• Title/Summary/Keyword: Crown belt

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A Study on the Wearing Occasion and Formula of Jeok-Ui in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 적의의 용례와 제작에 대한 고찰)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon;An, In-Sil;Jang, Jeong-Yun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.6 s.115
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    • pp.87-100
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    • 2007
  • In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

A Basic Study on Landscape Plants as Attenuator of Vehicular Noise(I) (造景植物의 道路交通騷音 減衰機能에 關한 基礎硏究(I))

  • Kook, Chan;Kim, Sun-Woo;Sim, Woo-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.18 no.3 s.39
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 1990
  • Landscape plants as attenuator of vehicular noise were basically experimented with 8 kinds of trees and shrubs at the university nursery, and checked the attenuating effects by the planted distances, species and sound frequencies. The experimental results are shown and sumarized as follows ; 1. Most plants showed the considerable noise attenuating function in the sound frequencies of 63Hz and 1,000Hz. Tall trees such as Juniperus chinensis var. kaizuka and Magnolia grandiflora showed better effects than shrubs or small trees such as Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragnance, Osmanthrs heterophyllus, Rhododendron indicum, Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Tetragona Aurea' and Pinus paruiflora in 63Hz frequency, but shrubs showed better effects in 1,000Hz. 2. Trees showed 6~8dB attenuation and shrubs 4~5dB regardless an increase of distance between sound source and receiver in 63Hz. 10 meter width of tree belt could reduce 10 more dB, but 5 meter of shrub belt showed the same effect in 1,000Hz. 3. Trees having more leaves and wider crown showed constantly increase of attenuation of sound by the distance in 1,000Hz, and distinct increase of attenuation were observed in 2,000 more Hz.

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A Study on Emperor′s Costumes during the Reign of Gun-Ryung in Qing Dynasty (청조 건륭 43년" 천대당안"복식연구)

  • 최경순
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.73-89
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    • 2004
  • The following is a summary of comparative study on costumes between 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and 『Chen-De-dang-an』 in Gun-Ryung 41st, 42nd and 43rd yew to find out costume situation actually worn by Emperor Gun-Ryung in Qing dynasty. In Gun-Ryung 41st year, Emperor's costumes showed a sign of royal tour robes. In 42nd year, a phase of mourning robe system came out and a plain side of costumes was shown owing to the mourning. In 43rd year, it showed costume situation worn by Emperor in peaceful year without any particular event. Velvet, material for traveling crown was used in a short time before and after the change of the season besides royal tour and this can be understood as a well-timed and reasonable selection of material. Eventhough robe material, Jik-kyung-Ji-chack-sa(a kind of silk) had been used for summer robes since Gun-Ryung 42nd you. Memorial costumes followed Emperor's court costume system I in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and court belt I or II as memorial suit belt was used for the memorial costume of Emperor Gun-Ryung and they properly applied of the costume system in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 for coats.

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A Study On the costume of the Koryo Dynasty (2)-$\cicled3$-See Through by the Human being, on the Buddist Painting of Koryo Dynasty Engraved Painting on the wood.- (고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식제도에 관한 연구(2)-고려시대 인물관련 제작 불화(佛畵)중 '경판화'를 통해서 본 복식제도에 관한 연구(2)-$\cicled3$-)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.221-232
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    • 1995
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

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Formal characteristics of headdress in Chinese minorities (중국 소수민족 머리 장신구의 형태 특성)

  • Jiang, Yan;Jin, Shu;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.356-375
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

A study on the Assyrian Costume

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2010
  • The Assyrians usually wore two types - the tunic and the shawl. These two types were worn alone, or in combination and changes were introduced by varying the proportions of the tunic or shawl. The tunic appeared to be of the sleeves are short and reaching to the ankles or shortened to knee length according to the rank. Assyrian shawl pattern can be divided into five distinct styless. Many of the styles were suitable for costumes to wear in religious plays and pageants. Fringed shawls were the trademark of forma1 Assyrian costume. The usual badge of rank was a long fringed shawl. Intermediate rank wore shawl with short fringes and lower grade wore no shawl at all. The military costume was comparative uniformity : conical helmets was regarded as Scythic in character, short, fringed tunics, wide belts or helmet, round caps and long tunics covered in metal scales, belted at the waist. Assyrian woman costume was the long tunic with fringed hem and a long fringed shawl or was a plaid tunic and wide belt over it. They wore gold crown and horned Cap and tiara, ugal (head-dress) and the most ordinary earrings were the drop and the cross shape and necklace was made of the coloured stones and bracelets ended with heads of animal was regarded as Scythy style or adorned with a rosette at the centre.

