• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.251-262
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• 2007

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Aspalathus linearis extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis were in the order: 50 % ethanol extract ($11.50\;{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction ($8.47\;{\mu}g/mL$) < ethylacetate fraction ($4.76\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Aspalathus linearis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were ethylacetate fraction ($OSC_{50},\;4.58\;{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction ($2.20\;{\mu}g/mL$) < 50 % ethanol extract ($1.09\;{\mu}g/mL$). 50 % Ethanol extract showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Aspalathus linearis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly 50 % ethanol extract exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 272.00 min at $50\;{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Aspalathus linearis extracts, showed 3 bands in TLC and 3 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm). Three components were identified as luteolin (composition ratio, 18.24 %), quercetin (58.79), and kaempferol (22.97). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Aspalathus linearis extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 9 peaks, which were identified as isoorientin (composition ratio, 14.71 %), orientin (28.84 %), vitexin (5.63 %), rutin and isovitexin (12.73 %), hyperoside (9.24 %), isoquercitrin (5.40 %), luteolin (1.48 %), quercetin (17.61 %) and kaempferol (4.59 %) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase ($IC_{50},\;9.08\;{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Aspalathus linearis can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Aspalathus linearis extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.99-132
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• 1992

Polypeptide has been used broadly as an active ingredient in cosmetics We thought it is very important to investigate the adsorption behavior of polypeptide in order to pre-estimate the effect of these polypeptides. For the study of polypeptide adsorption, we have investigated complex formation of basic homopolypeptides, poly(L-proline) Form I [PLP(I)], Form II [PLP(II)] and poly(4-hydroxy-L-proline) (PHLP) with acidic homopolypeptides, poly(L-glutamic acid) (PLGA), poly(D-glutamic acid) (PDGA) and poly(L-aspartic acid) (PLAA) through hydrogen bonding in a hydroalcoholic medium with viscometer, 1ight scatter, pH meter and circular dicroism (CD). The polypeptides used in this study have helical structure in some conditions. The result exhibited that al 1 the complexes were formed as the composition of basic/acidic homopolypeptide : L:2 irrespective of the complex systems used. A more favorable complex is formed in the PLP(II)-PLGA system than PHLP-PLGA because PLP(II) has a more flexible helical conformation, whereas PHLP has a more rigid helical conformation. The right-handed helix PLGA formed the complex favorably and quickly with the left-handed helix PLP(II), whereas the left-handed helix PDGA formed the complex favorably with the right-handed helix PLP(I). The effect of side chain of the acidic homopolypeptides on the complexation was also studied. The result showed that more favorable condition for the complexation was PLGA-PLP(II) system which has longer side chain at acidic homopolypeptide than PLAA - PLP(II). All the above facts were well supported by CD measurement for the complex systems. By the CD spectra for the complexes we could deduce the conformational change of each homopolypeptide in the complexes On the basis of the above results, we performed the adsorption test of PLP(I, II) and PHLP on the hair having a left-handed helix. The adsorption amount of each polypeptide was analyzed by HPLC. The result showed that PLP(I) was adsorbed more than PLP(II), PLP(II) was adsorbed more than PHLP on the hair. On adsorbing polypeptides having a helical structure on the hair through hydrogen bonding, it could be concluded that the helical polypeptides having the opposite directional structure to the hair are adsorbed more than those having the same directional structure with the hair and also the polypeptides having a flexible conformation are adsorbed more than those having a rigid conformation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.25-35
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase of Geranium nepalense extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(15.0 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). ${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Geranium nepalense extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescense assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract($OSC_{50},\;0.23{\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Deglycosylated flavonoid fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Geranium nepalense extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 676.7 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase($IC_{50}$, 70.0 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase ($IC_{50}$, 19.9 ${\mu}g/mL$) was very high. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl-acetate fraction among the Geranium nepalense extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (370 nm). Two components were identified as quercetin(composition ratio, 15.3%), kaempferol(82.8%). These results indicate that extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Geranium nepalense extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.43-49
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• 2005

