• 제목/요약/키워드: Cotton Dyeing

검색결과 483건 처리시간 0.023초

조선 전기 아청사여복식(鴉靑賜與服飾)의 고증적 분석 -성종 재위기의 포 류와 이엄을 중심으로- (A Study on the Historical Research of Indigo Clothing Gifts of Early Joseon -Focusing on the Po and Ieom of King Seongjong's Reign-)

  • 최정
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제44권1호
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    • pp.107-125
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    • 2020
  • Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

고구려 와당(瓦當)문양을 응용한 문화상품개발에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Development of Cultural Products with Applied Koguryo Wadang Pattern)

  • 이미석
    • 복식
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    • 제56권6호
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    • pp.87-95
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    • 2006
  • This is a study regarding the development of Cultural Products with Applied Koguryo Wadang Patterns. The objective of this study is in developing unique Cultural Products which combine traditional Korean images with modern feel by utilizing Koguryo Wadang patterns. The among Korean traditional patterns which implicit the sense of beauty and modeling, chose and investigated the Wadang patterns of the Koguryo. And from it, studied about the originality and characteristics of the Koguryo Wadang patterns. In this characteristics of the Wadang pattern, the representative lotus design pattern was based and reorganized to fine the probability of the modern expression using traditional patterns. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing, printing) the fabrics(cotton:Kwang-mok) by theme. Approximately 16 pieces of Cultural Products that can be used in daily life were created using Koguryo Wadang patterns, including Traffic or credit card cases, Name card cases, Pouches, CD cases, Cushions, Bags, Purses, Vest, Muffler. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.

염욕의 pH와 매염제의 변화에 따른 코치닐의 염색성 연구 II -양모직물을 중심으로- (A Study on Cochineal Dyeing by Various Mordants and pH Conditions II -Treatment on Wool Fabric-)

  • 김경선;김종준;전동원
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제13권2호
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    • pp.248-254
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    • 2005
  • In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

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Dyeproperties of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.

  • Jeon, Ji-Eun;Jeon, Jin-Hwa;Lee, Sang-A;Choi, Jae-Hong;Park, Young-Mi
    • 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국염색가공학회 2011년도 제45차 학술발표회
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    • pp.33-33
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    • 2011
  • Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

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감귤 오일 마이크로캡슐 가공 직물에 대한 EEG 신호와 주관적 향기감성 및 선호도 (EEG Signal, Subjective Fragrance Sensation, and Preference of Citrus Oil Microcapsule-Loaded Fabric)

  • ;김춘정;이은주
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제43권2호
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    • pp.297-309
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    • 2019
  • This study investigated EEG signal, subjective fragrance sensation, and the preference of differently colored cotton knit treated with Citrus unshiu oil containing microcapsules as well as examined their relationships for providing regression models on subjective fragrance preference. Color variables combining 2-level hue (Yellow and Green) and 3-level tone (strong, pale, and grayish) were applied by dyeing prior to microcapsule treatment. We invited 28 female college students aged 20's for EEG signal experiments and subjective fragrance sensations with fragrant knit by rubbing. EEG signals at $mid-{\alpha}$, $fast-{\alpha}$, and $low-{\beta}$ showed significant differences depending on color; Green had more relative power values and grayish tone did more at $low-{\beta}$. Even though subjective sensation showed no significant differences depending on color, some of them such as Fresh, Comfort, and Natural showed significant correlations with EEG signal at $low-{\beta}$, which means that the fragrance sensations of Citrus unshiu fragrance are concerned with attention and alertness for Koreans. Fragrance preference was regressed significantly using some EEG signals and subjective sensation. The results could be utilized to value up fragrant textiles by Citrus unshiu oil.

감과 쪽의 천연염색 배색직물의 색채감성과 색채선호도에 대한 한국인과 중국인의 비교 연구 (A Comparative Study of Color Emotion and Preference of Koreans and Chinese for Two-Color Combination by Naturally Dyed Fabrics with Persimmon and Indigo)

  • 이은주;이상희;최종명
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제46권1호
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    • pp.33-48
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    • 2022
  • This study was performed to compare the color emotion and preference of Koreans and Chinese for a two-color combination by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon and indigo and to establish prediction models of color preference. Nine specimens prepared by combining two different colored fabrics (persimmon and indigo) were evaluated for color emotion and preference by Korean and Chinese groups of female college students. Koreans described most specimens as natural and traditional, whereas the Chinese described them as more pleasant and elegant as well as warmer and lighter than Koreans did. The contrast tone was the most preferred combination by both groups, whereas it was perceived as more modern and less warm by Koreans. Relationships between physical color variables and color emotions were quantified; these relationships were applied to establish a prediction model of color preference with tone combination types for each group. These results could help in making the design of fashion textiles more preference- and emotion-oriented for Korean and Chinese consumers.