Conjectual Study on Korean Costume in the Prehistoric Period (선사시대(先史時代)에 있었을 우리 민족복식(民族服飾)을 생각하며)

  • You, Hi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.5
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    • pp.7-11
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    • 1981
  • In the vast extent of time, man and his ancestors have existed on earth about 2,000,000 years. For Near-Man, they knew how to make fire and protected themselves with hairs. Old-Man covered their bodies with the skins of wild animals. New Man improved the quality, the range and ingenuity, so they fabricated clothes with the animal skins. New Man is considered as ancestor of Modern Man. They had spread widely over the earth to take advantage of their surroundings. The next period, New Stone Age was chiefly distinguished by agricultural age. He was now about to make clothes from natural fibers. The two most obvious orgins of clothing are to protect the body against environment and to decorate the body. The forms of clothing were different from the various climates and regions they had settled, for example Yo-po Hyung (Apron), Kwae-po Hung (Sewn garment), Kwan-doo Hyung (Poncho), Chun-kae Hyung (Frontopend garment), Chai-hyung Hyung (Body-conforming shape). Our ancestor had moved from Baikal Lake, Central Asia toward northeast; Shun-tung in China, Manchuria and at last Han Panninsula. Considering our basic costume of ancient times were Yu(jacket), Ko(trousers), Sang(skirt), Po (coat) with the accessories of Kwan (crown), Mo (hat), Dai (belt), Hwa, Eie (footwear), here I conjecture our costume of prehistoric period was Chaihyung Hyung(Body-conforming shape) in the purpose of body covering.

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An Inquiry into the Types of Ceremonial Costume Worn for the Performance of Sejong Hoi-ryeyeon (세종 회례연 공연을 위한 의례복식의 유형 고찰)

  • Baik, Young-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.1
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    • pp.135-144
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    • 2010
  • This study is on the reproduction of King Sejong's costume presented in at the National Classical Music Institute in the late of 2008. The performance was presented focusing on the idea of ceremonial music of hoi-ryeyeon produced in the reign of king(1433). The reproduction of King Sejong's costume was undertaken to keep pace with the times and to pay due regard to the performance costume. The implications of the study are as follows. King Sejong's Hoi-ryeyeon ceremonial costume is a royal robe(gonryongpo), the best one of king's clothing. The basic type of gonryongpo is that of fastening four yongbos to danryoung. The type of gonryongpo is, therefore, made with reference to unearthed articles and portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The yongbo is larger one than the late period of the Yi dynasty in the light of portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The supporting type of gonryongpo is that of gonryongpo, dapho, and chulrik, king's dress granted by Myeong dynasty. In the late period jikryeong was used as supporting dress and fixed to be lining and included jikryeong. Therefore the order of supporting dress was jikryeong, dapho and chulrik and was reproduced with reference to unearthed articles in the early Yi dynasty, as did the small piece of crown, belt and shoes.

