• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.66-75
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• 2020

This study helps develop cool-touch functional dance sportswear. We suggest a draft design for dance sportswear that chooses appropriate cool-touch functional materials based on an investigation of the changes of body surface temperature before and after exercise, the physical properties of cool-touch materials on the market, and the preference for cooling tools. The results are as follows. First, cool-touch functional sportswear products on the market utilize materials such as PCM, Delta fabric, high gauge fabric, and ice chips as well as incorporate functions such as UV block and eyelets for enhanced breathability. Polyester and polyurethane fibers are mainly used for cool-touch functional sportswear. Second, the neck area showed the highest surface temperatures (32.7℃ and 32.1℃) before and after exercise. Body surface temperatures measured after exercise were also lower than temperatures measured before exercise when wearing dance sportswear. Third, as for the physical properties of cool-touch materials, material 1 showed amaximum drying speed (130 min), material 3 the best moisture absorption speed (122 × 132 min), and material 4 the best thermal conductivity (0.013 7 w/m·K). Fourth, a draft design for a cool-touch functional dance sportswear was suggested, including a neckband made of removable soft PVC material on the neck area and applying material 4 in F1, B4, S2 and lower arm areas and material 1 in the armpit area. Deodorant tape was also attached to the armpit area for added comfort and antibacterial deodorant effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.628-638
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• 2020

This study develops a cool-touch functional Dancesport top for middle-aged women by using cool-touch materials in areas where surface temperature becomes high after exercise. The post-exercise surface temperature of the developed research product was compared and analyzed. In addition, subjective evaluation of cool-touch as well as appearance and movement evaluations were performed. The results are as follows. In designing the research product, a detachable neckband was made using highly-preferred hydrated polymer crystals. A material with high moisture absorption speed was also used in F1, S1, under arm and B5, while a material with good thermal conductivity was used in other parts of the bodice. Deodorant tape with antibacterial and deodorant effects was incorporated in the armpit for additional comfort. As for wear evaluation of the research product, significant differences were found in 10 areas using a material with high moisture absorption speed to compare and analyze the post-exercise surface temperatures of the clothing. The temperature difference between the compared top and the research product in the neckband area was 9.16℃, demonstrating clear cool-touch function in using cool-touch material. In the subjective evaluation of cool-touch function, the results showed high scores when asked about the efficiency of the detachable neckband and the ease of movement when wearing the product. In the appearance evaluation, significant differences were found in 11 items, including redundant folds, tightfit, fit, and design line. The overall mean score of the movement evaluation was 4.6, indicating excellent function for movement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.326-332
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• 2014

To develop cool touch feeling fabrics for summer clothing material, it was manufactured several compositions of woven fabrics, having rayon multi-filament yarn (non-twisted) as warp and various kinds of yarn, such as viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (twisted), tencel$^{(R)}$ spun yarn, PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn, and PET based rayon-like yarn, as weft. After preparing the fabrics, basic properties of the fabrics were investigated, such as air-permeability, tensile strength, absorption rate, drying rate, etc. Also, surface warm / cool sensations of the woven fabrics were assessed by Qmax Warm / Cool Touch Tester. It was observed that the fabrics composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn (weft) showed excellent surface cool touch sensation-the highest Qmax value. This is because the fabric having flat shaped PET high absorbance quick dry filament shows the largest contact area with Qmax measuring plate. And, the fabric also showed superior high absorbance and quick dry property as expected. In addition, we treated phase change material (PCM) on the surface of the fabric composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn(weft) to improve the cool touch feeling. However, the surface cool touch feeling was impaired by resin treated with PCM during the finishing process.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.155-164
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• 2018

