• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2008

This study is on encapsulation of a new whitening agent, LA-PEG using solid lipid nanoparticle(SLN) method, one of nanoparticle preparation method. Classical method has high capsulation efficiency for hydrophobic compounds but has demerit of low capsulation efficiency($2{\sim}3%$) for hydrophilic compounds. Purpose of this study is preparation of SLN that has higher skin penetration effect compared with general liposome, and also has higher encapsulation efficiency of hydrophilic compounds. For SLN preparation, coconut oil, macadamia oil, and jojoba oil were used. As a result, SLN preparation using coconut oil(include LA-PEG) has the most high encapsulation efficiency and also has the smallest average particle size(270 nm). SLN prepared with macadamia oil and 1% of Tween 60 has the largest particle size. Base made with coconut oil and 2% of Tween 60 showed the fastest release and base made with macadamia oil and 2% of Tween 20 showed the latest release.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.237-254
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• 2019

This study is focused on the effect of sodium stearate, which is a hydrophilic gelling agent affecting on the hardness of O/W solid sunscreen cosmetic. The sunscreen of the O/W (oil in water) type is stable, good in use, and relatively easier to stabilize than the sunscreen of the W/O (water in oil) type. Methods for increasing the stability by using emulsifiers, electrolytes, and wax or oil have been studied for solid sunscreen. This study was intended to develop a solid sunscreen stabilized by increasing the hardness using sodium stearate as an O/W type containing more than 40% moisture. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to analyze the factors affecting the hardness of cosmetics, and sodium stearate, polyol and oil were used for each factor. The hardness and the reaction value was measured using a rheometer. As a result, sodium stearate showed a meaningful value (p < 0.05) among the three factors affecting hardness. In addition, the use of sodium stearate as a hydrophilic gelling agent increased the usability and stability of the solid sunscreen.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.468-473
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• 2014

Dendropanax morbifera (D. morbifera) grows in the southern coastal areas and on Jeju Island in Korea. In this study, D. morbifera leaf extract was investigated to determine the mechanism of its whitening effect. The inhibitory activities of the extract on melanogenesis were tested in B16 melanoma cells treated with the ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH). D. morbifera leaf extracts remarkably decreased the melanin content at 25 and $50{\mu}g/mL$. The extracts significantly inhibited the intracellular tyrosinase activity and protein expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2). In conclusion, D. morbifera leaf extracts would show a whitening effect by inhibiting intracellular tyrosinase activities and the expression of enzymes directly involved in the melanin biosynthesis. The results indicate that fractions of D. morbifera leaf extracts show potential for application as a whitening agent in the new whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.135-140
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• 2006

Nuclear factor-kappaB (NF-kappaB) is a critical transcription factor for maximal expression of many of the cytokines that are involved in the pathogenesis of inflammatory diseases. In this study, we found that 12 plant extracts among 200 plants, namely, Forsythia koreana, Capsicum annuum L, Mentha arvenis, Duchesnea chrysantha, Morus alba, Saururus Chinenis (Lour) Baill, Pine needle, Zingiber mioga (Thunb.), Roscoe, Houttuynia, Prunus yedoenis, Sasa quelpaertenis, significantly inhibited LPS- induced NF-kappaB activation in a concentration-dependent manner. Additionally, 12 plant extracts were found to have antioxidant activities in DPPH assay Therefore, we have attempted to determine whether 12 herbal extracts could inhibit the expression of cytokines possessing NF-kappaB promoter in their promoter regions. Consistently 12 herbal extracts inhibited LPS-induced production of TNF alpha and interleukin-8 (IL-8). These results show that 12 herbal extracts suppresses the production of pro-inflammatory mediators through the inhibition of the NF-kappaB signaling pathway, we suggest that 12 herbal extracts can be used as a anti-inflammatory and soothing agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.265-273
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• 2011

In this study, the antioxidative and inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides) leaf extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of H. rhamnoides extracts showed more effective free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$ = 4.68 ${\mu}g$/mL). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity ($OSC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction in the luminol-dependent $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system was 0.19 ${\mu}g$/mL. The aglycone fraction exhibited more prominent cellular protective effects (${\tau}_{50}$, 133.3 min at 10 ${\mu}g$/mL) in the $^1O_2$-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction on tyrosinase was 54.86 ${\mu}g$/mL, and more effective than arbutin known as whitening agent. These results indicate that fractions of Hippophae rhamnoides extract can be used as antioxidants in biological system, particulaly skin exposed to UV radiation by quenching and/or scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protecting cellular membranes against ROS.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.81-87
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• 2018

