• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.230-239
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• 2017

In the clothes industry, there are lack of experts including technical designers who can analyze the fit of clothes. This study is to provide practical data available for fit analysis education by distinguishing the differences in standards and aspects of garment fit between experts and novices, through the eye-tracking technology to quantify the sense of fit. For this study, two groups were organized; one composed of 7 experts with over 15 year-experience including technical designers and patternmakers, and the other composed of 7 novices who are students majoring in clothing. Wearing the goggle type eye-tracker Tobii Pro Glasses 2, the participants in the experiments were required to conduct fit analyses for a pair of pants on a live model. After those experiments, they were required to check the items for fit analysis and assess the importance level of them on a questionnaire. The differences between the two groups in the ratios of total visit count and total visit duration by each AIO(Area of Interest) of clothes were analyzed through non-parametric statistical test. The results of eye tracking experiments showed that experts focused on center front and back line, crotch area, and side seam, while novice's fixation points were dispersed around the pants. The survey results showed that the experts put importance on the center line position and its verticality, front-back proportion of side seam line, and front-back proportion of waist line, 71.4~100% of whom checked them, while 14.3% of the novices checked them.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.813-820
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• 2019

This study identified actual wearing and size dissatisfaction with jeans worn by upper grade elementary school girls. A survey was conducted on 147 10~12-year-old girls in order to collect basic data to design a slim fit jeans pattern for upper grade elementary school girls. The result of the study are as follows. Upper grade elementary school girls wore jeans at least once a week, 46.9% were 1~2 times, 31.3% were 3~4 times and 21.8% were more than 5 times per week. The size of the jeans they wear was often one size or two sizes larger than the actual height section. Upper grade elementary school girls preferred jeans that fit well and allow for a full range of motion; in addition, waist and hip measurements were important criteria when selecting size. The preferred length of jeans was those that go to the ankle along with slim-style jeans made of "cotton+spandex". In terms of dissatisfaction with jeans, upper grade elementary school girls showed discomfort when the lower back waistline slipped when sitting and when there was a tight crotch area. In addition, cases of exchange or return were found to be due to fit, including waist, hip or thigh measurements even when the area most repaired is was the pant length.ired is pant length, cases of exchange or return were found to be due to fit, including waist, hip, or thigh measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.692-704
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• 2007

Recently, Basic patterns with excellent body fitness and automation availability are required to be developed in order to automate the patterns of women's clothes. In this study, this reference points, reference lines and segments were fixed onto 3D scan data for the lower body the women in their twenties, they were directly spread out to be 2D flat pattern to facilitate development into the design of slacks adhered closely to the human body such as special and highly-functional clothes, and then slacks 2D pattern was developed for the purpose of seeking scientific approach to the development into basic form slacks and 3d emotional pattern. For conversion of 3D pattern into 2D flat pattern, reference points and segments were created by using Rapid Form of 3D shape analysis software, and triangle mesh of the body surface of the created shape was developed with Auto CAD 2005. The correspondence between slacks and human body was examined by the fixation of major reference lines. Specially, the wearing characteristics of slacks were considered by the fixation of side lines in consideration of posture. As a result of using the way of development to constantly maintain the length while 3D triangle mesh is converted into 2D flat mesh, the shape was shown to be excellently reproduced, and the area of flat pattern was increased compared to the shape of parting plane. Also, the sunk-in curve like the brief line of front crotch length needed a cutting line when it was closely adhered, when mesh was overlapped, and the pattern area was smaller compared to the actual shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.147-162
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to grasp the inconvenience and problems with caregivers' uniforms and preferred designs by examining the wearing conditions of these uniforms in medical welfare facilities for the aged. To attain this purpose, a questionnaire was completed by direct observation and by interviewing caregivers in specialized hospitals for the aged and those engaged in nursing and then a preliminary examination was carried out. The questionnaire was given to 228 caregivers. Following are the results of this research. It was found that the caregivers in medical welfare facilities for the aged were women in their 50s, wearing primarily a size 77 uniform. It was revealed that when the caregivers bathe patients, they usually get wet from the knees to the bottom part of their pants and many of them (61.2%) change both their tops and pants after giving a bath. The caregivers said that every part of the tops of existing uniforms, except the armpits, were a little large or too long. It turned out that the area of the armpits, the front buttons, crotch, hip area, and knees are mostly the areas that readily wear out in the uniforms. It was reported that the uncomfortable parts in the uniforms a.e the armpits, shoulders, and the front adjusting parts of the tops and the hips, thighs, and the crotches of the pants. The material for the uniforms have problems in ventilation, fluffing, absorption of sweat, and permeation of odor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.131-138
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.116-129
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• 2013

