• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 한국콘크리트학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국콘크리트학회 2008년도 추계 학술발표회 제20권2호
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• pp.449-452
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• 2008

철근 콘크리트 구조는 철근과 콘크리트의 상호보완적으로 구성된 우수한 구조체이다. 그러나 구조적 균열 및 비구조적 균열과 같은 여러 원인들로 균열의 발생은 피할 수 없다. 이렇게 발생된 균열은 내구성, 안전성, 기능 및 미관 등 손상을 초래하기 때문에 보수가 필요하다. 다양하게 개발된 균열보수공법은 균열의 형태에 따라 공법의 선택이 달라진다. 그 중 균열주입공법은 구조체의 변형을 극소화하는 공법으로 범용적으로 사용되고 있다. 그러나 주입공법에 사용되는 기존 주입보수액은 성능과 환경적 측면에서 만족할만한 성능을 가지지 못하기 때문에 많은 연구가 진행되고 있는 실정이다. 이에 본 연구는 친환경 재료로써 균열주입재로 사용되는 아크릴 겔의 신속한 성능 발휘를 검토하기위한 방법으로 실험을 실시하였다. 실험결과 촉매제의 첨가량이 증가할수록 아크릴 겔의 겔화시간이 줄어드는 결과가 나타났으며, 연구의 결과는 아크릴 겔을 사용하는 균열주입 보수공법의 기초적 자료로 사용될 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.450-467
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• 2014

Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.38-59
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• 2011

This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as 'Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values'. And women's costumes kept changing in the boundary of 'Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization' of traditional and western costumes. 'Confliction' phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman's life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. 'Coexistence' phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. 'Harmonization' phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.561-574
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• 2009

Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to men's fashion by analyzing changes related to excessive and decorative expressions of latest men's wear design in the viewpoint of Maximalism, and using the results to develop a new fashion style. Results of the study are as follows: The characteristics of Maximalism in men's wear collection in the last 5 years can be classified as 'Fusion Maximalism, 'Decorative Maximalism', 'Exaggerative Maximalism', 'Humorous Maximalism', and 'Duplicative Maximalism'. The characteristics of each type of Maximalism can be summarized as follows: First, Fusion Maximalism creates new men's fashion style by fusing designs from different cultures in clothing items as well as dismantling gender boundaries in clothing design, and by having designs which transcends time and space. Second, Decorative Maximalism expresses ambiguous decadence by implementing feminine decoration that applies handicraft technique, as well as exaggeratedly using details and trimmings of contrasting images, and applying women's clothing items. Third, Exaggerative Maximalism represents extreme avant-garde that changes the idea of fashion design by changing the styling or the exaggerated silhouette. Fourth, Humorous Maximalism expresses not only the creation of new men's fashion look, but also expresses humanism with exaggerative enjoyment and pleasant ideas. Fifth, Duplicative Maximalism expresses creative design by implementing vivid images of different period and culture, and reproducing successful images of the past into modern fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.205-215
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• 2014

This study analyzed 'The representation of death' as expressed in the fashion photography posted on Facebook. Currently, there is a growing interest in 'Well-dying'. Also contemporary art and fashion is a trend that expressed what about death more than life. And today, Facebook is one of the current worldwide as a powerful communication. Death representation in contemporary fashion photography, as expressed in its first characteristic is 'Vanitas', and the main material was a skull. The shape of a skeleton of the symbol of death. Vanitas of inner meaning is vain, a mortal life's futility and death for the paradoxical emotion. The second characteristic is 'Phantom of the ruins'. This is like the darkness of death, and the shape represented in that space. And the death representation is depressed, gloomy atmosphere, dead-man and warm-less. Inner meaning is curiosity about the ghosts and the decadence romantic about the afterlife. The last characteristic is 'Grotesque'. This characteristic is the destruction of the body, fear of sadistic, and inhuman shape. This is parable with death that pain and fear of death, dark fantasy, the appearance of a contradiction modern society and cut off humanity. Inner meaning is the dark fear of death and the anger of wrong of the present society. At present, we have to reproduce the death, and what we want is eventually no one can escape 'Attention to death'. In addition, by expressing the solidarity between death and life is to want to get a consolation for the anxiety and afraid reality.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제12권34호
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• pp.743-769
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• 1974

