• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.113-126
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• 1998

Inner nutshell of Castanea crenata has been used as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent from the ancient time in east Asia. In order to develop new anti-aging and anti-wrinkle, ethanolic extract of inner nutshell of Castanea crenata was prepared and various biological activities were evaluated. Cor-285 possessed potent tree radical scavenging activity in vitro compared to gallic acid. Cor-285 showed the preventive effect against UV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblast at concentration of 25-250mg/ml. When Cor-285 was evaluated for its anti-allergic activity, it effectively inhibited histamine release from mast cells induced by compound 48/80. The inhibitory activity was stronger than that of glycyrrhizinate. Cor-285 also showed on vivo inhibition against delayed hypersensitivity as well as croton-oil induced ear edema in mice when topically applied. These results strongly suggest that Cor-285 may reduce immunoregulatory/inflammatory skin trouble. From the attempts to isolate the scavenger, were isolated. In a clinical trial of twenty healthy volunteers with aged skin, 6 weeks application of Cor-285 decreased wrinkle about 26% and increased moisturizing 20% on the skin. All of these results indicate that Cor-285 may be an effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.89-98
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• 1996

A novel polymeric sunscreen agent was developed. It was prepared by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride(PVBC, average MW 6,500). In this reaction the reactivity was mostly affected by catalyst. In the absence of catalyst the yield was approximately 55% and in the presence of tetrabutylammonium bromide the yield was about 65%, but in the presence of tetrabutylammonium iodide the yield was 100% to give a average molecular weight 20,000 polymeric sunscreen agent. There were no side reactions, and its structure and purity were confirmed by various analytical methods, such as NMR, IR, and so on. UV radiation absorption efficiency is more than 70% compared with that of octyl methoxycinnamate. The solubility in polar oil, for example C12-15 alkylbenzoate and caprylic/capric triglyceride, is more than 50%. It showed high stability in the time course of test including acceleration test. This polymer is safe to skin because of poor permeability to skin, no side products in the process of preparing, and easy elimination of excess starting materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.141-146
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• 2023

The efficient use of a chiral shift agent (3) containing bifunctional group (thiourea and tertiary amine) for the determination of the enantiomeric purity of racemic mixture (Hemiesters) has been studied. The diastereomeric complexes derived from a chiral shift agent (3) with various hemiesters gave rise to well separate signals of the methoxy protons of hemiesters. Good splitting signals for enantiomers of hemiesters in ¹H NMR are originated form the hydrogen bonds between carbonyl groups of hemiester and bifunctional groups of a chiral shift agent (3) such as thiourea moiety and tertiary amine. This study provides a quick and simple way to determine the chiral purity of hemiester using chiral transfer agent (3).

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.610-613
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• 2012

In this study, plant extracts including 25% Saururus chinensis, 20% Morus bombycis stem and 20% Morus papyrifera stem were tested to use as possible cosmetic agent. As cosmetic effect test, cell toxicity test, elastase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, anti-oxidation assay and temperature stability test were done as cosmetic assays. Plant extract showed low cell toxicity, excellent elastase inhibition and anti-oxidation effect, however, tyrosinase inhibition effect was lower. Skin, lotion and essence formulation was made using plant extracts and temperature stability test was done. Skin and essence indicated good stability, however, lotion showed phase separation and severe viscosity variation, which means lotion formulation change. From the research, plant extracts including Saururus chinensis, Morus bombycis stem and Morus papyrifera stem were suitable for possible cosmetic agent.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.142-146
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• 2024

There is growing interest in natural cosmetic ingredients as natural cosmetics become popular. As a part of effort to look for natureal cosmetic agent, seaweed Sargassums were tested for functional cosmetic agents. Effective materials were extracted from Sargassum coreanum. Sargassum hemiphyllum, and Sargassum patens by simple hot water extraction. Antioxidation, whitening, anti-wrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation effects were studied for functional cosmetic agents. Sargassum extracts indicated excellent cell viability, strong anti-oxidation effect by DPPH radical scavenging activity and showed significant whitening effect from tyrosinase inhibition. However, effects of antiwrinkle, UV absorption and anti-inflammation were negligible. In conclusion, Sargassum coreanum extracts showed good possibility for anti-oxidation and whitening cosmetic agent.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.701-705
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• 2014