Recently, according as people who have sensitive skin increase, we've been giving more importance to the safety of cosmetics. Especially, preservative is known to be one of the main stimuli which cause side-effects of cosmetics. However, there have been few reports describing cell cytotoxicity, skin penetration, oil-aqueous phase partition, anti-microbial activity of preservatives and their correlation with skin irritation. The study is aimed to develop low irritable preservative system with phenoxyethanol, one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics, considering various factors mentioned above. According to our results of cell cytotoxicity against human normal fibroblasts by means of MTT assay, phenoxyethanol showed the lowest cytotoxicity when compared to other preservatives tested (cytotoxicity: pro-pylparaben > butylparaben > ethylparaben > methylparaben > triclosan > phenoxyethanol), but human patch test for assessing shin primary irritation revealed that phenoxyethanol has higher skin irritation than methylparaben and triclosan. We performed in vitro skin penetration test using horizontal Franz diffusion cells with skin membrane prepared from hairless mouse (5 ${\~}$ 8 weeks, male) to evaluate the rate of skin penetration of preservatives. From the results, we found that the higher irritable property of phenoxyethanol in human skin correlates with its predominant permeability (skin penetration: phenoxyethanol > methylparaben > ethylparaben > propylparaben > butylfaraben > triclosan). Therefore, we made an effort to reduce skin permeability of phenoxyethanol and found that not only the rate of skin penetration of phenoxyethanol but also its skin irritation is dramatically reduced in formulas containing oils with low polarity. In the experiments to investigate the effect of oil polarity on the oil-aqueous phase partition of phenoxyethanol, more than $70\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in aqueous phase in formulas containing oils with low polarity, while about $70 {\~} 90\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in oil phase in formulas containing oils with high polarity. Also, in aqueous phase phenoxyethanol showed greater anti-microbial activity. Conclusively, it appears that we can develop less toxic preservative system with reduced use dosage of phenox-yethanol and its skin penetration by changing oil composition in formulas.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.51-58
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• 2005

Alkyl ethoxy sulfate type surfactants, widely used in commercial cleansers, are easily adsorbed to skin to often cause skin irritation and inflammation if not thoroughly rinsed nut. In order to replace or complement existing surfactants, we screened the existing surfactants through protein denaturation method, cell cytotoxicity assay and human IL-1$\alpha$ assay, etc. Fourteen surfactants have been chosen from among too irritant anionic, cationic and/or zwitter-ionic ones and investigated for cell cytotoxicity in human fibroblast cell lines using monolayer culture with the thirteen commercially available cleansers for sensitive skin. From these results, we selected 5 surfactants and 2 commercial cleansers (names not shown), such as sodium laureth sulfate (anionic), sodium cocoyl isethionate (anionic), sodium lauroamphoacetate (zwitter-ionic), and cocamidopropyl betaine (zwitter-ionic), alkyl polyglycoside (non-ionic). 20 formulations were made out of 5 surfactants and five of them were chosen through a protein denaturation method (lower than 3 M sodium dodecyl sulfate solution ($13.2\%$)), cell cytotoxicity and human patch test. These five selected formulations containing preservatives were compared to two selected commercial cleansers by cell cytotoxicity and human IL-1$\alpha$ ELISA assay using dermal equivalent. Finally, we selected the best formulation. To this formulation, fructan ($3\%$ or $5\%$) or/and portulaca extract ($3\%$ or $5\%$) well known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects were added and investigated for cell cytotoxicity using dermal equivalent. In cytotoxicity assay using dermal equivalent, two formulations containing $5\%$ fructan and $3\%$ or $5\%$ portulaca extract were less toxic than the others. In cytotoxicity assay and human IL-1$\alpha$ ELISA using 3D culture, the selected formulation containing $5\%$ fructan and $5\%$ portulaca extract showed better efficiency than those of the others and 2 commercial cleansers. As a result, we could develop a low irritant and safe liquid cleanser.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2008

In the previous study, the anti-oxidant activity of oxtract/fraction of Sueada aspparagoides(SA) and the stability test for the cream containing SA extract were investigated respectively[1,2]. In this study, the components of SA extract were analyzed by TLC, HPLC, and LC/ESI-MS/MS, $^1H$-NMR. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of SA extract revealed 5 bands $(SA1{\sim}SA5)$. HPLC chromatogram of aglycone fractions obtained from deglycoylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction showed 2 bands (SAA 2 and SAA 1), which were identified as quercetin (composition ratio, 16.88%) and kaempferol (83.12%) in the order of elution time. Among 5 bands of TLC chromatogram, 4 bands $(SA2{\sim}SA5)$ also were Identified as kaempferol-3-O-glucoside (SA 2), quercetin-3-O-glucoside (SA3), kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside (SA 4), quercetin-3-O-rutinoside (SA 5) by LC/ESI-MS/MSMS/MS. respectively. The spectrum generated for SAA 1 by LC/ESI-MS/MS in the negative ion mode also gave the ion corresponding to the deprotonated aglycone $[M-H]^-$ (285m/z), the $^1H$-NMR spectrum contained signals [${\delta}$ 6.19 (1H, d, J=1.8Hz, H-6), ${\delta}$ 6.44 (1H, d, J=1.8Hz, H-8), ${\delta}$ 6.92 (2H, d, J=9.0Hz, H-3', 5'), ${\delta}$ 8.04 (2H, d, J=9.0Hz, H-2', 6', thus SAA 1 was identified as kaempferol. SAA 2 yielded the deprotonated agycone ion $[M-H]^-$ (301m/z), $^1H$-NMR spectrum showed signals [${\delta}$ 6.20 (1H, d, J=2.0Hz, H-6), ${\delta}$ 6.42 (1H, d, J=2.0Hz, H-8), ${\delta}$ 6.90 (1H, d, J=8.6Hz, H-5'), ${\delta}$ 7.55 (1H, dd, J=8.6, 2.2Hz, H-6'), ${\delta}$ 7.69 (1H, d, J=2.2Hz, H-2', thus SAA 2 was Identified as quercetin. In conclusion, with the anti-oxidant activity and the stability test reported previously, component analysis of SA extracts could be applicable to new cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.278-284
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• 2020

