• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.14-25
• /
• 2005

The objective of this study is to understand bodily extension and identity in contemporary fashion art through the analysis of 'the fashion acting on the body' among the fashion theory excluding body and the conspicuous works on the opening and covering images as a fashion art as a body-space'. This study also investigated identity problems where there are poles apart in opening and closure their bodies and body-space in which its clothing types were distorted by being de-bodilization out of the traditional and ideological expression method in contemporary fashion art from a opening and closure point of view. Image of opening and closure among body-space in fashion art can be classified into opposing structure of opening and closure. Destroying the boundary between bodily opening and closure for a primary function of clothing and dismantling the role and boundary between body and clothing, opening body-space in appearance as a reemergence of body image or the border between inner and outer are being ambiguous because of transparent material. Being representative work of this study opening body-space was expressed as an opening space image using transparency. On the contrary, closure body-space was isolated from external environment and confined in the certain space, which could limit or restraint body- action. Excluding boundary of body and clothing on the whole or in part, boundary of work becomes body-space. However, these were appeared to be a work inducing unlimited curiosity and meaning from the audience. The interpretation of artistic and body-space in fashion art are indicating the role and function of the fashion art exceeding the suggestible dimensions in the every day life of fashion. The body-space of fashion art showing similar aspect of body art today could be understood that it is substituted into an metaphorical, critical space by seeing it as a symbol system connected with social space. Therefore, contemporary fashion art should be interpreted as an equivocal space looking at the body-space with open mind.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.139-152
• /
• 2004

The main objective of this research is to investigate the color coordination types and their characteristics of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i.e., cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2000 S/S to 2002/3 A/W. Through the review of various books and articles written on the subject, the color coordination types and their characteristics were categorized and defined. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 4,269 observations were made. These in turn were categorized into eight color coordination and three color tone categories through the content analysis. Frequency analysis was used to analyse the data. The findings are as follows; First of all, there were 8 observable color coordination categories in contemporary women's fashion. The most used color coordination was chromatic & achromatic color coordination. It was followed by chromatic identical, and then by achromatic identical color coordination. These three color coordinations were the majority, comprizing 73.4％ of the total. The rest were in the order of complementary, gradation, similarity, accent. And the most used tone type was contrasting tone and followed by similar and identical. Next, the analysis of each coordination categories shows that; The chromatic identical coordination focused on presenting its own unity or break it using the contrasting color tone. Meanwhile, the achromatic identical coordination project a clean and strong feeling through black and white combination or a subtle feeling through the different material combination. The chromatic & achromatic coordination showed strong colors and contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. Meanwhile, the characteristics of complementary coordinations are that these coordinations seem to free the colors and show the subtle changes in tones very clearly. The gradation coordination was used to create a cool and lively feeling. Next, the similarity coordination seems to create feminine and warm feeling by taking advantage of similar color feelings, often through the use of warm to warm, cool to cool color matching. Lastly, the accent coordination, through the use of contrasting tones emphasizes the differences in colors, while separation coordination mostly uses black and white on various color coordinations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.3
• /
• pp.139-152
• /
• 2011

This research explores the idea of digilog for fashion; it would help to conclude the uncertain mixed-phenomena and words as a neologism and find a fundamental concept that would be a reference for a lot of uncertain new words that have been occurring even this year. Furthermore, this research is aimed at analyzing how digilog has been reflected on the contemporary fashion and directing the ways towards the future of fashion. The digilog fashion design is the expression of a combination of opposite extremes, that is to say the combination of a paradoxical mix and directly-opposed elements. The outward expression of fashion design with digilog can be classified into several ways. First of all, it tends to use the elements of paradoxical expression; for example, applying high-technology to express a primitive and natural material. The analog expresses unprocessed. Secondly, using high-tech machine to express the texture of handicraft or rough embroidery. Lastly, digital printing(DTP) is applied to enlarge the several or the whole parts of a natural object or sensitivity. As a result of the analysis, the inside view of the contemporary fashion with digilog delineate followings; it is the attitude that claims to go back to the past and accepts the combination of nature and high-technology to get calmness in the rapidly changing modern world. And it is the will to fly from the utterly exhausted reality through the recurrence of the past when there used to be a lot of energies and used to live in affluence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.8
• /
• pp.75-86
• /
• 2000

