324-328
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• 1987

In this study a computer-aided textile pattern design system is implemented and a control methodology of a dobby motion is studied. The described system allows the user to design various weave patterns through graphic editor and to simulate weaving by displaying the dummy weaving process on the monitor. In addition, if the yarn colors are specified it is also possible to analyze color weaves. Thus it can replace effectively a conventional. design tool, a design paper. The main features of the system are to design weave patterns, to show weaving effect, and to make lifting plan for the dobby motion control. In dobby motion control, the mechanical. control method conventionally used is not adequate for the loom which is linked with the computer-aided textile pattern design system, so an electromagnetic control method is proposed.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.279-292
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• 2001

The network drafting is introduced by american weaver Alice schlein, that is not a new weave, but a way of exploring old structures and driving them a new design. It was evident that larger scale pattern design produced on computer dobby-that is a loom without a jacquard mechanism, draw harness, or other extra patterning devices. Therefore, this study explored that developing and new weave design through the processing of network drafting In give a guide based on it In this process, the results of this study were as follow. A network is a collection of legal threading position that is constructed from a building block, called an "initial" which is the smallest identifiable unit of the threading. The process of network drafting produces large-scale designs without the chunky look of block weaves in addition In infinite potential variation on a singles threading through changes in tie-ups and dobby peg plan. It can get various new drafting through using of isolated, connected, disconnected pattern line.