• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.203-208
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• 2009

Doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste) is a unique fermented food in Korea. It has been traditionally manufactured from soybeans, by Jang Yang process. We focused on the newly formed compound in highly aged Doenjang and its biological activity. One new o-dihydroxyisoflavone, 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone and two known o-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives were isolated from 5-year-old Doenjang and evaluated as potent antioxidant and whitening effect by comparing with other known isoflavone. 7,8,4'-Trihydroxyisoflavone (compound 1), 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (compound 2) and 6,7,4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (compound 3) inhibited DPPH (diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) formation by 50 % at a concentration of $21.5{\pm}0.2$, $28.7{\pm}0.4$ and $32.6{\pm}0.6$ ($IC_{50}$) respectively, whereas daidzein showed weak DPPH radical scavenging activity. In superoxide scavenging effect were measured in one assay. Compound 1 ($IC_{50}=18.10{\pm}0.2{\mu}M$) and 2 ($IC_{50}=10.54{\pm}0.4{\mu}M$) show significant inhibitory activity and greater effect than L-ascorbic acid. But compound 3 and daidzein showed lower inhibition activity. Also, o-dihydroxyisoflavone derivatives evaluated as potent inhibitors on tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in melan-a cells. Compound 1 ($IC_{50}=11.21{\pm}0.2{\mu}M$), compound 2 ($IC_{50}=5.23{\pm}0.6{\mu}M$) exhibited significant inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, those compounds are significantly suppressed the cellular melanin formation by 50 % at a concentration of $12.23{\pm}0.7{\mu}M$ (1) and $7.83{\pm}0.7{\mu}M$ (2). This result suggests that 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone from highly aged Doenjang could be used as an active ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.95-101
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• 2020

Psoriasis is an autoimmune skin disease that is accompanied by hyper proliferation of the epidermis, erythema of various sizes, and ulceration. However, the mechanism of the development of psoriasis dermatitis is unclear. Recently, it is known that the inflammatory cytokines and Th17 cells as well as chemokine (CC motif) ligand 20 (CCL20) are involved in the process of keratinocytes hyper-differentiation, which is common in psoriasis dermatitis. Therefore, we studied the effects of yakuchinone-A, an active ingredient of Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel known for its anti-inflammatory activity, to improve psoriasis dermatitis. First, cytotoxicity of yakuchinone-A was observed in cell counting kit-8 assay and not observed in 10 ㎍/mL concentration on the human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. Yakuchinone-A in the presence of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) on HaCaT cells inhibited mRNA expression of IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α by up to 61.4±7.5, 23.6±1.5, 46.0±4.8%. CCL20, a chemokine that attracts immune cells such Th17 cells to the inflammation location, was also significantly suppressed by yakuchinone-A. In addition, IκB and STAT3 phosphorylation involved in the CCL20 expression was inhibited by yakuchinone-A in a concentration-dependent manner up to the level of 79.1±5.0, 80.8±2.3%. Furthermore, yakuchinone-A downregulated CCL20 mRNA expression level on IL-17A-activated HaCaT cells as a concentration-dependent manner. Based on these results, yakuchinone-A is expected to be developed as a new material for improving psoriasis dermatitis in the future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.99-132
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• 1992

