• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.116-122
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.115-123
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• 2008

In the present study, a three dimensional hydrodynamic characteristics around the fully submerged dual breakwaters with a sand beach has been investigated numerically using a 3-D numerical scheme, which can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulence model and is able to consider wave-structure-seabed interaction in 3-dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), recently developed by Hur and Lee (2007). Based on the numerical experiments, strong vortices can be generated fore and aft edges of the structures, and propagate lee sides. Thus relatively large circulation flows are occurred around submerged breakwaters. The 3-D flow hydrodynamic characteristics have been examined by mean flows and mean vortices for various x-y, x-z sections and y-z layers. Wave height distribution and wave set-up around and over submerged breakwaters, and breaking point migration toward shore side is discussed in detail.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.25-47
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• 2020

A study of the wave conditions for the Asabo offshore location at the Qua Iboe oil field in Eastern Nigeria has been carried out. Statistical analysis was applied to three (3) years of data comprising spectral periods, Tp and significant wave heights, H_s. The data was divided into two (2); data from October to April represents one set of data and data from May to September represents another set of data. The results were compared with similar studies at other locations offshore of West Africa. It was found that there is an absence of direct swellwaves from the Southern Ocean reaching the location under study (the Asabo site). This work suggests that the wave system is largely emanating from the North Atlantic storms. The presence of numerous islands near the Asabo location shields the site from effects of storms from south west and therefore swells from the Southern Ocean. It is noted that the local wind has little or no contribution. An H_s maximum of 2 m is noted at the Asabo offshore location. It is found that the Weibull distribution best describes the wave distribution at Asabo. Thus, the Weibull distribution is suggested to be adequate for long term prediction of extreme waves needed for offshore design and operations at this location.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.342-354
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• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.120-127
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• 2012

Exploratory data analysis was carried out by using the long-term wave climate data in Sokcho coastal zone. The main features found in this study are as follows. The coefficient of variations on the wave height and period are about 0.11 and 0.02, respectively. It also shows that the annual components of the wave height and period are dominant and their amplitudes are 0.24 m and 0.56 seconds, respectively. The amount of intra-annual variation range is about two times greater than that of the inter-annual variation range. The distribution shapes of the wave data are very similar to the log-normal and GEV(generalized extreme value) functions. However, the goodness-of-fit tests based on the KS test show as "rejected" for all suggested density functions. Then, the structure of the timeseries wave height data is roughly estimated as AR(3) model. Based on the wave duration results, it is clearly shown that the continuous and maximum duration is decreased as a power function shape and the total duration is exponentially decreased. Meanwhile, the environment of the Sokcho coastal zone is classified as a wave-dominated environment.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

When we design coastal and harbol facilities deepwater design wave and wind speed are the important design parameters. Especially, the analysis of these informations is a vital step for the point of disaster prevention. In this study, we made and an extreme value analysis using a series of deep water significant wave data arranged in the 16 direction and supplied by KORDI real-time wave information system ,and the wind data gained from Wan-Do whether Station 1978-2003. The probability distributions considered in this characteristic analysis were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-Pearson Type III, the Normal, the Lognormal, and the Gamma distribution. The parameter for each distribution was estimated by three methods, i.e. the method of moments, the maximum likelihood, and the method of probability weight moments. Furthermore, probability distributions for the extreme data had been selected by using Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov test within significant level of 5%, i,e. 95% reliance level. From this study we found that Gumbel distribution is the most proper model for the deep water design wave height off the southwest coast of Korea. However the result shows that the proper distribution made for the selected site is varied in each extreme data set.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 1979

This paper concerns the receding of the eastern coastline of Korean peninsula at a macroscopic point of view, the result is as following. 1. Eastern coast is gradually developed from maturity stage to full maturity stage. 2. The coastline recession due to sea level rise is amounted to the receding distance, x=0.045 m per yr. 3. The author proposes another classification from the new view point, which is classified by comparing quantities between river supplying sediment loads, and the littoral drifting due to wave actions. According this, eastern coast is receding(Type Q-A), and we could find it's geomorphological characteristics. 4. The general piofile of eastern coast sand beach is erosional storm profile(Type I) which accompany offshore bar. 5. From the wave measuring data of eastern coast(Hoopo port), I can derive the linear regression line of the exceedance probability of wave height from the log-normal distribution. $z=O. 113+4.335 log_lo H, r=0.983.$ Above equation made it possible to estimate $\omega[=P(H>H_c)]for the effective wave height H_c=2. Om4, 4. Om and their corresponding values are considerable (7.8%, 0.3%) 6. Eastern coastline certainly have the tendency of erosive and receding, owing to the sea level rise, poor sediment source and effective wave actions. It's very desirable to survey coastline evolution for a long time systematically, in order to make more elaborate diagnosis.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.2343-2350
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• 2013

The wave height distributions in front of a vertically perforated wall structures for obliquely incident uni-directional irregular waves are mainly investigated by using 3D hydraulic experiments. The difference and similarity of wave propagation along the plain and perforated wall structures are investigated and particularly the effects of side walls in chamber and relative chamber width are analyzed. This study shows that the wave height distribution patterns for normalized wave heights in front of structure is significantly different between the plain and perforated wall structures, and the side wall in the chamber suppresses the growth of waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.336-344
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• 2007

A method is developed to evaluate partial safety factors for armor units, by which uncertainties of random variables in reliability function as well as wave height distribution with service periods could take into account straightforwardly. It is found that partial safety factors for resistance and wave height are correctly increased with improving target levels on failure of coastal structures at the same return and service periods. Therefore, it nay be possible to determine design variables through the same processes as those of deterministic method by using the partial safety factors for resistance and wave height evaluated in this paper, since uncertainties of random variables and the effects of service periods and target probability failure are directly considered in the processes of evaluation of partial safety factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.115-124
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• 1999

The interaction of weak normal shock wave with turbulent boundary layer in a supersonic nozzle was investigated experimentally by wall static pressure measurements and by schlieren optical observations. The lime-mean flow in the interaction region was classified into four patterns according to the ratio of the pressure $p_k$ at the first kink point in the pressure distribution of the interaction region to the pressure $p_1$ just upstream of the shock. It is shown for any flow pattern that the wall static pressure rise near the shock foot can be described by the "free interaction" which is defined by Chapman et al. The ratio of the triple point height $h_t$ of the bifurcated shock to the undisturbed boundary layer thickness ${\delta}_1$ upstream of the interaction increases with the upstream Mach number $M_1$, and for a fixed $M_1$, the normalized triple point height $h_t/{\delta}_1$ decreases with increasing ${\delta}_1/h$, where h is the duct half-height.