The objective of this article is to provide analytical tools for the scattering of stratum corneum (SC) and to check whether the optical clearing agents (OCAs) could be applied in optics affecting the scattering reduction. Dark field images of tape striped corneocyte separates scattered light of the SC from others in vitro. Several optical clearing agents were tested to reduce the scattering. Physical properties of SC such as water contents, keratin configuration and volume after OCAs treatment were investigated by FT-IR and 3D laser microscope. Several reducing sugars, monomeric sugars, sugar alcohol, and hyaluronic acid, which were used as humectants in cosmetic field, also reduced scattering. However, unlike dehydration in optics, water penetrated into the keratin in SC and scattering was decreased at low concentration of OCAs. In that condition, the volume of corneocyte was increased and stiffness seemed to decrease. The analyzing of tape-stripped SC, showed the change of optical and physical properties of corneocyte by optical clearing agents. The hydration of SC layer by optical clearing agents decreased the scattering of corneocyte and thus improved the skin appearance and moisturizing effect, which are important benefits in the cosmetic field and could provide new possibility to develop skin care study targeting at SC.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.254-263
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• 2014

This study was carried out to analyze the effects of water and 70% ethanol extract on the antioxidative and antidiabetic activities of Smilax china L., a vine shrub belonging to the lily family. The activities of the extracts were measured based on the total phenolic and flavonoid contents and through on the results of the antioxidant tests, such as the electron-donating ability, ABTs radical scavenging activities, SOD-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition effect, antioxidant protection factor (PF), TBARs content and ACE inhibition activity, and ${\alpha}$-glucosidase, and ${\alpha}$-amylase inhibition activity. The resulting total phenolic and flavonoid contents of the 70% ethanol extract from S. china L. were greater than those of the water extract from S. china L. With regard to the results of the antioxidant tests, such as the electron-donating ability, ABTs radical scavenging activity, SOD-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition effect, antioxidant protection factor (PF), and TBARs content, those from the 70% ethanol extract from S. china L. were greater than those from the water extract from S. china L. Also, with regard to the ACE inhibition effect and ${\alpha}$-glucosidase and ${\alpha}$-amylase inhibition, those from the 70% ethanol extract from S. china L. were greater than those from the water extract from S. china L. All these findings show that the 70% ethanol extract from S. china L. has greater antioxidative and antidiabetic effects and can be used as a preventive agent for oxidation and diabetes.

• Journal of Adhesion and Interface
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.163-170
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• 2012

Although ${\beta}$-cyclodextrin (${\beta}$-CD) has been used as medicine, agrichemical, food, cosmetic, antioxidant, anti-volatile agent, anti-hygroscopic agent, fading-protecting agent, and emulsifier due to its ability to form inclusion complex by enclosing another molecule (guest molecule), it has been restricted in practical application because of its low solubility in water and organic solvent. In this study, ${\beta}$-CD derivative as a new polyol with inclusion characteristics against Bisphenol A and cyclopropane, foaming agent for polyurethane (PU), and with improved solubility was synthesized, characterized and used to formulate rigid PU foam with better thermal conductivity and compressive strength compared to that from commercial polyols.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.7-13
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• 2004

As a novel anti-wrinkle agent, 3,9-diferuloyl-6-oxopterocarpen (Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$) has been synthesized and its anti-aging effects have been investigated. In the present study, to investigate the relationship between aging and Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$, we examined its effect on scavenging activities of radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), in vitro inhibition activity of matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) and expression of UVA-induced MMPs in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$ was found to show activities of scavenging radicals and ROS with the $IC_{50}$/ values of 0.2 mM and 0.95 mM against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and superoxide radicals, respectively, in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system. Fluorometric assays for the proteolytic activities of MMP-l (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$ inhibited the activities of MMP-l in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$/ values calculated from semi-log plots were 0.025 mM. Also, UVA induced MMP-1 expression was reduced 85％ by treatment with Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$ at 0.8 uM, which was reduced dose-dependent manner. The results of clinical study showed that 4.8 mM Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$ treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P 〈 0.05). Taken together, these result suggest that Tensolin-F$^{(R)}$ act as an anti-wrinkle agent by taking effects to antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-l production.-l production.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 2007

To develop the skin whitening agent, we investigated the effects of Acanthopeltis japonica, a rhodophyta on the coast of Jeju island, on melanogenesis. Dried A. japonica was refluxed with 70 % aqueous ethanol and the extract was evaporated to dryness. To validate the activity as a depigmenting agent, various in vitro tests, polyphenol contents, and free radical scavenging activity were performed. In addition, cellular tyrosinase activity and protein expression of p-ERT, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 were measured in B16/F10 murine melanoma cells. A. japonica had low polyphenol contents and low free radicals scavenging activities against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical. A. japonica suppressed cellular tyrosinase activity up to 86.9 % at $100{\mu}g/mL$ with inhibition or tyrosinase and TRP-1 expression in ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH)-treated B16/F10 melanoma cells. Our results suggest that inhibitory effects of A. japonica on melanogenesis are due to inhibiting the pathways involving ${\alpha}$-MSH-induced ERK activation. Therefore, A. japonica nay be useful as a skin whitening agent associated with the suppressive effect of melanotrophin-induced signaling pathway to inhibit melanin synthesis.