This paper examined the contemporary kasaya of each country in Asia, focussing on the Kasaya Kongyang ceremony and kasaya varieties. As well, the countries in Asia were divided into the southern Buddhist countries, northern Buddhist countries, and Tibetan buddhist countries, and were comparatively analyzed. 1. In terms of the Kasaya Kongyang ceremony, now days the southern Buddhist countries perform the Katina ceremony, passed down from the time of the Buddha. In the northern Buddhist countries, namely China, the kasaya is bestowed to the monk at the end of the precepts ceremony, while in Korea, the kasaya is bestowed to the monk at the end of the ceremony of "opening the eye" of an image. There is no Kasaya Kongyang ceremony in Japan and Tibetan Buddhist countries. 2. In terms of the varieties of kasaya, because the Katina ceremony is performed with 5 jo in southern Buddhist countries, their kasayas are made up of 5 jo, with the exception of Myanmar's sungari. In Taiwan and Korea, which are of the Zen order and part of the northern Buddhist countries, there are 5-25 jo. In Japan, which is of the Kyo, or doctrinal order, it is made up of 5-9 jo. The Tibetan Buddhist countries have only jo that are 7 and 23. In conclusion, when Buddhism was transmitted from the southern Buddhist countries to the northern Buddhist countries, we can see that the Kasaya Kongyang ceremony and the from of the kasaya itself changed from practical robes to majestic ones, in accord with the Mahayana doctrine of saving all sentient being. Therefore, the kasaya simbolizes the Buddhist philosophy that Mahayana claims the existence of many Buddhas at one and the same time.same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.4
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2004

This study suggests the popular culture theory as a basic framework to find out the characteristics of contemporary fashion show meeting the popular culture, and describes that the show is the popular culture of this generation. The culture is the way of our life unifying the world at common area of human being. The popular culture is to subdivide it into the public culture that shares aesthetic taste, and to borrow each other and develop it mutually because of the collapse of dichotomous boundary with high quality culture, and to represent the people’s thought and behaviour expanding their areas. The author has examined the characteristics of popular culture of modern fashion show by four collections, that is, commercialism, mass media, political relationship and interaction, etc： Firstly, at the commercialism, the fashion show combines it with other genre organically to do mass production and sales and produces cultural consumption goods supplying a lot of sight-seeing. Secondly, at the mass media, the image of contemporary fashion show has been spread out with mass media such as fashion magazines, cable TV and Internet beyond time and space to produce advertisement effects and makes new fashion and bring democratic culture. Thirdly, at political relationship, the fashion in its peak can make a big stream of wealth, so that it plays important roles under governmental regulations in this era and governments make efforts to support and develop it. Lastly, at interaction, the fashion show shares media functions to let users participate in the program and to exchange information as a feedback to influence each other.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.296-308
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend the contemporary sports star fashion and to contemplate aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, thereby to establish the styles of sports star fashion. For such purposes, this study first examines aesthetic characteristics of sports fashion and star fashion based on previous studies, in order to analyze aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, and conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials of fashion styles of well-known male sports stars such as the English soccer player David Beckham and American golf player Tiger Woods. The result of this study is as follows: the aesthetic characteristics of the contemporary sports star fashion are virility, functionality, sensuality and deconstruction. (1) Virility emphasizes manly features by displaying trained and disciplined body. (2) Functionality is expressed through structural simplicity and temperance of decoration. High-tech textiles and fibers are favored in order to fit in comfortable bodily movement for the heavy exercises. (3) Sensuality, as an expression of indulgence of sexual pleasure, is expressed through bodily exposure. Lastly, (4) deconstruction, which means destroying existed boundaries of cultural categories, is shown as co-existence of design elements from different times and places, stereotypes and sensibilities. Virility and functionality are prominent characteristics expressed in sports uniforms and training costumes. Sensuality and deconstruction are shown in daily fashion and formal dress outside the sports field.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.561-574
• /
• 2009

Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.8
• /
• pp.85-99
• /
• 2011

Geometrical figures have been used as artwork motifs from the ancient times to the present day. The area of fashion, being a part of modern art, is also largely influenced by geometry and geometrical shapes are being used as a motif for fashion design now more than ever before. However, studies about geometry in the fashion field are not yet done enough and further research is necessary. This research will therefore investigate the usages of round, square and triangular design in contemporary fashion. The main scope of this research is to look at the type of expression and analyze the intrinsic meanings of these shapes in modern fashion. This research will look profoundly into the general characteristics of these geometrical figures and analyze the effects and uniqueness found in the world collection introduced since 2007. As a result from this study, it was found that round and square objects were perceived in such a straightforward and positive way and these designs, when worn, really completed the final look. On the other hand, the triangular design was used mainly for spatial expansion and was interpreted in a more metaphorical, indirect and abstract way. The intrinsic meaning of round, square and triangle figures in contemporary fashion consists of the informal features that really steps out of the formative clothing structure. The topological changes that is formed from the interactive functions and the wholism that creates a new system through integration of the human body and clothing contains the intrinsic meaning of these geometrical figures. Based on the research results, the method of expression and the characteristics of modern day fashion's geometrical figures was able to be easily understood. This work provides the useful information on the development of fashion design and the extended interpretation of clothing structure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.36-48
• /
• 2012

This study intends to provide fundamental data to develop creative high-value designs, proving that the cut-out technique, a decorative element of fashion design, can be used to express various visual effects. The author performed a literature review of such publications as Gap Press, Fashion News, and Mode & Mode from 2001S/S to 2010S/S, referring to Internet data to empirically analyze the cut-out technique in contemporary fashion. The study found that the cut-out design is effective overall, but is best suited for one-piece designs and for partial rather than whole items of clothing. The basic motif of the cut-out is a geometrical pattern based on a line, a tear, or is shapeless. The cut-out design is mostly shown as an overall pattern or as a symmetrical shape. Analysis shows that the characteristics of the contemporary fashion utilizing the cut-out technique are as follow: First, the cut-out technique exposes the curves of a woman's body in a direct or indirect way, thereby emphasizing her sexuality and maximizing the value of female beauty. Second, through the cut-out technique, we can highlight the various types of space formed by the technique and repeated patterns; we may also elaborate on single-patterned laser-cut designs, which will show that the particular surface effect of the material can strongly impact the attractiveness of the design through emphasis and decoration. Third, damaging or destroying clothes on purpose, showing surprising concepts through optical illusions, and expressing humor by ignoring existing clothing styles show our willingness to escape from traditional or obvious design ideas, as well as demonstrating individuality and playfulness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.205-215
• /
• 2014

This study analyzed 'The representation of death' as expressed in the fashion photography posted on Facebook. Currently, there is a growing interest in 'Well-dying'. Also contemporary art and fashion is a trend that expressed what about death more than life. And today, Facebook is one of the current worldwide as a powerful communication. Death representation in contemporary fashion photography, as expressed in its first characteristic is 'Vanitas', and the main material was a skull. The shape of a skeleton of the symbol of death. Vanitas of inner meaning is vain, a mortal life's futility and death for the paradoxical emotion. The second characteristic is 'Phantom of the ruins'. This is like the darkness of death, and the shape represented in that space. And the death representation is depressed, gloomy atmosphere, dead-man and warm-less. Inner meaning is curiosity about the ghosts and the decadence romantic about the afterlife. The last characteristic is 'Grotesque'. This characteristic is the destruction of the body, fear of sadistic, and inhuman shape. This is parable with death that pain and fear of death, dark fantasy, the appearance of a contradiction modern society and cut off humanity. Inner meaning is the dark fear of death and the anger of wrong of the present society. At present, we have to reproduce the death, and what we want is eventually no one can escape 'Attention to death'. In addition, by expressing the solidarity between death and life is to want to get a consolation for the anxiety and afraid reality.