• Title/Summary/Keyword: Crown belt

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A Study on the Costume Culture of Xiongnu (흉노(匈奴)의 복식문화에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Yong-Mun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.3
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2013
  • Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

A Study of the Royal Lady's Dress in Late Joseon Dynasty According to the King's Wedding Process (가례시 절차에 따르는 조선후기의 왕실여성 복식연구)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.3
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    • pp.96-108
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    • 2009
  • This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

The Reality of Shi-Kai Yuan's 'Unity' Sprit in Jisiguanfuzhi ("제사관복제(祭祀冠服制)"에 나타난 원세계(袁世凱)의 '대동(大同)'의식의 실제)

  • Choi, Kyu-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.5
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    • pp.873-887
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    • 2010
  • Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of 'unity.' Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve 'unity' and Juebianfu was associated with 'unity' because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized 'unity' by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.

A Study on the Noise Attenuation Effects by Types of Forest Tree Belt (수림대(樹林帶)에 따른 소음감살효과(騷音減殺效果)에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Ju-Hyoung;Kang, Gun-Uh
    • Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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    • v.90 no.1
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 2001
  • The main purpose of this study was to provide information on attenuation effects in forest tree belt of pine stand and oak stand. The relationships between DBH, tree height, clear length, crown area and number of trees and also between distance from noise origin, landslope etc. were analysed by correlation and multiple regression. The results obtained were as follows : 1. There was no difference between pine stand and oak stand in effecting noise attenuation. 2. The noise pressure was highly correlated with all of seven elements tested and both DBH and distance from noise origin have higher r-values than the others. For the pine stand, it was 0.9133 in DBH and 0.9630 in the distance and for the oak stand, 0.9296 in DBH and 0.9565 in the distance. 3. The optimum regression equation for pine stand and oak stand were made by combination of two variables (DBH and distance). The table of noise attenuation was made by optimum regression equation. In the case of pine stand, the attenuation ratio was 29% at 5m, 31.6~32.6% at 10m, 38.3~39.8% at 20m and 45.2~46.6% at 30m. And case of oak stand, the attenuation ratio was 29% at 5m, 31.6~34.2% at 10m, 38.6~41.4% at 20m and 45~47.2% at 30m. 4. As the noise pressure limit at the Urban housing area according to environmental laws is under 55dB, it is suggested by the table of noise attenuation that the distance, and DBH for the pine and oak stand are over 20m, 400cm and 30-35 trees, respectively.

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Management Period Setting Study of through Analysis of the Growth Amount after Planting of Deciduous Broadleaf Species Planted in Ecological Restoration Sites (생태복원지에 식재된 낙엽활엽수종의 이식 후 생장량 분석을 통한 관리기간 설정 연구)

  • Lee, Soo-Dong;Bae, Soon-Hyoung
    • Korean Journal of Environment and Ecology
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    • v.36 no.5
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    • pp.496-506
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    • 2022
  • The growth of trees planted through transplantation rapidly decreases immediately after planting due to extreme disturbances such as root cutting and crown damage. Although the growth rate is recovered as time elapses, the time required to restore the original growth varies by species. Therefore, it is necessary to set an appropriate tree management period for survival after transplantation by analyzing each species' annual growth change. In this study, we analyzed the growth amount of deciduous broad-leaf species planted in the area where the riparian ecological belt was formed and proposed the management period based on the results. Slowed growth immediately after planting is a common phenomenon due to root cutting and pruning, the pre-works performed to increase tree survival rate during the transplantation process. Afterward, the original growth rate is recovered as time passes, but the time required may vary depending on the species and planting environment. Most of the trees showed a rapid decrease in growth immediately after transplantation. After that, although it is different for each species, most of them showed a gradual recovery from 2 years onwards. The analysis of the growth rate by tree species confirmed that it took 2 to 4 years, depending on the tree species, to recover the growth level before transplantation after a rapid decrease in growth immediately after transplantation. The results suggest that improving the defect rate of planted trees is necessary to meet the project objectives: ecological restoration and pollutant reduction. It requires setting a tree management period of at least two years and creating an appropriate base environment.

A study of Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments (중국 제복의 상징성에 관한 연구)

  • 이선희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.111-131
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    • 1992
  • This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.