Water extracts of root, leaf, branch and fruit of Cudrania tricuspidata were tested to use as natural antiwrinkle and whitening cosmetic ingredient. Root extract indicated 86.5 mg/g polyphenol concentration and 55.5 mg/g flavonoid concentration. From MTT test, root, branch and fruit extract did not show cell toxicity up to $1,000{\mu}g/mL$, however, leaf extract displayed significant cell toxicity in concentrations higher than $200{\mu}g/mL$. Cudrania tricuspidata root extracts displayed excellent 81% tyrosinase inhibition (whitening effect), 58% elastase inhibition (antiwrinkle effect) at $500{\mu}g/mL$ and showed minor UVB absorbance. When solution and lotion formulation were made including Cudrania tricuspidata root extract, they are stable at $25^{\circ}C$ for 21 days, but showed significant deviation in viscosity and particle size at $47^{\circ}C$. From the study, Cudrania tricuspidata root extract demonstrated good potential for natural whitening and antiwrinkle cosmetic agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.73-80
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• 1998

This Study was performed to get the suitable oil dispersion agent by assessment of color strength of organic pigment in non-aqueous systems. Organic pigment is used as a color expression material with other body pigments in the make-up products. But occasionally aggregation or agglomeration occurs for the lack of affinity with medium, This function is the cause of disturbing homogeneous dispersion, and then bring about an instability of products. Our study, research of dispersion mechanism between the pigment and oil phase, has been executed to solve this problem, and find a oil dispersion agent having optimum dispersion condition. Generally dispersion is related to between the solid-liquid mutual properties and electrical phenomena associated with solid-liquid interface. This factor is determined to input energy, milling time, optical properties, particle size, rheological properties, etc. Ideal dispersion state is told that coloring primary solid particle is homogeneously dispersed in medium. Good dispersed colorants are strongly and clearly appeared. We are already known that the particle size of organic pigment, chemical properties and viscosity of medium, refractive index. Consequently We determine the affinity of medium and organic pigment by measuring of color strength in the same mechanical condition. UV-VISIBLE RECORDING SPECTRO PHOTOMETER is used for measuring apparatus. We can decided the dispersion level of oil dispersion agent by measuring absorbance of color strength in the visible range that diluted medium for colloid colorant particles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.227-236
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• 2011

The new sunscreen agent, methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane, is manufactured as polymeric particles with an organic/inorganic hybrid composition. We have already reported the manufacturing method, physical properties, and sunprotection effects of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane. In this study, we evaluated the photochemical properties and photostabilities of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane that has the same functional group as a typical organic sunscreen agent, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC). Using the correlation of UV absorbance and fluorescence, we studied photostabilizers to enhance the photostability of methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane. Finally, we confirmed that octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine were good photostabilizers for methoxycinnamidopropyl polysilsesquioxane.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to investigate the inhibitory effects of Forsythia suspensa fruit extracts (FSfE) ($0.1{\sim}1.0%$) and their active component on melanogenesis. FSfE dose-dependently inhibited melanin synthesis (up to $63.1{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of 1.0%) without cell cytotoxicity. We purifed one active compound from FSfE and identified its structure. It was identified as 4-[(3,4-Dimethoxyphenyl)methyl)]dihydro-3-[(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)methyl]-2(3H)-furanone (arctigenin) by $^1H-NMR,\;^{13}C-NMR$, and Mass analysis. Arctigenin also inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner (up to $52.7{\pm}3.1%$ at the concentration of $3.0{\mu}g/mL$). In order to verify the whitening activity of the cream containing 3% FSfE, we performed the clinical test with twenty five female volunteers for 8 weeks. Bioengineering analyses and visual assessment by doctors at the initial time point and 8 weeks after applications showed that cream containing FSfE have significant whiteining effect (paired t-test). From the results, we conclude that the FSfE can be used as a useful whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.16-37
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• 1988

A new quaternary ammonium compound, hydrolyzed ginseng-sapoin quaternary (HGSQ), from hydrolyzed Korean ginseng-saponin and 2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride has been developed as a conditioning agent for hair care products. This structure has the hydrophilic group from the introduced cationic and the hydrophobic group from the aglycone of ginseng saponin. Its properties: surface tension, conductivity, critical micelle concentration, eye irritation, sorption onto hair, force reduction (%) for 20% extension and moisture retention effect comparing with the commercial standards. Also half-head tests of HGSQ-containing shampoo were carried out to compare the conditioning effects in shampoos.