Au debut I'habit Iiturgique ne differait de I'habit de fete du simple citoyen que par sa richesse. C'est seulement quand, dans la vie courante, on adopta la robe courte que le vetememt liturgique commenca a se distinguer, meme par la forme, du costume civil. Les ornements liturgiques, en effet, ne sont qu'une forme stylisee de l'habit de fete de la fin de l'Empire Romain (du IIIeme au Veme siecle). Pour une ceremonie religieuse on se presente bien habille. Le meme sentiment de respect des choses sacrees a amene deja, vers la fin de l'antiquite chretienne, a donner au pretre un vetememt liturgique special. Pour celebrer la messe, le pretre revet par-dessus sa soutane un costume special, compose de l'amict, de l'aube, du cordon, du manipule, de l'etole et de la chasuble. Aux messes solennelles, les eveques ajoutent a ces ornements des bas et sandales, des gants, la tunique et la dalmatique avee la mitre ; en certain cas, les archeveques y joingnent le pallium. Aux messes solennelles, le diacre porte sur ; l'aube le manipule et la tunique. De ces pieces du costume liturgique, on dira brievement, apres leur emploi et leur forme actel, l'origine et l'histoire, mais seulement apres avoir marque les lignes generales parition et des transformations du costume liturgique dans son ensemble. L'evolution du costume liturgique a partir du XIIIeme siecle peut se resumer en quelques mots en raison souvent de la lourdeur des riches etoffes (velours et brocarts) et de l'importance donne a la decoration, toujours par rechereche d'une plus grande commodite on a abandonne lentement d'abord, puis rapidement adapte a partir du XVI eme siecle, les formes amples pour des formes courtes et etriquees. Il faut faire quelques exceptions qui marquent l'influence des gouts decoratifs de gouts epoque : La periode de 1700 a 1850 marque la complete decadence du costum liturgique. On a depuis essaye de lui rendre sa beaute et aussi sa signification symbolique, par un retour aux etoffes et a la decoration de la deuxieme partie du moyen age. Souhations que, sous la direction des liturgistes, en respectant l'essentiel de la liturgie aujourd'hui, avec le concours d'artistes epris du sens liturgique et des connaisseurs des tradtions et de toutes les ressources actuelles on trouve des costumes liturgiques adaptes a notre temps dans un style plus simple et correspondant au besoins actuels.

• 영어영문학
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.515-527
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• 2011

Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day, Winifred Watson's novel of 1938, is a fairytale in novel form. Set in London of 1938, the story revolves around a one-day adventure of an ill-starred but truthful governess who is granted a second chance. This light-hearted comedy of manners was turned into a film by director Bharat Nalluri in 2008. An Anglo-American collaboration, co-scripted by Simon Beaufoy and David McGee, the film converts Watson's quaint novel into an edged heritage piece that encapsulates the 1930s, the problematic decade between the two World Wars. The film, while sustaining the narrative core of Watson's Cinderella story, attempts to place it firmly within a wider current of the novel's setting or London in 1938, tapping into the major concerns of the interwar years that engage with characters in one way or another. Stylistically, the film presents Art Deco as a main visual idiom to convey the prevailing mood of nihilism and decadence of the day. The setting here takes on significance in that it offers a telling counterpoint to the giddy superficial world of the novel. The 1930s was a highly charged decade under the threat of fascism and the Great Depression, fraught with economic and socio-political tensions and apprehensions. The film makes an explicit reference to the dismal context which is suppressed in the original text. The thirties is, therefore, portrayed as a decade of contradiction. It features gay buoyant festivity, rampant consumerism, and shifting morals and attitudes towards love, marriage and sexuality. Yet lurking beneath the surface glamour are the symptoms of crises and the deep-seated anxieties on the eve of World War II. In this way, Watson's novel of manners has been recreated into a defining film on the 1930s with its period feel propped by the atmospheric lighting, the exuberant Jazz score, and the splendid Art Deco costume and production design.