• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.5 s.207
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.756-773
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• 2024

This study proposes a prototype design method for pants suited to adult women with a difference of 27cm or more between the circumference of their waist and hip. The first pattern was modified around the hem, in the number of darts at the waist and in the slope of the front center. The second pattern was modified in the position of the waist darts and the length of the front and back darts. The third pattern showed side-line wrinkling, so the slope of the side-line and the number of darts were adjusted. Pants patterns for women with large hips can be calculated by inserting the difference between hip and waist circumference in the settings for the center front angle, center back angle, front side line angle, back side line angle, dart length, etc. This enables designers to draft pants patterns suited to the body shape of women with a difference in hip and waist circumference of 27cm or more.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.933-945
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• 2011

This research proposes a pattern design method for 24 pleated skirts in order to develop an automatic draft program for pleated skirts that will enhance fit and enable mass production. The research method and results are outlined as follow. 1. Three-dimensional body measurements were conducted on 30 randomly selected women in their 20s. By using 34 body measurement items and 6 types of calculations among the items, the items required in the designing of an original pleated skirt were extracted. They were then interpreted through correlation analysis, variance analysis, a t-test, linear regression analysis and multiple regression analysis. 2. An extra amount was added to the waist measurement and external capsule measurement according to the number of times the pleats coincided and the thickness of the fabric by the degree of polymerization of the horizontal cross section (the test of this research: 0.518mm). The extra amount of waist measurement was 3.6cm while the hip measurement was 4.3cm larger than the hip measurement combined with the external capsule measurement and the extra amount. 3. Based on the ${\pm}$standard deviation/2 as the average of the difference between the external capsule measurement and waist measurement, the subjects were classified into 3 somatotypes. Somatotype 1 presented an average total length of waist darts of 23.6cm while that of somatotype 2 was 26.2cm and that of somatotype 3 was 30.2cm. It has been confirmed that there is a significant difference among somatotypes in the total length of waist darts from the front center to the front side and the total length of waist darts from the side to the back center in terms of the average amount of waist darts for every 12 parts on the WL.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.3 s.217
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• pp.91-102
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• 2006

The following research compares the two apparel systems that are used in Korean colleges, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing the advantages and disadvantages of their Dart-related functions in the pattern construction process. The results are as follows. 1. Regarding transformation methods, the Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while the PAD system was able to use both pivot method and slash methods. in other issues, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart could be produced only in the PAD system, while curvy shaped Dart could not be produced in either system. 2. The change in side lines due to the change of Dart width only occurred in the PAD system, while the change in Dart length only occurred in the Gerber system; both systems need improvement. 3. As for the pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes which need to be corrected. 4. We first constructed a Dart shape composition chart according to the number of Darts. Based on this, we examined whether they have appropriate shapes. Among single-Darts, the Gerber system had an inappropriate, outer-line shape for Underarm Dart and Center Front Dart, and among two-Darts, it was inappropriate for Side and Waist Dart.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.459-469
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1384-1394
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• 2004

The purposes of this study were to investigate the current performance of 119 rescue uniforms and to improve them in terms of fitness, mobility, functionality, and convenience. This study was conducted a questionnaire survey on rescuers in 22 rescue squads in Seoul through direct. observations and face-to-face interviews to investigate the dissatisfaction of their uniforms. According to the results of this survey, respondents were highly dissatisfied with the fitness of uniforms, design, and functionality. liking into consideration of the problems found through this survey, an experimental uniform was developed as follows. The girth and width of the experimental uniform were designed to be more ample than the current uniforms and the jacket could be worn over pants. And the size and the number of pockets were increased in both the Jacket and trousers. In addition, the hems of the sleeves and trousers as well as the fly front of the jacket were improved. Furthermore, darts were added to the front and back of the knees to improve knee movement. Then an experimental uniform was evaluated through three sequences of wearing tests to compare it with the current uniforms: the evaluation of the appearance, mobility. and performance at field activity. According to these tests, the experimental uniform was found to be more satisfactory than former one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.27-39
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• 2018

This study analyzed the body shape of women over 70 years and classified their body shapes in order to provide basic data for the development of pants patterns that can complement the weakness of the body shape of elderly women. It were analyzed using SPSS Ver. 20.0. Five factors were extracted from the lower body: obesity and thigh thickness, lower body length, under knee thickness, ankle height, and hip sag. In type 1, the lower body was obese and the legs were thick, but the hips were not sagging. It was named 'high-hip obesity figure'. Type 2's abdomen, hip, and waist were obese, but the legs were thin and the hip were not sagging. Thus, 'bird-leg middle obesity figure' was the name. Type 3 had a long and slender lower body, but legs were thick and the hips were saggy, it was named 'strong-leg low-hip slender figure'. The elderly women showed less difference in waist, abdomen, and hip circumference. The abdominal circumference was 2-3cm more than the waist and hip circumference; hence there is a need to differentiate the shape and number of darts in the production of bottom-wear patterns for older women. In addition, the leg circumference is gradually reduced by aging compared to the size of the lower body. Therefore, it would be necessary to search for a method that can effectively design the difference between the hip circumference and the leg circumference in relation to the body shape and the aesthetics of older women.

• Journal of Embryo Transfer
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.213-221
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• 2001

This study was conducted to examine in vitro developmental ability of porcine embryos after somatic cell nuclear transfer. The porcine ear fell was cultured in vitro for confluency in serum-starvation condition(TCM-199 + 0.5% FBS) far 3~6 days of cell confluency. The zona pellucida of IVM oocytes were partially drilled using laser system. Single somatic cell was individually transferred into enucleated oocytes. And the reconstructed embryos were electrically fused(single DC 1.9kv/cm, 30$\mu$ sec) with 0.3M mannitol. After electrofusion, embryos were activated(single AC 5v/mm, 5sec) and cultured in HCSU-23 medium containing 10% FBS at 39$^{\circ}C$, 5% $CO_2$ in air for 6 to 8 days. The fusion rate of donor cells was 45.6, 36.8 and 46.1% in 3~4, 5~6 days of serum starvation and non serum starvation(N-S), and were 52.7. 53.0 and 51.7% in 1~2. 5~6 and 13~14 passages of donor cell culture, respectively. No significant difference was found in the fusion rate of donor cells by the duration of serum starvation treatment or the number of donor cell passages. By the size of donor cells, however, the fusion rate was significantly higher(P<0.05) for reconstructed embryos derived from 25r $\mu$m $\geq$ site of donor cells (65.3%) than that of 25~30$\mu$ m(42.5%) or 30$\mu$ m(45.5%)$\leq$ cells. The cleavage rate was significantly (P<0.05) higher in 3~4 darts of serum starvation treatment(67.1%) than that in N-S (50.7%) or 5~6 days of starvation(57.1%). The activation rate by the size of donor cells in fused oocytes was 56.5, 68.8 and 58.5%, respectively, and was not significant.