• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.209-217
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• 2007

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin from UV radiation and determines the race and skin color. Melanin is also major target for developing skin-whitening cosmeceuticals. Recently, as the market size of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals has rapidly expanded, related researches and developments are also focused on maximizing the safety and efficacy. Also, patents of skin-whitening materials have been increasing steadily for ensuring the competitive power. Patent also shows the research trend of industry and institutes. In this review, we analyze the trend of research and development based on the patent application of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals.

• Preventive Nutrition and Food Science
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.73-77
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• 2015

As an approach to search for chemopreventive agents, we tested p-coumaric acid, 3-methoxy-p-coumaric acid (ferulic acid), and 3,5-dimethoxy-p-coumaric acid (sinapic acid) in B16/F10 melanoma cells. Intracellular melanin contents were determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay and cytotoxicity of the compounds were examined by lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release. p-Coumaric acid showed inhibitory effect on melanogenesis, but ferulic acid increased melanin content, and sinapic acid had almost no effect on melanogenesis. Treatment with ferulic acid resulted in a 2 to 3 fold elevation in the production of melanin. Correlatively, cell viability decreased in a dose-dependent manner when treated with ferulic acid. However, ferulic acid did not affect the LDH release from the cells. Treatment with sinapic acid resulted in a 50~60% elevation in the release of LDH when treated with a $200{\mu}g/mL$ concentration and showed neither cytostasis nor increase of melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. Taken together, p-coumaric acid inhibits melanogenesis, ferulic acid induces melanogenesis, and sinapic acid exerts cytotoxic effects in B16/F10 murine melanoma cells. The results indicate that the addition of methoxy groups to p-coumaric acid shows the melanogenic or cytotoxic effects in melanoma cells compared to the original compound. Therefore, this study suggests the possibility that methoxylated p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid can be used as a chemopreventive agent.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.36-41
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• 2014

Skin disease is one of the most common diseases and its incidence is increasing dramatically in modern society. Specially, many attempts have been made to treat chronic skin inflammation diseases, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, but effective therapies for the immune cell-mediated skin diseases, including psoriasis and atopic dermatitis have not been developed. Until recently, several drug candidates which were claimed to be effective for skin diseases have been reported, but most of them are not used to treat chronic skin disease. Especially, Psoriasis is characterized by excessive growth and aberrant differentiation of keratinocytes, but is fully reversible with appropriate therapy. The trigger of the keratinocyte response is thought to be activation of the cellular immune system, with T cells and various immune-related cytokines. Formation of new blood vessels starts with early psoriatic changes and disappears with disease clearance. Several angiogenic mediators are up-regulated in psoriasis development. Contact- and mediator-dependent factors derived from keratinocytes, mast cells and immune cells may contribute to the strong blood vessel formation of psoriasis. New technologies and experimental models provide new insights into the role of angiogenesis in psoriasis pathogenesis. TMP and its derivatives themselves effectively inhibited in vitro cell migration, tube formation, and the expression of angiogenic factors. However, TMP and its derivatives induced side effects including hemolysis and local side effects. Therefore, in an attempt to reduce the toxicity and the undesirable side effects of TMP and derivatives, a liposomal formulation was prepared and tested for its effectiveness. TMP and derivatives liposomes retained the effectiveness of TMP in vitro while side effects were reduced. These results support the conclusion that TMP effectively inhibits in vitro angiogenesis, with the possibility that use as a psoriasis relief agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.221-226
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• 2010

A rare isoflavone, 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone, was isolated from a 10-year-old fermented soybean food. 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone was isolated for the first time from a Korean fermented soybean food. Evaluation tests of biological activity showed significantly inhibition activity for free radical scavenging on both non-enzymatic (DPPH system) and enzymatic method (xanthine oxidase system). DPPH radical scavenging effect of 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone was similar with vitamin C in a dose-dependent manner. In xanthine oxidase (XO) system 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone showed superoxide radical inhibition activity of 50 % at a concentration of $6.6{\pm}0.4\;{\mu}M$. Also, the compound significantly suppressed cellular MMP-1 formation. These results suggest that 7, 8, 4'-trihydroxyisoflavone could be developed as a potential preventive or therapeutic agent against skin aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.329-335
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• 2017

We have studied on the keratinocytes differentiation and skin barrier function using Adenophorae radix (A. radix) root extract, which was known to contain triterpenoid, saponin and starch. A. radix root extracts showed the $PPAR{\alpha}$ expression level of Wy-14,643 $0.5-1.0{\mu}M$ in CV-1 cells. The cornified envelop formation (CE) of human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and normal human keratinocyte (NHK) showed a statistically significant increased compared to the control. When HaCaT cells were treated with A. radix root extract, transglutaminase (TGase-1) was significantly increased. As a result of clinical study of the simple cosmetic formulation containing A. radix root extract for about 2 weeks, TEWL values were significantly decreased and water contents were increased. The ceramides, which were obtained from the inner forearm, were also significantly increased statistically. We suggest that the A. radix root extract can be used as a preventive and therapeutic agent for skin diseases such as dry skin and atopy.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.245-251
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• 2018

