• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.38-44
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• 1998

The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of two UV filters from caprylic capryl triglyceride (oil), oil in water (O/W) and water in oil (W/O) emulsions, were evaluated. We selected octyl moth-oxycinnamate (OMC) broadly used in cosmetics and polymeric sunscreen agent (PSA, average MW: 2,000) synthesized by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride, as model UV filters. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area:1.766cm) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used. Oil or emulsion containing UV filters was applied in the donor compartment. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with fe-male guinea pigs (8-10 weeks,350-400 g). In oil and emulsions, the skin permeability and the skin primary irritation of PSA were lower than those of OMC. The skin permeability of UV filters was lower when they were in oil-in-water emulsion (OIW) than water-in-oil emulsion (W/O). We suggest that O/W system would be more useful when compared with W/O system, and PSA could be a good candidate for a future sunscreen agent for reducing the skin irritation.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.231-237
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• 2012

In order to use the Schizandra chinensis seed oil as a basic material of cosmetic component, the research was done by analyzed components of Schizandra chinensis seed oil and evaluation it's stability with GC and GC/MSD. As a result, it's main component were showed as palmitic acid and oleic acid. It has excellent stability because it's ingredients did not change under the heat. Also, the antioxidant effect used DPPH(1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) test method, indicated higher radical scavenging ability compare to widely-use macademia nut oil and olive oil. Collagen synthesis effect also appeared outstanding. Therefore, the Schizandra chinensis seed oil was determined that it has possibility to be used well for cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.237-246
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• 2014

Multiple emulsions, called multiphase emulsions, include water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type and oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type emulsions. In cosmetic industry, they are used to stabilize active ingredients but the applicability of the multiple emulsions is limited because of low stability and difficulty of manufacturing. In this study, we investigated a two-step emulsification process for a W/O/W type emulsion. We also investigated the change of stability using different emulsifiers and oil polarity. The results suggested that polyglyceryl-10 stearate, as a main emulsifier, played an important role in the stability and the formation of the multiple emulsions.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.240-247
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop a method to evaluate solubility parameter interactions of cosmetic ingredients in formulations. This experimentation relates to the fabrication of new multi-layer cleansing oil which can remove make-up products such as lipstick, foundation, mascara, eye shadow, etc., and also can wash away dirt and sebum from the skin just in one stage process. Solubility parameter and specific gravity of various cosmetic ingredients are measured to explain the cleanliness of interface, detergency of make-up cosmetics on the skin surface. The results suggest that it is possible for cosmetic chemists to use solubility parameter of cosmetic materials for fabrication of new formulation of 3-layer cleansing oil.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.233-238
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• 2000

We developed a quantitative method for evaluating CEP(color expression power) in eye shadow. This method enables the cosmetic industry to measure CEP on an interval scales, so it is more accurate and reproducible than previous panel tests. Oil, colorants, Pigments and pearls are major factors affecting CEP in eye shadow formulas. We studied the oil effect on CEP using our unique method so CEP could be improved. We believe this method can be applied to other color cosmetics as well. In conclusion, we expected this method to be useful to formulator who want to improve the color expression power in color cosmetics. Additionally, we hope it will contribute toward developing the experiential know-how about color to scientific knowledge.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.331-339
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• 2023

In this study, in vitro and clinical studies were conducted to assess the anti-inflammatory effects and skin improvement effects, including moisturizing, sebum secretion-regulating, skin barrier function enhancing, and soothing of Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil. In in vitro study using cultured human epidermal keratinocytes induced with inflammation by lipopolysaccharide, significant decreases in inflammatory cytokines interleukin-6, interleukin-8, and tumor necrosis factor alpha was revealed, indicating the anti-inflammatory effects of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil. Additionally, the results of clinical study on subjects with sensitive skin demonstrated improved skin hydration, regulation of sebum secretion, enhanced skin barrier function, as well as amelioration of skin redness and acne, indicating positive effects on overall skin conditions after application of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil containing test product for 4 weeks. Results of this study demonstrated the potential of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil as an ingredient for cosmetic, targeting consumers with sensitive skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.105-110
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• 1998

In the make-up product, Eye-shadow products have several purposes of enhancing product quality such as providing the beauty (variation of shape, clean appearance), feeling, continuity and adhesion. In this paper, newly developed wet type back injection press process is introduced so as to increase higher value products which providing various the beauty. The solvent takes an essential role to provide the fluidity of the powder bulk during the pressed-process of wet type pressed product. In this study, the effect of solvent in the oil binder was investigated, And the higher quality condition of the wet type pressed product was built to apply cosmetic preparation. Firstly, the system was designed powder phase as non treated pigment. The oil binder phase is categorized as hydrocarbons(Mineral oil, Squalane), Silicones(Methicone, Dimethicone ), esters (Octyldodecanol, Octyl Dodecyl Myristate). The solvent phase used was C 7-8 isoparaffin and Isopropyl Alcohol. The interaction of oil binder and solvent is investigated by measuring mass of final oil binder and the each solubility parameter. It was found that the higher the solubility the higher the degree of change in the final composition of the oil binder. In order to maintain the quality of the final product, the solvent used in pressed-process should be hydrophobic with oil binder.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.209-218
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• 2015

Once powder base makeup products are applied to the skin, the products are formed a film and attached on the skin for 8 to 12 hours. The makeup film is deformed by secretions such as sweat and sebum secreted from the skin. Thus, durability of the film is an important quality factor in the makeup and its evaluation is also important. In this study, characteristics of the semi-finished powder products such as water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent and oil repellent were evaluated in a number of ways. Also, simple methods, which are not affected by evaluation conditions such as a difference between sweat and sebum secretion, temperature and humidity, were examined to predict the durability of the products. We measured water absorption, oil absorption, water repellent and oil-repellent properties of semifinished product by tablet, capillary and dipping method and then compared with the data of color difference meter and ROBO skin analyzer. Results showed that the durability of powder base makeup products was associated with more oil absorption and water-repellent characteristics than water absorption and oil-repellent. Oil absorption characteristics by tablet and capillary method and water-repellent characteristics by dipping method provides a simple and quick method to precdict the durability of the makeup products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.8-12
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• 1984

Increasing the oil volume in the oil : water mixtures using isopropyl myristate, oleic acid as oils, the solubilities of methyl, propyl and butyl parabens and the MICs (minimum hibitory concentrations) to E. coli were increased. But in liquid paraffin, the solubility was reversed. The relation between MIC and solubility of parabens had constant factor of 0.7 as saturation fraction percent. The solubility of methyl paraben was crossed over in those of propyl and butyl parabens, when the oil volume was increased. When the oil was used over the cross-over point, methyl paraven was useful to preserve the systems, and below the cross-over point the more lipophilic propyl and/or butyl parabens were effective.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.20-40
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• 1996

The oil in water type ME of 4 component system was composed with POE monoalkyl ether and POE sorbitan monoalkyl ester as surfactant, saturated hydrocarbon, side chain structure and aromatic structure as oil, and glycerine as cosurfactant using high pressure homogenizer. The objective of this study was to examine the role of surfactant and oil structure on droplet size and stability. The experimental results showed that the droplet size was smaller with bigger polarity of oil, less hydrocarbon, longer hydrophilic chain of surfactant and higher concentration of glycerine. SQ and LP systems showed very stable but AB and ISB system unstable microemulsion.