Magnolia kobus is known to exert various biological effects, such as antioxidant and hypnotic activity. In this study, we investigated the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity of M. kobus essential oil extracted using steam distillation. Its antimicrobial activity was tested against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa by the paper disk diffusion and minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) methods. Its anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated by measuring its inhibition ratio on the production of nitric oxide (NO) and PGE₂ in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW264.7 cells. Its composition was analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The results showed that M. kobus essential oil exhibited excellent antibacterial activity against S. aureus, with a clear zone of 18 mm and an MIC value of 0.25 mg/ml. Its clear zones against P. aeruginosa and E. coli were 14 mm and 17 mm, respectively, while its MIC values were 1 mg/ml and 0.5 mg/ml, respectively. The essential oil exhibited no cytotoxicity to the RAW264.7 cells at a concentration of 500 ㎍/ml while showing NO (37.7%) and PGE₂ inhibition (24.0%). Its three main fragrance ingredients identified were 3-carene (77.07%), β-elemene (6.92%), and caryphyllene (2.86%). The results suggest that M. kobus essential oil has potential as a cosmetic functional material with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.99-104
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• 2010

This study was conducted to investigate the physiological activities of extracts from Suaeda japonica harvested in different season for its possibility as a functional material in food or cosmetic composition. The total mineral content of S. japonica harvested in summer was about 89.8 g/kg, and it comprised a little more content than one in winter (86.7 g/kg). The Na content of S. japonica did not show a remarkable contrast on harvest season whereas the K and Ca contents of summer were decreased to half or increased to double in winter. In addition, the antioxidative activity of each extract from S. japonica changed depending on harvest season. For S. japonica harvested in summer, the ethyl acetate extract showed the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity, but in winter the butanol extract fraction had the highest value. However, FRAP values were the highest in butanol extracts from S. japonica harvested in summer and winter. Total phenolic contents in the extracts were in proportion to the antioxidative activities. From the tyrosinase inhibition assay and melanogenesis with B16BL6, the hexane extracts from both seasons had shown the highest whitening effects. These results suggest that the extraction methods should be optimized depending on harvest season to utilize the S. japonica as functional component source.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.374-384
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• 2020

This study was carried out to investigate the food value of Dae Hong(Prunus mume Siebold et Zucc), and also to analyzed contents of general component, free sugar, organic acid, amino acid, mineral element, and vitamins. The carbohydrate of Dae Hog showed the highest content of 46.8±0.92%, followed by crude protein(18.9±0.01%), moisture content(11.8±0.13%), and crude fiber, crude fat, ash(5.7±0.94~6.7±0.52%). In case of free sugar contents, 5 types were found. Most of them were mannitol and fructose. 6 mineral contents were also found, too; K and P showed the highest level. The total phenol content was 615.99±0.52 mg/100 g. Including seven different type of essential amino acids, the total amino acid content of Dae Hong was 121.42 mg/g. These results point out the potential of Dae Hong as innovative food for health or to be incorporated in new products as natural food preservatives and supplements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.797-804
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• 2005

Physiological activity of citrus essential oil (CEO) was determined to examine possible use of the food processing by-product as a functional material for food and cosmetic composition. The effect of gamma irradiation on the change of physiological activity also investigated at 0, 10 and 20 kGy. Limonene contents of CEO was $88.3\pm1.30\%$. Electron donating ability of CEO was $69\%$. Lipid oxidation was retarded by CEO. CEO showed antimicrobial activity against 1 yeast,4 molds and 4 bacteria species tested. More than $80\%$ of inhibition of cancer cell growth was presented by CEO using A549, HT29, HepG2, B16F10 and G361 cells at a 500 ppm level. Irradiation of CEO did not affect any physiological functions. A Salmonella mutagenicity assay indicated that the 20 kGy irradiated CEO did not show any mutagenicity Therefore, CEO, which is a major by-product in citrus processing, could be used as a functional material in various application.