In this study, Coffea arabica ethanol extract (CAE) was tested for possible functional cosmetic agent. Whitening effect was measured by tyrosinase inhibition assay, and anti-oxidant activity was checked by SOD-like activity. SOD-like activity of CAE showed $94.8{\pm}6.2%$ at $500{\mu}g/mL$. The anti-bacterial activities CAE was evaluated against three different gram-positive bacteria and six gram-negative bacteria including MRSA strains. CAE exhibited in vitro broad spectrum antimicrobial activities of gram-negative bacteria without antifungal activity. CAE was strong exhibited against MRSA CCARM3561. The tyrosinase and L-DOPA inhibitory activities of the CAE lower than those positive control arbutin. CAE reduced melanin contents of B16-F10 melanoma cell in a dose dependent manner and decrease about 89.2% at a concentration $100{\mu}g/mL$. These result highlight the potential of coffee extract as a naturally active and non-toxic antibacterial suitable for cosmetic applications.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.190-198
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• 2021

The aim of the study was to evaluate the physiological activity of Lycium ruthenicum to investigate their potential as a raw material that can be used in the cosmetic industry. L. ruthenicum fruit extracts were obtained using 70% methanol(LRM) and hot-water(LRW). The DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging abilities were higher in the LRM extract than in the LRW extract. The FRAP value of LRM was about 1.3-fold greater than that of LRW. The polyphenol contents of LRM and LRW were 31.883±1.395 mg/g and 27.748±2.741 mg/g respectively. LRM inhibited the generation of NO in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. LRM also attenuated the expression of COX-2, PGE2, IL-6, and TNF-α induced by LPS. These results suggests that L. ruthenicum fruits could be use as a source of natural antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agent in cosmetic products.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.553-557
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• 2009

Root extracts of Angelica gigas Nakai were tested to see the possibility for functional cosmetic agents. From ethanol extraction method, 97% of decursin and decursinol angelate was obtained, and concentration ratio of decursin to decursinol angelate was about 3:2. To test possibility as a functional cosmetic agent, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, UVA/B absorption, tyrosinase inhibition assay, melanogenesis inhibition assay, elastase inhibition assay and MTT assay were done. Root extracts of Angelica gigas Nakai showed $45.2{\pm}3.9%$ tyrosinase inhibition of tyrosine, and $24.2{\pm}12.0%$ melanin inhibition at $15{\mu}g/ml$ extract concentration, so that it indicated good whitening effect. DPPH free radical scavenging activity was $40.9{\pm}9.1%$ at $240{\mu}g/ml$ concentration, which is relatively good. Anti-wrinkle effect was poor such that it was $12.7{\pm}6.8%$ at $100{\mu}g/ml$. UVA/B absorption was also negligible. From the research, root extracts of Angelica gigas Nakai showed good potential as a whitening agent.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.327-331
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• 2010

Porcine placenta was treated with alkali, acid and enzyme treatment to obtain extracts. Heavy metal contents such as Pb, As, and Hg were low enough to satisfy cosmetic agent standard. As a result of safety test(MTT assay), porcine placenta extracts showed over 80% of cell viability at $50{\mu}g/ml$, and cell toxicity was relatively lower. From antioxidation test using DPPH free radical scavenging assay, antioxidation effect was highest as 63% at $50{\mu}g/ml$ when porcine placenta was treated with alkali in pH 9. From whitening effect test using tyrosinase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition effect was 30% at $50{\mu}g/ml$ concentration in alkali treated procine placenta, however, the efficiency was lower compared with arbutin or vitamin C. In anti-wrinkle effect test from elastase inhibition assay, elastase inhibition effects were 20~30% at $50{\mu}g/ml$ for 5 kinds of porcine placenta treatments, which was superior to standard, and especially, protease treated extracts showed best results. Skin formulation including 1% porcine placenta was made and the formulation was very stable for temperature and storage period. From this research, porcine placenta extract showed high potential for anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.135-141
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• 2015

Cell senescence can be identified by cellular changes that occur as a result of intrinsic aging and/or diseases. In case of skin cells, aging and cell senescence caused by external factors results in cessation of cell proliferation and cellular malfunction, which, in turn, accelerates skin aging. In this study, inhibition of cell senescence and enhancement of cell function were studied using cordycepin to evaluate the potential for skin anti-aging agent. By comparing with the number of senescence associated with ${\beta}$-galactosidase (SA-${\beta}$-gal) positive cells in young and replicative aged human fibroblasts, it was found that replicative aged cells showed higher expression of ${\beta}$-galactosidase. Treatment of cordycepin - known as an anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory agent - reduced ${\beta}$-galactosidase expression in senescent cells and enhanced cell survival in serum-free culture condition. Cordycepin also showed superb inhibition of ROS, which is another indicator of cell senescence. The results of this study proved the anti-aging effect of cordycepin on human fibroblasts and also proposed a possibility of its use as an anti-aging cosmetic ingredient.