Polypeptide has been used broadly as an active ingredient in cosmetics We thought it is very important to investigate the adsorption behavior of polypeptide in order to pre-estimate the effect of these polypeptides. For the study of polypeptide adsorption, we have investigated complex formation of basic homopolypeptides, poly(L-proline) Form I [PLP(I)], Form II [PLP(II)] and poly(4-hydroxy-L-proline) (PHLP) with acidic homopolypeptides, poly(L-glutamic acid) (PLGA), poly(D-glutamic acid) (PDGA) and poly(L-aspartic acid) (PLAA) through hydrogen bonding in a hydroalcoholic medium with viscometer, 1ight scatter, pH meter and circular dicroism (CD). The polypeptides used in this study have helical structure in some conditions. The result exhibited that al 1 the complexes were formed as the composition of basic/acidic homopolypeptide : L:2 irrespective of the complex systems used. A more favorable complex is formed in the PLP(II)-PLGA system than PHLP-PLGA because PLP(II) has a more flexible helical conformation, whereas PHLP has a more rigid helical conformation. The right-handed helix PLGA formed the complex favorably and quickly with the left-handed helix PLP(II), whereas the left-handed helix PDGA formed the complex favorably with the right-handed helix PLP(I). The effect of side chain of the acidic homopolypeptides on the complexation was also studied. The result showed that more favorable condition for the complexation was PLGA-PLP(II) system which has longer side chain at acidic homopolypeptide than PLAA - PLP(II). All the above facts were well supported by CD measurement for the complex systems. By the CD spectra for the complexes we could deduce the conformational change of each homopolypeptide in the complexes On the basis of the above results, we performed the adsorption test of PLP(I, II) and PHLP on the hair having a left-handed helix. The adsorption amount of each polypeptide was analyzed by HPLC. The result showed that PLP(I) was adsorbed more than PLP(II), PLP(II) was adsorbed more than PHLP on the hair. On adsorbing polypeptides having a helical structure on the hair through hydrogen bonding, it could be concluded that the helical polypeptides having the opposite directional structure to the hair are adsorbed more than those having the same directional structure with the hair and also the polypeptides having a flexible conformation are adsorbed more than those having a rigid conformation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.185-198
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• 2019

Human tissue undergoes aging by the oxidant damage via structural change and its physical properties. The skin aging process is well known and many evaluations have been conducted. However, studies on hair aging were relatively few and thus care for aging hair is difficult. This study aims to fabricate an aging hair and identify anti-aging effect with known ingredient in anti-aging. First of all, physical properties of aging hair of age 60s by physiologically intrinsic factors were compared to those of the hair made by various extrinsic factors such as several chemical reactions and iteration numbers of the treatments. The extrinsic aging hair of this study relates to the less amount of lipid and to the hair of perm treated once accordingly, wherein several physical properties, preferably comprise roughness and tensile strength, present a novel concept of the intrinsic aging hair. The penetration of peptide into the aging hair was leading the extrinsic hair towards more structurally directed a younger hair. In addition to the structural change, the penetration of the peptide enhanced texture and tensile strength of the aging hair. These patterns have been also found in addition of propolis. For the first time, these qualitative studies exhibit that indeed our extrinsic aging hair well describes the anti-aging efficacy as a receptor for a cross-linker and the ingredients of human hair.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.185-192
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• 2021

Psoriasis is a chronic intractable skin disease caused by various inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6, CXCL8, TNF-α, and IFN-γ, as well as IL-17A secreted from Th17 cells and is characterized by hyperkeratosis and chronic inflammation of the epidermis. Brazilin, an active ingredient of Caesalpinia sappan L., is known to exert antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, and function in skin barrier improvement. In particular, it was shown as a potential material for treating psoriasis in a tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α-stimulated HaCaT keratinocyte model. However, the direct regulation of the C-C motif chemokine ligand (CCL) 20, a psoriasis-inducing factor, by brazilin has not been reported. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the suppression of CCL20 and the regulatory mechanism by brazilin using a psoriasis-like model. First, brazilin downregulated CCL20 and CXCL8 in IL-17A-stimulated HaCaT cells in a concentration-dependent manner by inhibiting signal transducer and transcription (STAT)3 phosphorylation. In addition, brazilin significantly inhibited the expression of psoriasis-related genes CXCL8, CCL20, IL-1, IL-6, and TNF-α in TNF-α/IL-17A/IFN-γ-stimulated HaCaT cells. Moreover, brazilin also had a positive effect on improving the skin barrier in TNF-α/IL-17A/IFN-γ-stimulated HaCaT cells. The above results indicated that brazilin ultimately downregulated CCL20 expression by inhibiting STAT3 phosphorylation, and also suppressed the expression of psoriasis-induced cytokines. If the efficacy of brazilin in improving psoriasis is verified through animal models and clinical trials in the future, it may represent a potentially therapeutic substance for psoriasis patients.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2021

Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN) is a perennial plant belonging to the family Apiaceae. Its root has been utilized as a traditional medicine especially in Korea. This study was carried out to evaluate the potential use of extracts from AGN root parts as a cosmetic material. The dried AGN roots are divided into body (B), thick root (TkR), medium root(MR) and thin root (TnR) according to their diameter before cutting into medicine. B, TkR and MR of AGN are combined and used as medicinal herbs (MH). The extracts from AGN each root part (B, TkR, MR, TnR, MH) were used to test the effect on cell viability using MTS assay and to examine inhibitory effect on melanin accumulation in B16F10 melanoma cells. All extracts (50 - 200 ㎍/mL) from the each root part did not affect the cell viability. And inhibitory effect of all root extracts (200 ㎍/mL) on melanin accumulation was 12-19%. Especially, TnR showed similar inhibitory effect on melanin accumulation to MH. In addition, DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging activity were higher in the TnR extract compared to MH. This study showed that the TnR extract exhibit high inhibitory effect on melanin accumulation and antioxidant activity compared to MH, suggesting that TnR extract has potential as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.231-245
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• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.347-357
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• 2023

The succulent plant Aeonium sedifolium leaves contain several compounds that are of interest for their cosmetic uses on the skin. This study measured the inhibitory effects of enzyme production and antioxidant, astringent effects and skin wrinkles using Aeonium sedifolium leaves (ASL). The total phenolics compounds (TPC) content of ASL under optimal extraction conditions was 34.49 mg/g for hot water extract (ASLW) and 61.64 mg/g for 50% ethanol extract (ASLE). The ASLW and ASLE extracts were freeze-dried, powdered, and used as solids. TPC content, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazy (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, and 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylben-zothiazoline 6-sulfonate) (ABTS) radical inhibition of the ASL phenolics were tested. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of ASLW and ASLE were tested at a TPC of 100 ㎍/mL. ABTS radical inhibition showed antioxidant activity of 100.00% in ASLW and ASLE, and the antioxidant protection factor of ASLW and ASLE was 1.07 and 1.22, respectively. The thiobarbituric acid-reactive substance (TBARS) inhibitory activity of ASLW and ASLE was 77.00%. The elastase inhibitory activity of ASLE was 69.03%, and collagenase inhibition activity for ASLW and ASLE was 29.82% and 54.76%, respectively. The astringent effect of ASLE was 89.82% at a TPC of 200 ㎍/mL. Thus, we concluded that ASL has the potential as a functional cosmetic ingredient with anti-aging effects on the skin.

• Korean Journal of Clinical Laboratory Science
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2018

Chamaecyparis obtusa (CO) has recently been attracting attention because of its beneficial effects on skin allergies, atopic dermatitis, and skin diseases, such as acne and eczema. In the present study, the extract from CO leaf grown in Jangseong gun, Jeollanam-do, Korea was evaluated for its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic effects in vitro. The total polyphenol content of the CO leaf extract was $25.89{\pm}0.31mg$ gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g. Gas-chromatography mass-spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis revealed the presence of six compounds in the CO leaf extract: ${\alpha}-terpinene$ (3.03 mg/g), ${\alpha}-terpineol$ (9.48 mg/g), limonene (5.96 mg/g), borneol (59.78 mg/g), myrcene (4.85 mg/g), and sabinene (11.31 mg/g). The $RC_{50}$ values of the CO leaf extract for $H_2O_2$ and ABTS radical were $5.47{\pm}0.13mg/mL$ and $4.00{\pm}0.01mg/mL$, respectively. In addition, the CO leaf extract showed significant inhibitory effects on lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production in RAW 264.7 cells and IgE-induced release of ${\beta}-hexosaminidase$ (degranulation) in mast-cell like RBL-2H3 cells. The cell viability assay showed that the CO leaf extract ($100{\sim}800{\mu}g/mL$) did not affect the viability of human normal skin fibroblast CCD-986sk cells significantly. Overall, these results suggest that the CO leaf extract is a potential functional cosmetic ingredient that can exert anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic effects.