This research analyzes the status of clothes purchase and the size fit of the clothes for kindergarten children in the Daegu city area. The total of 344 questionnaires were analyzed. The summary and the conclusion are as follows: First, the frequency of accompanying children when purchasing appeared mostly 'sometimes accompany'. Second, the parents appeared 'sometimes reflect children's opinions'. Third, the main information source was 'store display'. The main place of purchase was large discount stores, internet home-shopping, and department stores (respectively) with significant differences in the age of the parent(p<.05) and monthly incomes(p<.001). In the clothes size selection, 72.1% of the parents selected 'one size larger' at time purchase and showed asignificant difference by monthly income. Repair-experience after purchase appeared in 31.4% of the samples because of the inadequate length and width of the clothes. The unfit clothes parts were in the order of pant length, sleeve length, waist part, jacket length, pant width, hip part, and crotch, which showed a significant difference in children based on gender. The salient purchasing point for child clothing was in the order of 'size fit', 'color and pattern', 'design' and 'convenience in action'. It is important to consider that kindergarten children need adequate size for growing and convenient pattern designs (that include materials at stretching parts) for positive acting because they are in a period of frequent activity and growth.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to compare the size of ready-made clothes for different body shapes and body sizes, and to discover the differences in satisfaction with the size of ready-made clothes. The subjects were women in their 208 and 308 from Busan and Gyeongnam. The women were classified into groups: normal weight, overweight, and obese, using the Body Mass Index (BMI). The comparison of the body size showed a significant difference among the shapes; the average BMI in overweight women was 24.2 while that of obese women was 27.6. For the clothing size for each body shape, obese women most often wore size 77 and size 88, regardless of the sizes of upper and lower garments. The size consistency of upper and lower garments was the lowest in obese women. However, in most of the shapes, women tended to choose larger-sizes for lower garments than for upper ones. The more obese the subject, the less inclined they were to wear garments for their real body size. Satisfaction with the clothing size was significantly different between body shapes; the more obese, the lower the level of satisfaction with the size. As well, satisfaction with the fit of clothing at certain parts was shown to be low especially in the bust measurement, shoulder width, upper garment length, crotch length, and thigh circumference. When surveyed about the use of alterations for different body shapes, the results were that over 65% of subjects did not alter upper garments regardless of their body shape. Comparatively, 68% or above of all body shapes did do alterations to lower garments for example, the length of pants or skirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.94-110
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• 2016

A necessity for infants, diapers are not only used over long durations, but are also in direct contact to the infants' skin, making the choice of diaper to be of utmost importance. Current interest in cloth diapers is rapidly increasing because of issues concerning the baby's health, green environment, and economy. However, previous researches on cloth diapers are limited to simply investigating the form and material of commercial cloth diapers. There are few in-depth researches for the optimal cloth diaper development. This is therefore a fundamental research for the development of optimized cloth diapers, and analyzes the difference in absorption depending on the placement of seam line (liner, darts, and I pattern), the locations of liquid spraying (1 cm and 8 cm ahead of the center), and the amount of liquid capacity (10 and 20 ml). Currently, the development of diaper patterns considers the crotch shape of the infants and the skin length deformation. As a result, in the case of the I-pattern, the horizontal seam line prevents water from spreading to the front and back, thus reducing the absorbed area. This result was more clearly visible when water was sprayed at the center. The effect of the seam line became more obvious when there was more water (20 ml); also, when water was sprayed at the center, more leakage was observed. Using the results of this research, implementation of horizontal seam is expected to prevent the upward spread of urine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.90-103
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• 2008

This study aims to examine the current state of wearing working clothes for the workers who work in Electric Technology Division, Korea Railroad Corporation, to identify inconveniences and problems in relation to the working clothes, and based on the examination, to find a way to improve them, creating a design of summer working clothes that will have more advanced functionalities including activity adaptability and comfort. Survey was conducted through direct observation and interview for Electric Railway Power Team. A total of 352 copies were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of questionnaire, an experimental clothes, the functionality of which has improved in terms of design, material, and patterns, was created. The followings are the results of the study. Easy activity, design, and comfort are required as functions of working clothes. In design related questions, the survey shows high dissatisfaction in the color of existing working clothes, and preferred colors are dark blue and gray. With regard to the method of zipping up the front side, zippers are preferred. Although many pockets on the existing working clothes have high satisfaction, dissatisfaction to pocket format is high. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation and sweat absorption. It is shown that the areas frequently polluted include the lower part of pocket, the edges of sleeves and elbow areas on the jacket. The frequently polluted area of the trousers include knee areas, the edges of pants and buttocks. With regard to the areas where the workers felt discomfort when motion, discomfort is highly indicated with armpits and back on the jacket. Also discomfort is highly indicated with crotch, buttocks and knee areas on the trousers. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation, sweat absorption.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.597-603
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• 2006

This study was aimed to find out the problems of wearing flame-proof clothing and to analytically assess functional working-clothes, thus to propose a new design. We carried out a questionnaire with workers in the field and evaluated the facility for wearing, the sensation of wearing and clothing microclimate in the environmental chamber. We found out the problems were in the parts of neck, armpits, armhole, sleeve, crotch and suspenders. Thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensations were evaluated to be 'hot', 'wet' and near to discomfort', respectively. Therefore, improvement of movement and air permeability is needed. If we can add gusset on armpit for air permeability, this gusset will enable to enlarge the surface in armpit area and finally give a movement efficiency. We suggested several new partly modified design for flame-proof clothing which can be applied to other protective clothing for improvement. This must be further considered in the ergonomic evaluation of new proposed functional working-clothes as well as in the suggestion of design.