• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.1008-1014
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• 2020

Aiming at the defect detection quality of denim fabric, this paper designs an improved algorithm based on the optimized Gabor filter. Firstly, we propose an improved defect detection algorithm of jean fabric based on the maximum two-dimensional image entropy and the loss evaluation function. Secondly, 24 Gabor filter banks with 4 scales and 6 directions are created and the optimal filter is selected from the filter banks by the one-dimensional image entropy algorithm and the two-dimensional image entropy algorithm respectively. Thirdly, these two optimized Gabor filters are compared to realize the common defect detection of denim fabric, such as normal texture, miss of weft, hole and oil stain. The results show that the improved algorithm has better detection effect on common defects of denim fabrics and the average detection rate is more than 91.25%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.465-468
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• 2009

In this study, acid cellulase was used to treat denim fabrics by varying pH, temperature, enzyme concentration, treatment time and non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) concentration. Treatment condition was controlled based on the weight loss. The characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured in terms of tearing strength, stiffness, and color difference. The optimum conditions for cellulase treatment of denim fabric were pH 5.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 3% (o.w.f.), 90minutes. The weight loss did not change significantly with the addition of a non-ionic surfactant, but it improved when more non-ionic surfactant were used. The tearing strength of enzyme-treated denim fabrics did not deteriorate. The stiffness of the treated fabrics improved with the enzymatic treatment with and without the non-ionic surfactant. The difference in color of fabrics treated with enzyme increased.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.852-862
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• 2007

This study was to investigate the physical properties and the external characteristics of denim fabrics(100% cotton non-spun denim, 98% cotton/2% polyurethane spun denim) such as tensile strength, thickness and weight, flex stiffness, surface color and shrinkage. The results of the study were as follows. After examining the change of external characteristics of before and after washing finishing for denim fabrics, denim with bio washing had increased pliability compared to denim without washing finishing but the pliability of the denim did not increase according to the intensity or frequency of washing. The luminance change according to washing finishing was high in the order of bio stone bleach washing, bio stone washing, bio washing and denim without washing finishing and the surface color became brighter in accordance with the increase of intensity and frequency of washing finishing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.469-473
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• 2009

Recently, eco-friendly processing has been focused in the textile industry in order to reduce environmental pollutions. Applications of enzyme technology to the textile industry are an example of more environmentally compatible processes. However, there is not enough quantity of referring to denim fabric subjected to enzymatic treatment. In this study, depending on pH, temperature, cellulase concentration, and treatment time, the weight loss of denim fabrics was examined. Characteristics of enzyme-treated fabrics were measured by tearing strength, stiffness, and K/S values. The effect of a non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) on characteristics of the enzyme-treated fabrics was evaluated. The cellulase treatment condition on the cotton fabric were optimized to pH 6.0, $50^{\circ}C$, 1%(o.w.f.), and 60minutes. Characteristics of denim fabrics by cellulase treatment in the presence of Triton X-100 did not improve because Triton-X inhibited the activity of enzyme.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2023

Defect detection is one of the key factors in fabric quality control. To improve the speed and accuracy of denim fabric defect detection, this paper proposes a defect detection algorithm based on cascading feature extraction architecture. Firstly, this paper extracts these weight parameters of the pre-trained VGG16 model on the large dataset ImageNet and uses its portability to train the defect detection classifier and the defect recognition classifier respectively. Secondly, retraining and adjusting partial weight parameters of the convolution layer were retrained and adjusted from of these two training models on the high-definition fabric defect dataset. The last step is merging these two models to get the defect detection algorithm based on cascading architecture. Then there are two comparative experiments between this improved defect detection algorithm and other feature extraction methods, such as VGG16, ResNet-50, and Xception. The results of experiments show that the defect detection accuracy of this defect detection algorithm can reach 94.3% and the speed is also increased by 1-3 percentage points.

• 감성과학
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2017

본 연구는 대학생 소비자의 선호 감성을 반영한 패션소재기획에 도움을 주고자 수행되었다. 8종의 데님소재를 대상으로 색채 특성과 역학적 특성 등의 객관적 특성을 평가하였으며, 데님소재의 색채 선호도, 주관적 감각, 촉감 선호도를 대학생을 대상으로 조사하였다. 또한 데님소재의 색채 선호도와 촉감 선호도가 데님 슬랙스의 구매 선호도에 미치는 영향을 파악하였다. 데님소재의 색채 선호도는 데님소재의 개별 시료에 따른 유의한 차이를 보였다. 대학생들은 데님소재의 색채특성 중 $-b^*$값과 C값이 낮게 측정된 남색(PB)의 데님소재를 선호하였다. 데님소재의 역학적 특성 중에서 마찰계수 평균편차(MMD), 마찰계수(MIU), 기하학적 거칠기(SMD) 등의 표면특성과 전단 히스테리시스(2HG5) 등의 전단특성은 주관적 감각에 중요한 영향을 미치는 요인이었다. 한편, 데님소재의 촉감 선호도는 개별 시료에 따른 유의한 차이를 보였다. 폴리우레탄이 혼방된 데님소재에 대한 촉감 선호도가 높게 나타났으며, 면섬유 100%로 구성된 상대적으로 두껍고 무거운 데님소재의 촉감 선호도는 낮았다. 또한 촉감 선호도에 영향을 미치는 주관적 감각은 평활감, 유연감, 경량감 등의 순이었다. 데님 슬랙스에 대한 구매 선호도는 모두 평균 4점 이상의 점수를 나타내어 선호하였다. 데님소재의 색채 선호도와 촉감 선호도는 데님 슬랙스 구매 선호도에 영향을 미쳤는데, 색채 선호도가 더욱 영향을 주었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.107-117
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• 2018

Nettle fiber, a sustainable fiber, was applied to the fabrication of denim to identify changes in textile appearance and formation. For the weaving of nettle denim, nine specimens, distinguished by three kinds of composite use of nettle fiber and three stages of fabrication processes, were used. The kinetic characteristics of the nine specimens were measured by the KES-FB system, and the images of the specimens of finished denim textiles, captured with a CCD Camera, were analyzed. In terms of the extensibility (EM) of nettle denim, all specimens showed post-processing increase, thereby suggesting an easy transformation of the textile as a source material for denim fabric. The effects of washing on the woven formation of denim were also identified. The geometric roughness (SMD), the problematic property of bast-fiber-like nettle fiber, was found to be decreased by washing. In terms of the bending rigidity (B) of the textile, the post-processing shrinking percentage of elastic nettle denim was found to decrease; all specimens that underwent bio-washing only also manifested that post-processing elasticity increased. To improve the draping of nettle denim, a mixed spinning together with washing were found to be advantageous. In terms of the shear stiffness (G), which is closely associated with the appearance of clothes, the formation of textile was improved regardless of the types of processing, including bio-washing and bleach washing.