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A Study on Luxury Prohibition of Korean Personal Ornaments (한국장신구의 사치 금제 고찰)

  • 추원교
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.43-62
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    • 1989
  • The luxury is the expression of human being's ornament instinct. In this study, in order to grasp the moulding system of the Korean's personal ornaments, the process of luxury prohibition was reviewed to search for to which direction the ornaments developed in the frame of the prohibited style connected closely to the character of the personal ornaments. The proiod was fixed from the old society to the late Chosun dynasty era. The beginning of the luxury in Korea seems to be the start of the luxury burial at the time of funeral in the age of Koguryo., In the era of Koguryo, 10th year of King Dongmyung (B. C. 28), in the era of Baekje, 27th year of King Koi(260), the prohibition of dress regulation and the style of dress were conducted. The prohibition of personal ornaments in Silla was started from King Bup:Heung, and in the 9th year of King Heung-Duk, the prohibition was conducted in order to correct the luxury of the nobles and set up the social discipline. In the 11 th of King Il-Sung-Ni-Sa-Kum, the use of gold, silver and jade was prohibited in the civilian circles. The prohibition of Silla was succeeded to Koryo era, and in the 7th year of King Kwangjong(956), the system of Baekgwan Gongbok(uniform for government officials) was set up, and the system of Sasek Gongbok(four color official uniform) was set up in the 11 th year of the same King, and the prohibition of the personal ornaments such as crown and band is considred to have been conducted. The prohibition of gold and silver was conducted in the first year of King Sungjong(982), and in the 4th year of King Chungryul(l260), the order of wearing the dress and hat in accordance with the Yusan dynasty and the Mongolian customs were widely circulated in the royal court and vivilian circles. The strong influence of Mongolia made the taste of the traditional personal ornaments laste. The personal ornaments were used for the nobles until the age of the Unified Sillar but even the common people could use them in case they were rich, and such a circumstances made the use of foreign goods inflated. The prohibition of Koryo era was aimed at the prohibition of the foreign goods of luxury, and the classification of the social status.In the age of Chosun Dynasty, the production of gold and silver was feeble indeed but the oute reason of the prohibition was to eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of eradicate the luxurious tendency, elevate the custom of thrift, and moreover, the gold, silver and jade were no the products of Korea and the prohibition was conducted but the true reason was afor the tribute tt China and the classification of status. The prohibition of Chosun dynasty was conducted first in the June of the 3rd year of King Taejo The major contents of prohibition was no use of gold, silver and jade, coral, agate, amber, etc. of th, wives of the Dang-Sang-Kwan (Court Nobleman) or their sons and daughters, and the same pheno menon was common even at the time of marriage. The people engaged in the secret trade there of wert beheaded. The personal ornaments in the prohibition were the pendent trinket, Binyo (crossbar) ceremonial ornamental hat, ring, earring, ornamental knife, hat string, hat ornament, belt, etc. Thl luxurious marriage expenses out of the luxury was severe, and lose of the marriageable age because 0 non-preparing the marriage goods was the national evil. The prohibition oC luxury was hard to bt kept to the nobles or rich people, the same as old days and present days. The prohibition of th{ luxury and personal ornaments of Korea had nothing to do with the commons, and it was limited tc the nobles and rich people. The prohibition was aimed to cultivating the custom of frugality by eradicating the luxurious atmosphere, but it was chiefly due to the tribute to the China and tht discrimination of the. status. We can say that the recent personal ornament was the flower of handi craft industry bloomed in the prohibition and regulation.

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The Use of Landscape Greenery Surrounding Commercial Buildings in Seoul (서울시 일부 상업용 건물 수목의 입지환경)

  • Lee, Eun-Heui;Jang, Ha-Kyung;Ahn, Geun-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.36 no.5
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    • pp.73-81
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to create a database of the use of landscape greenery that surrounds commercial buildings in Seoul. The method of this study was: to review preceding studies and related laws, survey areas, measure trees, and analyze the results. The 20 representative sites were specifically investigated to measure the width, direction, and environment of planting conditions. To analyze the greens adjacent to the building, the greens were divided into three types: front greenery, side greenery, and rear greenery. The study surveyed the distance from trees to adjacent buildings, and their planting conditions. The results of this study are as follows. First, 45% of the front greenery and 30% of the rear greenery were not established, but 19 of the 20 side greens were. Second, 13 of the 44 green areas adjacent to commercial buildings were under 1m in width. Most side greenery was belt -shape and unrelated to the features of the site or building. Third, the average distance from trees to buildings was 0.76m, indicating that most trees were planted too close to the buildings. Fourth, of the 30 trees utilized, the species breakdown was: 8 evergreen trees, 15 deciduous trees, and 7 shrubs. For the most part, planting patterns were similar for all species. Fifth, most sites were ill-suited to tree growth, because crown shape, planting conditions, and light conditions, etc., had not been considered. Based on these results, it is suggested that more specific, subdivided standards for planting conditions should be established. For example, building plans should include a green area that is at least one meter in width. In addition, according to the location and type(closing/opening) of the greenery adjacent to the buildings, suitable management programs and supervision protocol should be adopted.