The temperature is a sense that can be felt by touch and sight. However, the concept of the temperature sensation is rarely used together with the concept of visual sensation and tactile sensation. In this study, the sensation of the temperature sensed through tactile and visual sense was investigated by the visual temperature depending on color and material characteristics. The textile was selected as a sample that could include color and material characteristics. The textile sample was composed of each 15-16 kinds of Yellow, Red, Blue, and Green of total 90 samples. The analytical method was to analyze first, the warm-cool of the colors of Yellow, Red, Blue, Green, and then to the visual temperature according to visual classification and tactile classification. And we investigated the correlation of the visual temperature depending on weight, thickness, and unevenness. As a result, the number of textiles felt by Cool and Warm differed according to the warm-cool of the colors feeling in the same textile. However, the visual temperature was different to each classification of textile. In particular, it was noticeable in thin, see-through and matte textiles. In relation to weight, thickness, unevenness and the visual temperature, the textile classification related to the weight is a classification of a hard, matte textile, and the textile classification related to the thickness is a thin, see-through textile.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.101-110
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• 2007

Since cotton fabrics with ripple finish treatment form wavy furrows on the surface or bumpy patterns, air circulation during wearing is good and the fabric is cool to the touch. The finishing principle is based on the mercerization, which utilizes the fact that cotton fibers contract in a concentrated NaOH solution. In this study, as fabric specimens, cotton fabrics with yarn counts of 40's, 60's and 80's were used. Concentrations of the NaOH solutions were 15%, 25%, and 35%. After dyeing fabrics using Rubia akane nakai, color and other properties were measured. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the fabric became thicker and denser, and the number of occurrence of the prominence and depression per unit length became larger. The color of the region contracted by ripple finish became darker after dyeing, while the color of the untreated region became lighter, which enhanced the cubic effect of the ripple finish. As the count of the cotton yarn increased, the dyeability became better. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the air permeability became lower.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.801-811
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• 2022

In this study, we constructed a database of dyeing concentrations of all reactive dyes used for dyeing linen according to the thickness of the linen fabric and attempted to improve the reproducibility of the dyeing process for the commercialization of linen fabric materials. Linen fabric is a natural cellulose material that is comfortable and suitable for eco-friendly trends. It is a typical summer material with excellent breathability and thermal conductivity, quick moisture absorption and dissipation, and a cool touch. Dyeability and fastness were evaluated depending on the thickness of the linen fabric using a monochlorotriazine (MCT) reactive dye and bifunctional yellow, red, and blue dyes. All three colors of the MCT reactive dye and bifunctional dyes exhibited a darker shade as the fiber thickness of the marker increased. Fastness to washing was excellent at grades 4-5 or higher, regardless of the color of the dye and the number of linen fabrics. Although some color-fastness differences were noted, with the color change occurring most frequently with blue color, the fastness variations with dye type were mostly similar. The results of this study are expected to facilitate the selection of reactive dyes according to the thickness of the linen fabric based on the basic data from the laboratory, which will aid in the mass production of linen fabric and benefit the fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.144-158
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• 2017

Fur garment has long been the conventional symbol for luxury, or conspicuous consumption. However, as fashion items began to diversify as part of overall fashion trend, fur items are now more about individual taste and style than just lavishness. Synthetic fur is especially emerging as a new promising fashion material, with a touch almost like natural fur at an affordable price. Along with the emergence of 'Vegan Fashion' trend, synthetic fur is establishing itself as a popular fashion textile. This study is an attempt to investigate subjective evaluation and physical properties of natural and synthetic furs, whose results will further serve as basic data in developing synthetic fur materials. Sensory and emotional evaluations are carried out on natural and artificial furs. For analysis, factors such as weight, thickness, air permeability, gloss and compressibility were surveyed to observe how they influence the physical properties. According to the subjective evaluation, natural and artificial fur samples do not differ in conspicuous ways in appearance. Experiments on physical properties, specifically warm/cool touch experiment, show that natural fur has a slightly higher warm sensation than artificial fur. Luster analysis by using a microscope revealed that there are subtle qualitative differences between natural and artificial fur. During the subjective evaluation, subjects found it hard to state distinct quantitative differences in luster. A survey as a means of assessing qualitative differences in gloss seems to be necessary to complement the evaluation. Results from this study will potentially serve as resources for diversification of fashion product designs using synthetic fur.