• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.135-141
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• 2015

Cell senescence can be identified by cellular changes that occur as a result of intrinsic aging and/or diseases. In case of skin cells, aging and cell senescence caused by external factors results in cessation of cell proliferation and cellular malfunction, which, in turn, accelerates skin aging. In this study, inhibition of cell senescence and enhancement of cell function were studied using cordycepin to evaluate the potential for skin anti-aging agent. By comparing with the number of senescence associated with ${\beta}$-galactosidase (SA-${\beta}$-gal) positive cells in young and replicative aged human fibroblasts, it was found that replicative aged cells showed higher expression of ${\beta}$-galactosidase. Treatment of cordycepin - known as an anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory agent - reduced ${\beta}$-galactosidase expression in senescent cells and enhanced cell survival in serum-free culture condition. Cordycepin also showed superb inhibition of ROS, which is another indicator of cell senescence. The results of this study proved the anti-aging effect of cordycepin on human fibroblasts and also proposed a possibility of its use as an anti-aging cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2008

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer's needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol(AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This 'Maltese cross' appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension(3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization(less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.99-105
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• 2021

This study was conducted to identify the efficacy related to skin barrier functions such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, cornified envelope formation and the alleviation effect of keratinocyte damage caused by S. aureus using the callus extract, which was induced and extracted from the leaves of Gynostemma pentaphyllum in Ulleungdo Island. In order to confirm the anti-inflammatory effect of the G. pentaphyllum callus extract on the skin, the expression of inflammatory cytokines was investigated in primary epidermal keratinocytes (HEKa) activated with PAR-2 agonist, and the G. pentaphyllum callus extract showed IL-8, IL-25, and TSLP production inhibitory effect. β-Hexosaminidase assay using RBL-2H3 cells was performed to confirm the anti-allergic efficacy, and G. pentaphyllum callus extract showed the effect of inhibiting the release of β-hexosaminidase. In addition, G. pentaphyllum callus extract showed the cornified envelope formation effect in HaCaT cells, and through the co-culture experiment with HaCaT cells and S. aureus, it showed alleviation effect of keratinocyte damage caused by S. aureus. Therefore, G. pentaphyllum callus extract is considered to be a useful cosmetic material for improving skin barrier with anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and alleviation effect of keratinocyte damage caused by S. aureus.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.161-169
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• 2018

This study aimed to evaluate seaweed polysaccharide extracts as a cosmetic material. To assess anti-microbial efficacy, Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) was treated with seaweed polysaccharide extracts and zones of inhibition were measured. In addition, the anti-inflammatory effect was confirmed in RAW 264.7cells, and seaweed polysaccharide extracts was applied to the dorsal skin of Sprague-Dawley (SD) rats to evaluate single-dose toxicity. As a results, seaweed polysaccharide extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity at concentrations up to $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ in skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, when S. aureus was treated with 1% seaweed polysaccharide extracts, clear zones of $1.52{\pm}0.34cm$ formed, confirming sufficient anti-microbial activity. When RAW 264.7 cells were treated with seaweed polysaccharide extracts extract, nitric oxide (NO) production decreased in a concentration-dependent manner and the production of inflammation-related cytokines, such as interleukin 1 beta ($IL1{\beta}$), tumor necrosis factor alpha ($TNF{\alpha}$), and prostaglandin E2(PGE2), decreased. When seaweed polysaccharide extracts extract was applied at various concentrations to rats, symptoms did not change for more than 14 d, and there was no change in body or organ weights. In conclusion we found that seaweed polysaccharide extracts is not cytotoxic and has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, it is suitable for use as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.243-252
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• 2015

Melanosome, the pigment granule in melanocyte, determines the color of skin when it moves into the keratinocyte. Inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte results in skin depigmentation. Protease activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) is involved in signal transduction systems via cell membrane and increases the melasome transfer when it is activated by cleavage of their extracellular amino acid sequence by trypsin or by a peptide such as SLIGKV. Here, we showed that lobaric acid inhibited PAR-2 activation and affected the mobilization of $Ca2^+$. The uptake of fluorescent microspheres and isolated melanosomes from melan-a melanocytes to keratinocytes induced by SLIGKV were inhibited by lobaric acid. Also, confocal microscopy studies illustrated a decreased melanosome transfer to keratinocytes in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture system by lobaric acid. In addition, lobaric acid induced visible skin lightening effect in human skin tissue culture model, melanoderm$^{(R)}$. Our data suggest that lobaric acid could be an effective skin lightening agent that works via regulation of phagocytic activity of keratinocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.221-225
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• 2004