The Ruling System of Silla to Gangneung Area Judged from Archaeological Resources in 5th to 6th Century (고고자료로 본 5~6세기 신라의 강릉지역 지배방식)

  • Shim, Hyun Yong
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.42 no.3
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    • pp.4-24
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    • 2009
  • This paper examined archaeological resources that discuss how Silla entered the Gangneung area, the coastal region along the East Sea that has been excavated most actively. Silla expanded its territories while organizing the its system as an ancient state and acquired several independent townships in various regions, stretching its forces to the East Sea area faster than any other ancient states of the time. In particular, many early relics and heritages of Silla have been found in Gangneung, the center of the East Sea area. Many archaeological resources prove these circumstances of that time and provide brief texts that are valuable for our interpretation of historical facts. In this respect, it was possible for me to examine these resources to answer my question as to why early relics and heritages of Silla are found in the Gangneung area. Based on my research on Silla's advancement into the Gangneung area, I have acquired the following results: How did Silla rule this area after conquering Yeguk in the Gangneung area? After conquering the Gangneung area, Silla attempted an indirect ruling at first. Later, Silla adopted a direct ruling system. I divided the indirect ruling period into two phases: introduction and settlement. In detail, Silla's earthenware and stone chamber tombs first appeared in Hasi-dong in the fourth quarter of the 4th Century and the tombs spread to Chodang-dong in the second quarter of the 5th Century. A belt with dragon pattern openwork, which seems to be from the second quarter of the 5th Century, was found to tell us that the Gangneung region began receiving rewards from Silla during this time. Thus, the period from the fourth quarter of the 4th Century to the second quarter of the 5th Century is designated as the 1st Phase (Introduction) of indirect ruling in terms of aechaeological findings. This is when Silla was first advanced to the Gangneung area and tolerated independent administration of the conquered. In the third and fourth quarters of the 5th Century, old mound tombs appeared and burials of relics that symbolized power emerged. In the third quarter of the 5th Century, stone chamber tombs were prevalent, but wooden chamber tombs, stone mounded wooden chamber tombs, and lateral entrance stone chamber tombs began to emerge. Also, tombs that were clustered in Hasi-dong and Chodang-dong began to scatter to Byeongsan-dong, Yeongjin-ri, and Bangnae-ri nearby. Steel pots were the symbol of power that emerged at this time. In the fourth quarter of the 5th Century, stone chamber tombs were still dominating, but wooden chamber tombs, stone mounded wooden chamber tombs, and lateral entrance stone chamber tombs became more popular. More crowns, crown ornaments, big daggers, and belts were bestowed by Silla, mostly in Chodang-dong and Byeongsan-dong. The period from the third quarter to the fourth quarter of the 5th Century was designated as the 2nd Phase (Settlement) of indirect ruling in terms of aechaeological findings. At this time, Silla bestowed items of power to the ruling class of the Gangneung area and gave equal power to the rulers of Chodang-dong and Byeongsan-dong to keep them restrained by each other. However, Silla converted the ruling system to direct ruling once it recognized the Gangneung area as the base of its expedition of conquest to the north. In the first quarter of the 6th Century, old mound tombs disappeared and small/medium-sized mounds appeared in the western inlands and the northern areas. In this period, the tunnel entrance stone chamber tombs were large enough for people to enter with doors. A cluster of several tunnel entrance stone chamber tombs was formed in Yeongjin-ri and Bangnae-ri at this time, probably with the influence of Silla's direct ruling. In the first quarter of the 6th Century, Silla dispatched officers from the central government to complete the local administration system and replaced the ruling class of Chodang-dong and Byeongsan-dong with that of Silla-friendly Yeonjin-ri and Bangnae-ri to reorganize the local administration system and gain full control of the Gangneung area.