• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.734-742
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• 2011

This study has been undertaken as a basic research for automatic pattern design for baseball uniforms manufactured under custom-MTM system, propose building up of a system whereby various partial patterns are combined under an automatic design system and develop a multi-combination type pattern searching algorithm which allows development of a various designs. As a result of this, type classification based on pattern design elements includes side, open, collar, facing and panel type. Design have been divided into coarse classification ranging from level 1 to 7 according to pattern design elements, based on a design distribution chart. Out of 7 such levels, 3 major types determining design which are, more specifically, level 1 sleeve type, level 2 open type and level 3 collar type, have been taken and combined to determine a total of 12 types to be used for design classification codes. Respective name of style and patterns have been coded using alphabet and numerals. Totally, pattern searching algorithm of multi-combination type has been developed whereby combination of patterns belonging to a specific style can be retrieved automatically once that style name is designated on the automatic pattern design system.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of fashion innovativeness and national identity on Korean clothing benefits sought, style preferences, and purchase intention. The subjects were 765 male and female consumers who were residents in Seoul. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test, and chi-square test. The results were as follows. There were five Korean clothing benefits sought: impression improvement/fashion orientation, national pride, individuality, brand, and comfort. Korean style preferences had four factors of daring/showy, active/simple, elegant, and sophisticated images. The subjects were categorized into three groups by fashion innovativeness and national indentity. The three groups were different in regard to Korean clothing benefits sought, Korean style preferences, and purchase intention. For example, the consumers who had a high fashion innovativeness sought benefits of impression improvement, individuality, and brand name. Also, they preferred daring/showy, elegant, and sophisticated images. In the meanwhile the consumers who had a high national identity sought benefits of national pride, comfort, and impression improvement. Also, they preferred an active/simple style and had an intention to purchase the clothing with Korean image.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.134-147
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• 2006

As modern society set in, lifestyle has been changing largely; leisure activity has been expanded and family activity became important. Changes in the lifestyle caused big changes even in fashion industry. Instead of suits, coordination using clothes easy to wear was extended and the need of family look was also raised. Despite the need and marketability of family look, however, family look style clothes depend on the manufacture by orders on the Internet and few brands have been developed unlike the activation of family restaurants or family fast-food restaurants. Thus, this study examined design of family look style T-shirts applying Korean image as one of measures to activate fashion brands of family look. This study purposed to find out self-conceit and identification of our culture by recreating family look as cultural tourism products applying Korean traditional patchwork wrapping-clothes and natural dying techniques and to globalize the products as high value-added ones containing differentiated Korea-style originality. In particular, as Interest in natural dying has been raised because of serious environmental problems and extension of wellbeing culture, products applying natural dying have been developed actively. At this point of time, the development of family look style T-shirts applying natural dying will contribute largely to planning globalization of our brands by developing products with more polished and globalized design.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2013

This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.123-133
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• 2004

To investigate the factors that contribute to consumer satisfaction with the purchase of clothing, questionnaires were distributed and then consumer groups were classified according to their fashion life style on the internet shopping. The results were as follows: 1. Consumers groups were classified into trendy, Indifferent, brand inclined, conservative, and practicality- minded group by the fashion life style of the internet users. 2. From the analysis of the satisfaction factors on the internet clothing shopping, the factors were product variety, shopping convenience, customer service, confidence in order filling. 3. The most important consumer satisfaction factors according to the fashion life style were as follows: the trendy group considered the variety of clothing design most important. As for the Indifferent group, the tn, diversified collection of the products, and the convenience of unlimited time and space access that the internet site provided, were highly appreciated. With regard to the brand-inclined group, the presentation of product information and the convenience of unlimited time and space factors were highly appreciated. For the conservative group, the time and space factor were highly regarded, As far as the practicality-minded group was concerned, product price and size, the convenience of unlimited time and space access, and punctual delivery schedule were focused.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.280-291
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• 2004

Apparel goods are classified by many criteria for ease of merchandising implementation. Fashion and basic goods are also an oucome oi classification. Previous studies pnvide some criteria by which apparel products can be classified into fushion and basic goods. Among those ciiteria, seasonality, fashionability, clothing types, complexity in pnduction, simplicity of style, pioducuon volume, degree of style change by season, could be listed. This study, first explored how apparel merchandisers and designers define fashion and basic goods in relation with those criteria. Definitions of fashion and basic goods were explored in terms of design elements (i.e., style, color, material), production volume, sales ratio, proportion in product assortment, and contribution to profit. The study adopted a qualitative approach by use of eighteen infepth interviews with menhandisers and designers. Six were from women＇s wear brand, Seven from men＇s wear brand, and 5 from casual wear brand. All the interviewees agreed that they are using the classification of basic vs. fashion goods. However, they are using diverse terms to indicate the basic and fashion goods. The interviewees defined each group based on its contribution to total sales or profit complexity in design, production volume, and style change by season. Basic goods had a higher level of production quantity, contribute more to profit simpler design, and less style change by season than fashion goods.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.653-662
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• 2009

The past Romanticism, which emphasized loveful, womanish property, has changed into new-concept Romanticism as it was harmonized with various emotional cultures and trends in the 21st century. New-concept romanticism is found in various fields ranging from personality, diversity and discrimination to emotion. It is appearing as a new style searching for taste as it is mixed and matched with other fields. In fashion, Romanticism and mix-and-match trend provide womanish feeling through the match with romantic chiffon, high-waisted pants and cashmere cardigan and show modern emotion through vest and short blazer. Therefore, it is necessary to reconsider the method to analyze and express fashion emotion style on the basis of mix-and-match trend of Romanticism. The purpose of this study is to analyze how Romanticism is expressed in the mix and match with other emotional style, predict direction of Romanticism style and establish the ground to find changing fashion trend accurately. The researcher expects that design development will be focused on the fashion, which is more various and characteristic and search for convenient, healthy life, on the basis of the analysis on mix and match shown in Romanticism fashion of the study. The researcher tried to provide the base of design development and assist design activation by using mix and match, which can create various new styles, accurately and understanding and predicting the fashion trend of the 21st century.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

Clothes show not just the different social status of people, but the ideology and value of former society through pattern, colour, materials, shapes, etc. The purpose of this article is to fill the academic blank of this part by researching the pattern of fabric design in Jing Pai(Beiing style) and Hai Pai(Shanghai style) cheong-sam during the period of the Republic of China. The contrastive analysis of regional pattern between Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam expect to provide the theoretical basis for the former fashion designers and scholars. There are three approaches in the article: Data collection method, comparison method and Combining theory with practice method as film. Regarding components of pattern, both Jing Pai and Hai Pai cheong-sam have mostly single or composite pattern like plants. Further the most of Jing Pai cheong-sam pattern is traditional flower pattern. But Haipai cheong-sam patterns have some western flower pattern. Beside that, it have some geometry pattern. Regarding arrangement of the pattern, both cheong-sams have scattered dot style, the border style, and pictures style. But continuous type of Jing Pai cheong-sam is less while Hai Pai cheong-sam is the most. Comparing Jing Pai cheong-sam color of patterns in "Moment in Peking" is unadorned and types are simple as chinese traditional clothes; However, "In the Mood for Love" introduces us various material colors, new types of patterns and extraneous characteristic geometry patterns of Hai Pai cheong-sam. Generally speaking, the main characteristic of Jing Pai cheong-sam is traditional and conservatism. It keeps Chinese traditional pattern and culture to the most extent. However, Hai Pai cheong-sam are confluent and open with absorbed external culture and techniques which are endowed new artistic color.