The root of Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer has been used as a traditional anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent in the Orient. However, it is still unknown which component of ginseng is effective at suppressing wrinkle formation. Recently at least twenty ginsenosides regarded as the main active ingredients of ginseng have been isolated. Among them, we examined the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 on dermal ECM metabolism to elucidate the mechanism of anti-wrinkle by ginseng. In our study, to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of the ginsenoside Rg3, ECM component and growth factor in dennis were evaluated by ELISA assay. Ginsenoside Rg3 was found to stimulate type I procollagen and fibronectin (FN) biosynthesis in a dose-dependent manner in normal human fibroblast culture (p < 0.05, n =3), and dose-dependently enhance TGF- ${\beta}$1 level (p < 0.05, n =3). In RT-PCR analysis mRNA level of c-Jun, a member of AP-1 transcription factor, was reduced by ginsenoside Rg3 in normal human fibroblast culture. These results indicate that ginsenoside Rg3 stimulates type I collagen and FN synthesis through the changes of TGF - ${\beta}$1 and AP-1 expression in fibroblasts.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.683-691
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to measure the yield and to evaluate the physiological activity of Cannabis sativa seed(Hemp seed) extracts extracted using a density fluctuation supercritical carbon dioxide for each temperature condition-30℃(HSSE30), 45℃(HSSE45), 60℃(HSSE60), and to enable dissolution of the poorly water-soluble extracts by liposome formulation and to enhance the skin permeability. As a result of the yield measurement, HSSE60 showed the highest yield, and in the antioxidant activities, HSSE45 had the highest total polyphenol content, and showed the highest DPPH, ABTS+ radical scavenging activities at the highest concentration of the extracts. As a result of the antimicrobial susceptibility testing, a clear zone appeared only in the Propionibateium acnes strain. It was confirmed that particle size was reduced and the absolute value of the zeta potential increased in the case of the formulation in which the extracts were in liposomes than in the formulation in which the extracts were dissolved in deionized water, and the skin permeability was improved. Based on these experimental results, we confirmed the possibility of using the hemp seed supercritical carbon dioxide extracts, a poorly water-soluble extract, can be applied as a functional natural material for cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.17 no.6 s.86
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• pp.816-821
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• 2007

This study was carried out to investigate the whitening effect of mycelial culture broth of P. japonica in the mulberry leaf extract. The culture broth inhibited melanin synthesis in vitro in the concentration dependent manner of 10 to 50%. The mulberry leaf extract itself has a cytotoxicity to the mouse melanoma cell, B16BL6 with the value of IC$_{50}$ of 7% concentration. But the culture broth of P. japonica in the mulberry leaf extract did not show any cytotoxicity up to 50%. Therefore, we concluded the mycelial culture broth of P. japonica in the extract of mulberry leaf can be used as a whitening cosmetic resource.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.1157-1157
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• 2001

Yeast, Kurtzurnanomyces sp. I-11, produces biosurfactant, mannosyl erythritol lipid (MEL), from soya oil. The properties of biosurfactant MEL include low-toxicity and high biodegradability. MEL provides new possibilities for a wide range of industrial applications, especially food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical fields and chemicals for biotechnology. In the fermentation process, techniques of measuring and controlling substrates and products are important to obtain high productivity with optimum concentrations of substrate and product in the culture broth. The measurement system for the concentrations of soya oil and MEL in the fermentation process was developed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). Soya oil and MEL in the culture broth were extracted with ethyl acetate and NIR spectra was carried out between the second derivative NIR spectral data at 1312 and 2040 nm and MEL concentrations obtained using a thin-layer chromatography with a flame-ionization detector (TLC/FID) method. A calibration equation for soya oil was results of the validation of the calibration equation, good agreement was observed between the results of the TLD/FID method and those of the NIRS method for both constituents. NIR method was applied to the measurement of the concentrations of MEL and soya oil in the practical fermentation and good results were obtained. The study indicates that NIRS is a useful method for measurement of the substrate and product in the glycolipid fermentation.