피혁 폐기물을 재활용한 재생가죽의 내노화특성 연구 (A Study on Anti-Aging Properties of Recycled Leather Using Shaving Scrap by Applying Antioxidant)

  • 서은호;임성욱;이윤섭;김원주;박은영
    • 한국염색가공학회지
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    • 제35권3호
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    • pp.151-158
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    • 2023
  • In this study, we investigated the durability properties of the recycled leather using shaving scrap with antioxidant. Recycled leather sheets were manufactured by mixing shaving scrap and NB latex as a binder. HALS(Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer) and UVA(UV absorbers) were used as antioxidant. Mechanical properties such as hardness, tensile strength, elongation, tear strength and abrasion resistance were measured. Light aging resistance was evaluated using UV lamp and the degree of discoloration of the recycled leather sheets using a gray scale. In addition, to evaluate heat aging and UV aging, the degree of discoloration of the recycled leather sheets over time was measured using colorimeter. Washing fastness was evaluated on the degree of dyeing of recycled leather sheets for six type of multi-fiber woven fabrics (Acetate, Cotton, Nylon-66, Polyester, Acryl, Wool). To determine whether hazardous substances were detected in recycled leather sheets, the contents of arylamine and Cr 6+ were evaluated. As a result, when used in combination with antioxidant, the heat aging and light aging of recycled leather were improved and hazardous substance were not detected.

홍화의 홍색소 추출 용제의 종류에 따른 색상 변화 (Effect of Extraction Solvents on Color of the Dyed Fabrics with Safflower Red Colorants)

  • 손경희;신윤숙;류동일;최희;조아랑
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제32권3호
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    • pp.486-493
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    • 2008
  • 전통적인 알칼리 추출액인 콩대 잿물과 탄산칼륨수용액을 사용하여 홍색소를 추출하고 면, 마, 레이온, 견, 모, 그리고 나일론 직물에 염색하였다. 염색한 직물의 표면반사율과 염착량, 표면색을 측정하여 추출용제에 따른 차이를 비교 하였으며, 염색견뢰도를 평가하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 면, 마, 레이온, 그리고 견직물의 표면반사율 곡선은 추출용제에 따라 거의 같은 형태를 보였으며 최대흡수파장은 520nm에서 나타났다. 모와 나일론의 표면반사율 곡선형태는 추출용제간에 차이를 보였으며 최대흡수파장은 400nm에서 나타났다. 그리고 최대흡수파장 이외에 모는 520nm, 나일론은 540nm 파장부근에서 흡수대를 보였다. 2. 면, 마, 레이온, 견의 염착량은 잿물로 추출한 경우에 약간 더 높았으며, 모는 추출용매에 상관없이 비슷한 염착량을 보였고, 나일론은 탄산칼륨으로 추출한 경우에 약간 더 높게 나타났다. 3. 나일론 직물의 $L^{*}$값과 레이온의 $b^{*}$값을 제외하고는 탄산칼륨으로 추출하여 염색한 직물의 $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, 그리고 $C^{*}$ 값이 잿물 추출에서 보다 더 높게 나타났다. 단 $a^{*},\;b^{*},\;C^{*}$ 값은 모와 나일론을 제외하고는 추출용제간의 차이가 매우 미비하였다. 잿물과 탄산칼륨 추출액으로 염색한 직물의 색차는 면, 견, 마, 레이온, 모직물, 그리고 나일론 순으로 크게 나타났다. 4. 잿물과 탄산칼륨수용액 추출에 의한 색상계열 차이는 나타나지 않았으며, 면, 레이온, 나일론은 RP계열, 마와 견은 R계열, 그리고 모는 YR계열로 나타났다. 나일론을 제외하고는 탄산칼륨수용액으로 추출한 경우에 더 밝고 선명한 색상으로 염색되었다. 5. 추출용제에 따른 세탁견뢰도에는 차이가 없었으며, 나일론, 레이온, 그리고 면과 마의 순으로 우수하였고 이염도 거의 나타나지 않았다. 견과 모의 드라이클리닝 견뢰도도 매우 우수하였다. 일광견뢰도도 추출용제에 따른 차이를 보이지 않았으나, 매우 낮게 나타났다. 6. 색상과 견뢰도 등에 큰 차이가 없으므로 전통적인 잿물 대신 탄산칼륨수용액을 추출용제로 사용하는 것이 색의 재현성이나 공정상의 측면에서 색의 표준화연구에 더 효율적인 방법이라 사료된다.

천연염색물의 본래색 추정을 위한 변퇴색 경로에 관한 연구 -반복세탁을 중심으로- (Color Changes in Natural-Dyed Fabrics for Inference of the Original Color -through Repetitive Washing-)

  • 박명자;윤양노
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제4권3호
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    • pp.9-15
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    • 2002
  • Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL*A*B* color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

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일광노출에 의한 천연염직물의 색상변화에 관한 연구 (Color Changes of Natural-Dyed Fabrics under Sunlight)

  • 박명자;이연희;윤양노
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제6권3호
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    • pp.45-53
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    • 2004
  • Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

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