• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.4 s.59
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• pp.227-231
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• 2006

Wrinkle formation is mainly attributed to the environmental factors such as UV rays, air pollution, smoking and stress etc. Especially, UV rays induce premature skin aging which is characterized by deep wrinkle, leathery dryness etc. Recently, researches on the wrinkle formation and its prevention have been the main theme in cosmetics fields. We have studied the various plant extracts having anti-wrinkle effects and finally showed that Noni (Morinda citrifolia) extracts have the efficacy of promoting the type I collagen synthesis in normal human fibroblast, using PICP assay. We purified one active compound from Noni extracts and identified its structure. It was identified as 6,7-Dimethoxy-2H-1-Benzopyran-2-one; scopoletin by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR,$ IR, Mass analysis. Scopoletin increased collagen synthesis in a dose dependent manner (89.5% at $0.2{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the anti-aging effectiveness of the cream containing 3% noni extracsts, we performed the in vivo test with some female volunteers for 12 weeks. It reduced the signs of aging, especially face wrinkles. From these results, we conclude that the noni extracts could be used as an useful anti-wrinkle agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.75-79
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• 2006

In this study. we evaluated anti-aging activity of medical plants that protect the skin cell damage induced by UV irradiation. We have investigated diverse biological activities of Selaginella tamariscina as an anti-aging ingredient of cosmetics. S. tamariscina was found to show scavenging activities of radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) with the $IC_{50}$ values of $65.1{\mu}g/mL$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and $40.9 {\mu}g/mL$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. For testing intracellular ROS scavenging activity, the cultured human dermal fibroblasts were analyzed by increase in dichlorofluorescein (DCF) fluorescence upon exposure to UVB $20 mJ/cm^2$ after treatment of S. tamariscina. UVA-induced MMP-1 protein and mRNA expression in human dermal fibroblasts were reduced in a dose-dependent manner by S. tamariscina. Moreover, S. tamariscina inhibited MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts assayed by zymography and semi-quantitative RT-PCR. Taken together, these results suggest that S. tamariscina may act as an anti-aging agent by Increasing collagen and preventing the skin cell damage induced by UV irradiation, and imply that S. tamariscina nay be useful as a new ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.117-121
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• 2006

Although many studies have been performed to elucidate the molecular consequence of factors that regulate skin aging, little is known about the effect of green tea catechins except EGCG. The matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), can degrade matrix proteins and results in a collagen deficiency in photodamaged skin, are known to play an important role in photoaging. This study, investigated the effects of green tea catechins on the UVA-induced MMP-1 expression, activity of MMP-2 and synthesis of type I procollagen in human dermal fibroblasts. We examined eight catechins that naturally exist in green tea leaves and compared their efficacies among them. Most of catechins inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in dose dependent manner, and the levels were reduced, especially, 57.4 and 68.2% by treatment with $1{\mu}M$ of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and gallocatechin-3-gallate (GCG), respectively. Also, catechins significantly suppressed the activities of MMP-2. Catechins also induced the expression of type I procollagen, however, they acted only at the concentration below $1{\mu}M$ interestingly. Furthermore, when EGCG:GCG:ECG had the ratio of 0.5:1.5:.1.3, they presented the most effective on procollagen synthesis. Therefore, we concluded that catechins significantly inhibited MMPs and induced collagen synthesis. Taken together, all these results suggested that green tea catechins might be good natural materials act as an anti-photoaging and a skin-aging improving agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.243-252
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• 2015

Melanosome, the pigment granule in melanocyte, determines the color of skin when it moves into the keratinocyte. Inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte results in skin depigmentation. Protease activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) is involved in signal transduction systems via cell membrane and increases the melasome transfer when it is activated by cleavage of their extracellular amino acid sequence by trypsin or by a peptide such as SLIGKV. Here, we showed that lobaric acid inhibited PAR-2 activation and affected the mobilization of $Ca2^+$. The uptake of fluorescent microspheres and isolated melanosomes from melan-a melanocytes to keratinocytes induced by SLIGKV were inhibited by lobaric acid. Also, confocal microscopy studies illustrated a decreased melanosome transfer to keratinocytes in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture system by lobaric acid. In addition, lobaric acid induced visible skin lightening effect in human skin tissue culture model, melanoderm$^{(R)}$. Our data suggest that lobaric acid could be an effective skin lightening agent that works via regulation of phagocytic activity of keratinocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.297-305
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• 2014

Red ginseng (RG) contains specific ginsenosides (Rg2, Rg3) which show various pharmacological effects and absorption rate in the body better than panax ginseng. Therefore many people have been used it for health for a long time. Furthermore, many researchers have been studying its biological activities for a long times because fermentation generates lots of beneficial small molecules good for health. In this study, we fermented red ginseng with mycelium of Leatiporus sulphures var. miniatus for 7 days. As a result, we found that three ginsenosides Rg1, Re and Rb2 were decreased from 0.24, 0.25, 0.16 mg/g to 0.12, 0.1, 0.03 mg/g respectively HPLC analysis. In addition, we studied biological activities of fermented red ginseng (FRG) about skin ageing such as anti-inflammation, cell migration, anti-oxidation, collagen type 1 synthesis, and MMP-1 inhibition activities. As a result, FRG were shown higher anti-inflammatory and cell migration promoting activities than RG. FRG inhibited production of nitric oxide (NO) and mRNA expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and decreased interleukin (IL)-6 induced by LPS stimulation in RAW 264.7 cells. In conclusion, this study suggest that FRG could be a potential source as a new natural anti-inflammatory agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.211-218
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• 2011

