• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.163-171
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1598-1610
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• 2007

The knit design of this study was developed from reconstruction of Gustav Klimt images including gorgeous colors, symbolic lines, patterns and decorations, and the purpose was laid at making of unique, creative costume image with modem sense and adding artistic value on crochet knit wears. As for the contents and method of this study, We analysed formative aspects of Gustav such as line, color and shape Klimt in his art, and reviewed the cases where his works had been employed in modern costume. The conclusions are as follows; First, painting is important motif for contemporary costume design, and according to the individual thinking and expression, can be a major momentum for development of original design. Especially the organic lines and decorative patterns of Gustav Klimt paintings were suitable for rich decorative motif of costume design. Second, the unique colors of Gustav Klimt paintings can, if introduced to costume, allow new color combination. Third, crochet technic, by the texture of material, can present rich expression even with the basic knitting only. The embroidery metallic thread which is the main material for this study, was good for expression of gorgeous and classy image, in spite of the difficulties from its typical luster and embossed feeling. And the mohair, used as decorative motif, allowed more three dimensional expression with its rich voluminous and tangling property. Fourth, in applying Gustav Klimt paintings to costume design, other technics such as knitting, beading, applique, and patchwork helped creation of more unique clothes, presenting possibilities of rich artistic expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.219-245
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• 1996

Throughout her life time, Edith Head produced cinema costumes for over one thousand movies. She was the leading cinema costume designer in Hollywood. Since the Academy Awards added the area of costume design to be recognized [during 33 years of her work(1948∼1981)], she was nominated 35 times an awarded eight times. However, there were no significant studies done on her work or accomplishments although she was acknowledged as an ingenue and creative designer who elicited artistic effects by reflect character's images through their costumes. The purpose of the study was focused on revealing Edith Head's life and work as her creations had a great impact in he field of cinema costumes. It was also to emphasize the forceful affect of cinema costumes on fashion and to disclose the powerful influence of cinema costume designers. The method of the study includes reviews of literature, movies for which she created costumes, her own possessions, and fashion magazines as well as her works that were nominated and chosen for the Academy Awards. Edith head's emphasis in costume design was based on a blend of both simplicity and sophistication avoiding excessive exaggeration and transformation in her work. Her work was also realistic and contemporary. She developed a dramatic ambience through an innovative design while preserving the actor's individual character and uniqueness. Through this accept her her work was highly renowned as an art form as it was gaining popularity. She was also a dominant figure who influenced trends in the areas of fashion magazines, uniforms, and public clothing. In the review of her cinema costumes, it was revealed that the styles of cinema costumes can be as quickly adapted by the public as movies are viewed because the cinema costumes are highly projected through a visual channel. Subsequently, a follow up study on the affect of cinema costumes on fashion would be beneficial.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.106-124
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• 2013

Compared to traditional fashion design, modern fashion design is used as a means that creates original and multiple types of beauty beyond fixed and standardized concept and form. Overlapping technique is the most suitable means to shed classical, authoritative and conservative form and it enables diverse borrowing and quotation for creation. This study aimed to analyze overlapping techniques that are expressed in art, architecture and fashion to find out its characteristics in the field of fashion. The result of this study is as follows. Based on theories of visual perception and advance research, types of overlapping technique were classified as pile, repetition, penetration and transparency. When comparing overlapping techniques in modern fashion with those of painting and architecture, fashion was distinctive in that it had movement and communicativeness through overlapping of fashion and the human body. Therefore, the overlapping technique has wide application and adaptation and can cause specialty, movability, communicativeness and collectivity, which can arouse psychological inspiration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.54-67
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• 1997

Now, this time we regarde as daylife is a part of culture in novelty view of modern culture study. Specially, we can see terms about style surfing supermarket style through visulization process for critic, combination, reconstruction, of modernism, that is post modernism. Not new style show up any more but displayed union of past style history complex, slices of decoration series. A designer group called as memphis, they designed such like that. Our view for fashion could be new in the technology, mixed media, cyber situation is stimulated us and accepted in extened concept of culture. In this study, I approched as a view of streetism cyber punkism haute couture Romanticism linked extension concept of culture. Haute couture fashion has the most historical, and constructive and decorative aspects, and regarded as principle of construction of deconstruction. And this season trend is romantic & emotional image are complexed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.73-85
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and sensibility of Japanism fashion designs which represented by Japanese designers and Western designers. The stimulus were 29 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style fashion designs from fashion collections. The data were analyzed by Cluster analysis, Factor analysis, Multidimensional Scaling Method and Regression Analysis. The specific objectives were as follows ; 1) As result of design analysis, Japanism fashion sensibility is unique and good-looking. 2) As result of the factor analysis. 4 factors which are Attractiveness, Attention, Maturity and Hardness and softness. 3) According to sensibility positioning, The Japanism fashion design was classified by Decorative-Simple, Hard-Soft. 4) As result of the Regression Analysis, The preference of Japanism fashion design was related to attractive factor. 5) As result of the Regression Analysis. The buying desirable of Japanism fashion design was related to attractive, attentive and mature factor.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

Japan is an advanced Asian country with a young, visual and stimulating culture that fascinates even western countries. The aim of this article was to provide an in-depth understanding of youth subculture as a medium of interpreting contemporary Japanese society and fashion, and understanding the values of Japanese youths today. The study of Japanese culture, youth culture, and Japanese youth subcultures of the 2000s and their clothing styles are based on documentary research and internet research, including a wide range of books and dissertations, and English, Korean and Japanese websites. It studies the unique youth subcultures of the country from the perspective of a Korean researcher who lives in a more fashion-conservative neighbouring country.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.101-111
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• 2006

Jeans fashion in contemporary fashion has various meanings and values, and the importance of it increases. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion. Fashion photograghs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed. The types of styles and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of Korean jeans fashion styles were western style, punk style, neo classic style and ethnic style. 2. The characteristics of Korean jeans fashion designs were the varieties in material, color, technique of expression and application. 3. The formative feature characteristics were traditionalism, sexualism, extraordinarily and exhibitionism. Korean jeans fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various designs and styles. As the activities of the people can be increased in the future, the function and the design of jeans fashion can be developed diversely.