• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 1999년도 IFSCC . ASCS 학술대회 발표 논문
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide (Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of [$^3H$]-proline incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area: $1, 766{\;}\textrm{cm}^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used The stabilities of retlnoids were evaluated at two different temperature ($25{\;}^{\circ}C$ and $40{\;}^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in OW emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.132-149
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• 1992

이 논문은 외관, 안정도, 얇고 균일하게 끈적이지 않는 Film 형성 등의 우수한 특징을 갖고 있기 때문에 Cosmetic preparations의 여러 방면에 응용하고 있는 Microemulsion gel에 관한 것이다. 우리의 연구는 Microemulsion의 Clarifying agent 또는 Coupling agent로 이용되고 있는 Polyol류가 Microemulsion에 미치는 영향을 해명함으로써, Consistency, Stability, Clarity, Pick-up from a container등이 우수한 최적의 Microemulsion gel의 형성 조건을 확립하여 Cosmetic preparations에 응용할 수 있도록 하는 것이다. 연구한 System은 De-ionized water, Oil로는 Polar한 Ester oil, Emulsifying agent는 Nonionic syrfactant, Coupling agent는 Polyol로 구성하였으며, Three component phase diagram과 Tetrahedral phase diagram을 이용하여, Polyol의 비율에 따라 Microemulsion gel의 투명 영역, Consistency, 충격에 의한 Resonance 효과, Pick-up from a container등의 변화를 고찰하였다. 연구결과 구성 성분 중 De-ionized water의 Coupling agent의 비율변화에 의한 영향이 가장 크게 나타났으며, Coupling agent로 사용된 Glycerine의 물에 대한 비율이 63-75%일 때 최적 Microemulsion gel 형성 영역이 가장 넓게 나타났다. 특히 Polyol의 비율을 적절히 선택함으로써, 최근 관심이 모아지고 있는 최소의 유화제량으로 최대의 유상량을 함유한 Microemulsion gel을 얻는데 기여할 수 있을 것으로 생각된다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.111-118
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• 2001

A novel melanogenic inhibitory compound, Phytoclear-EL1 (5,10-diacetyl-3-benzoyllathyrol) was isolated from Euphorbiae lathyridis. The effects of EL1 on culture normal human melanocytes (NHM) were assessed. EL1 reduced the melanin synthesis of NHM by 40% at a concentration of 2 $\square$g/ml without any apparent cytotoxicity. We also have found that the treatment of the cells with EL1 decreased the tyrosinase activity by 29% in situ. To elucidate the action mechanism of EL1, we investigated the changes in mRNA levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using RT-PCR technique. AS a result, the mRNA levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 were markedly reduced by EL1 treatment. These results suggest that Phytoclear-EL1 is a novel whitening agent that is effective in human melanocytes.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.82-85
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• 1997

To develop an active material for skin darkening, we examined the effect of 300 plants on tyrosinase activity and found only Caesalpinia sappan has an ability to increase tyrosinase activity highly and melanin contents in B-16 melanoma cells. A compound increasing tyrosinase activity and melanin production was isolated from Caesalpinia sappan Lignum. Brazilin was identified as a new active agent. Brazilin increases the tyrosinase activity and malanin production of B-16 melanoma cells. In conclusion, it seems that brazilin cal be used as a new sunless tanning agent.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.38-44
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• 1998

The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of two UV filters from caprylic capryl triglyceride (oil), oil in water (O/W) and water in oil (W/O) emulsions, were evaluated. We selected octyl moth-oxycinnamate (OMC) broadly used in cosmetics and polymeric sunscreen agent (PSA, average MW: 2,000) synthesized by the coupling reaction of 2-ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate with poly vinylbenzyl chloride, as model UV filters. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area:1.766cm) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used. Oil or emulsion containing UV filters was applied in the donor compartment. The skin primary irritation was evaluated with fe-male guinea pigs (8-10 weeks,350-400 g). In oil and emulsions, the skin permeability and the skin primary irritation of PSA were lower than those of OMC. The skin permeability of UV filters was lower when they were in oil-in-water emulsion (OIW) than water-in-oil emulsion (W/O). We suggest that O/W system would be more useful when compared with W/O system, and PSA could be a good candidate for a future sunscreen agent for reducing the skin irritation.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.135-150
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• 2003