Effects of Kenpaullone, a specific inhibitor of GSK3${\beta}$, on melanin synthesis in B16 melanoma cells and human melanocytes were investigated. Kenpaullone showed a melanogenesis stimulation activity in a concentrationdependent manner in murine B16 melanoma cells and human melanocytes without any significant effects on cell proliferation. Tyrosinase activity was increased 48 h after treatment of B16 cells with Kenpaullone. The protein expression level of tyrosinase was dose-dependently enhanced after the treatment with Kenpaullone. At the same time, the expression level of tyrosinase mRNA was also increased after addition of Kenpaullone. The stimulatory effect of Kenpaullone mainly resulted from increased expression of tyrosinase. These findings suggest that the application of GSK3${\beta}$ inhibitors may be a potential therapeutic agent for the treatment of hypopigmentation disorder.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.247-256
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• 2011

Existing organic UV protection materials seem to be problematic due to their penetration and irritation to skin. Inorganic UV protection materials are also at issue for safety of their nano-type transformation. Therefore, the recent studies of UV protection materials have been focused not only on the effectiveness but also on their safety. One of the UV protection materials in study which have higher safety is the organic-inorganic conjugation type UV protection material. Previously, we have reported the manufacturing process, physical property and UV protection efficiency of methoxychinnamidoprophy poloysilsesquixan as a new cross-linked polymer type UV protection material. In this study, we have evaluated the effect of the methoxychinnamidoprophy poloysilsesquixan on embryo-fetal development in SD rats. This study is expected to show some definite information related to the effect on pregnancy or embryo-fetal abnormality in case of the clinical exposure of the methoxychinnamidoprophy poloysilsesquixan.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.2 s.51
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• pp.197-206
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• 2005

In the present study, the Chuncheon buckwheat extracts prepared from its seed coats, seeds and stems were used to determine anti-oxidative effects, the content of rutin and phytic acid, and the protective role against cadmium at the cellular level. futhermore, it was evaluated whether the buckwheat, mainly known as a healthy food source, might be applicable to functional cosmetics. Up to $100 {\mu}g/mL$ of the extract was not toxic in HaCaT and B16F10 cell lines using MTT assay. The anti-oxidative capacity of superoxide radicals was shown in seed coats extracts > stem extracts=seed extracts. Although its content of rutin, known as one of effective anti-oxidants, mainly exists in the stem, any extract did not eliminate hydroxyl radicals. Phytic acid, known as a heavy metal-chelate agent, was highly concentrated in the stem. The Chuncheon buckwheat extract had $10\%$ protective effect against the treatment of $50{\mu}M$ cadmium at which $50\%$ of HaCaT cells survived. Confocal laser scanning microscope revealed the intracellular generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by cadmium treatment. Finally, we identified that the stem extract had the most protective effect on the elimination of ROS.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.221-225
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• 2004

The root of Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer has been used as a traditional anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent in the Orient. However, it is still unknown which component of ginseng is effective at suppressing wrinkle formation. Recently at least twenty ginsenosides regarded as the main active ingredients of ginseng have been isolated. Among them, we examined the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 on dermal ECM metabolism to elucidate the mechanism of anti-wrinkle by ginseng. In our study, to investigate the anti-wrinkle effect of the ginsenoside Rg3, ECM component and growth factor in dennis were evaluated by ELISA assay. Ginsenoside Rg3 was found to stimulate type I procollagen and fibronectin (FN) biosynthesis in a dose-dependent manner in normal human fibroblast culture (p < 0.05, n =3), and dose-dependently enhance TGF- ${\beta}$1 level (p < 0.05, n =3). In RT-PCR analysis mRNA level of c-Jun, a member of AP-1 transcription factor, was reduced by ginsenoside Rg3 in normal human fibroblast culture. These results indicate that ginsenoside Rg3 stimulates type I collagen and FN synthesis through the changes of TGF - ${\beta}$1 and AP-1 expression in fibroblasts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.201-205
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• 2004

In these several years, as many people have been attracted by the functional cosmetics, there are a lot of study to enhance the stability of active ingredients for light, heat, oxygen, etc. in the academic and industrial field. Especially, catechin is well known as strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and reducing agent for oxidative stress but it is very unstable for light, heat, oxygen. etc. In this study, the stability and skin penetration of catechin are improved by 3-dimensional method. As I-dimension, porous silica is prepared using sol-gel method, and then catechin is adsorbed in pores of silica. As 2-dimension, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are obtained using non-phospholipid vesicles. Finally 3-dimension is completion through lamellar phase self-organization that combines SLN catechin with skin lipid matrix. We used laser light scattering system, cyro-SEM, chromameter, HPLC and image analyzer to analyze our 3-dimentional systems. According to chromameter date, the color stability of 3-dimensional catechin is enhanced by 5-10 times compared with general liposome systems. We also confirmed through HPLC analysis that 3-dimensional catechin is more long lasting. The effect of skin penetration and wrinkle reduction are improved, too.