A Study on the Fish Shape Credit Mark of the Ancient China and Japan, Korea (한.중.일 3국의 어부 제도에 관한 연구)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.15-31
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    • 2000
  • 1. After the Chu Dynasty(周代), we can confirm the fish shape mark made of stones as the relics of the Chunkuk dynasty(戰國時代). In the Shu Dynasty(隋代), the system of bamboo and the rabbit shape mark made of silver into the fish shape mark. As it were, made of bamboo or siltier changed into the fish shape mark made of jade, gold, silver or wood. 2. In the Dang Dynasty(唐代), the used the fish shape credit mark made of jade, gold, silver, copper or textile, according to their classes. According to one's posit the man who wore purple, red coat, credit mark made a gold and silver. attached with putting them in fish bags. 3. In the Ryo Dynasty(遼代), there was also a system of attaching marks. The emperor was hanging the fish shape and the officials attached the double fish shape to the common dress. fish shape of jade. gold, amber, agate, silver or copper. without any fish bag. 4. The Song Dynasty(宋代) followed the system of the Dang Dynasty they used only the fish shape bags without marks in them. Hanging the fish shape bags made of gold and silver at the back side of the belt. 5. The Gin Dynasty(金代) carried out the system of made jade, gold or silver like the Dang, Song and Ryo Dynasty. In the Sejong Kingdom a system of paper card was carried out as the credit mark of the eighth and the ninth grade. 6. In the Ming Dynasty(明代), the military official general attached the golden, silver, ivory of jade, wood and copper cards with their positions and names. 7. Following the Dang Dynasty, Japan made of fish shape bags to their clothes. Colors of their fish shape marks were same as their clothes. They made the marks, such as crystal, cow's horn, lead and nickel and plated them with gold or silver. 8. In Korea, Pohai(발해) established the fish shape credit mark differed in material. gold, silver or copper according to their positions. We can confirm the Unified Silla(南國;統一新羅), carried out the system of attaching the fish shape in Chonma Chong(천마총), Golden Crown Chong(金冠塚), the King's 13-17 belt ring unearthed at the north part of Court South threat Chong(황남대총), the fish shape golden or silver, to their purple or red ceremonial coats. In the Koryo Dynasty(高麗), like the Dang, Song and Pohai, they attached the fish shape golden or silver marks, to their purple or red ceremonial coats.

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A Study on The Costume of The Kory Dynasty(2) -See through by the human being on the Buddist Panting of Koryo Dynasty hang on the wall(2)-1 (고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구(2) -고려시대 인물관련 제작불화중 '탱화'를 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구(2)-$\circled1$ -남녀 왕실 귀족 및 관직자 복식을 주로하여-)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.205-224
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    • 1994
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the thirty pictures of Bud-dha to hang on the wall among the existing Buddist paintings. The costume to study were made about 64 years during the King Chung-yol(1286) to the King Chung-jong(1350) which style was mostly related in Won Dynasty. 가) Men's wear ; 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan Kun and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knot-s, and tied up with a hair ribbon, A kinds of Kuan-mo were Mine-lu-kuan Yuan-yu-kuan, Nong-kuan, Hae-chi-kuan Pok-du Yun-wha-kuan Yip-mo- and Tu-ku(Helmeto) 2. clothes ; 1) Colour of Koryo King's Mien-ku Kuan costume was not agree with blue and reddish black colour which was used in Yo, Song, Kum and Won Dynasty, however black and greenhish blue colour was agreed with. 2) The king wore T'ung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and the government officials wore Chin-hien-kuan Hae-chi-kuan and Nong-kuan as a court dress. In general the king and the Crown Prince wore a hats which was used in T'ung-t'ien system however sometimes they wore small hats which was cited in literature. 3) Gate guard and upper garment wore colourful costume figured gold colour pattern which was distin-gtive costume system of Koryo. 4) A monk wore big sleeve long skirt big sleeve long jacket long skirt and shoulder scar-f full shoulder scarf or right hand shoulder opened scarf. 5) The Soldiers wore helmet shoulder or scarf pee-back hung-kap, pok-kap, yang-dan-g-kap we-yu-kap kun-kap, and boots and they carried arms. 6) The young boys wore scarf, loin cloth, long skirt, belt neckless, wan-silk, boots and foots wear and wristless. 나) Women's wear ; 1. Hair style and hairs and tied up with a hair ribbon and wore precious ston decorated hair dress wheel shape hair dress pan shaped head dress handkerchif covered hair dress decorated precious stone hair pin silk chippon made of head dress muf-fler shaped hairdress. Boots mocasin hae lee, suk and sandle wored as a shoes depends on the classes. They wore neckless, earing wres-tless and wan-pu-sik. 2. Closthe 1) High rank lade's wore un-kyun attached jacket and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated long skirt apron back apron knot belt, scarf this type is the same with Dang Dynasty five dynasty of china Song, Kum Won, Myung Dynasty and our cos-tume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dynasty.

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