This study is described the stabilizing technology of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion and the mechanism of emulsification with quaternium-18 hectorite (Q-18 HTRT) by swelling action. When Q-18 HTRT is dispersed in oil, it swells and constructs card-house structure adding ethanol, and formation of water phase is caused by hydrogen bonding. The gelling activities of Q-18 HTRT were excellent such as mineral oil, squalane, cetostearyl isononanoate, isostearic acid, cetyl octanoate, octyl dodecanol and so on. Especially, when oil gel containing Q-18 HTRT passed one to three times by Roll mill. It made the W/O emulsion cream (W/O-ECRM) having 2.0 w/w% of Q-18 HTRT and also produced the control sample (control) including 3.0 w/w% of cetyl PEG/PPG- l0/l dimethicone. The stability of after 24 weeks, Hardness of W/O-ECRM dropped 7.48%, whereas hardness of control went down 57 71%. As a result of these test emulsification of W/O-ECRM is superior compared with control. In cosmetic, 0-18 HTRT can use as suspending agent, oil adsorbent, emulsifying agent, dispersing agent, viscosifier and pigment.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• 제48권4호
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• pp.413-416
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 연근의 추출물에서 기능성화장품 소재를 개발하고자 하였다. 용매는 70~100%의 에탄올을 이용하였으며, 연근의 유효성분으로 nuciferine을 확인하였다. 연근 추출물의 화장품소재로서의 응용가능성을 보기 위해 안전성시험(MTT assay), 주름개선 효과시험(Elastase 활성저해 시험) 및 항산화효과시험(DPPH free radical scavenging assay)을 실시하였다. 100% 에탄올로 연근을 추출할 경우 $100{\mu}g/ml$의 농도에서 세포생존율이 80% 이상이어서 연근 추출물은 화장품소재로서 비교적 안전함을 알 수 있었다. 또한 연근 추출물은 $100{\mu}g/ml$의 농도에서 elastase 활성억제가 40~50%를 보여주어서 비교적 우수한 주름개선 효과를 나타내었다. 50% 항산화 저해능을 보이는 농도($FSC_{50}$)는 $5.0{\sim}38{\mu}g/ml$로 연근 추출물의 항산화효과가 매우 우수하였다. 따라서 연근 에탄올추출물은 주름개선 기능성화장품 소재로서 그 가능성이 높음을 알 수 있었다.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.193-204
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• 2003

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.174-181
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• 1996

The novel synthesis of 3-aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate(3-APPA; 3-Aminopropane phosphoric acid), and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy and toxicology were presented. The phosphorylation of 3-amino-1-propanol was carried out via cyclization into 6-membered 2, 6-oxaza-phosphoryl ring in the presence of phosphorous oxychloried and an organic base. The subsequent ring-opening hydrolysis and crystallization afforded the highly purified product in 90% isoloated yield. The method is much superior to the previous literature phosphorylation methodsm, as the procedure is simple and high-yielding. To confirm the efficacy of 3-APPA, several activities related to anti-aging capacity were measured. In-vitro human fibroblast, linear and 3-dimensional collagen matrix culture revealed that 3-APPA stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts, and enhanced the synthesis of collagen, which showed 3-APPA's potency for skin wrinkle reduction. The toxicolgical aspect of 3-APPA was also extensively examined. In vivo toxicity tests such as acute oral toxicity, eye irritation, human patch, and the repeat insult human patch test proved 3-APPA to be a safe material. Thus 3-APPA can be used as an effective anti-aging agent for various cosmetic formulations.