• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.209-221
• /
• 2013

This study has attempted to investigate the effect of cubism on fashion and figure out how its formative characteristics have been expressed in contemporary fashion in the 21st century, focusing on the period since 2010. The propose of the study is to broaden research scope in fashion design through analysis and inspection on formative aspects among the cases which have proposed brand - new fashion designs by adapting cubism in fashion. To find out the characteristics of cubism in painting and formative characteristics of contemporary fashion in which the characteristics of cubism are reflected, a literature review has been conducted by referring to domestic and foreign books, previous papers, academic journals and Internet resources on cubism. For an empirical study, in addition, photos of cubism-applied modern fashion have been collected and analyzed through http://www. samsungdesign.net. The following results have been obtained: First, the formative characteristics of cubism were obtained in following categories; character of figure, simultaneity, reiteration and facticity. Second, according to analysis on cases after applying the formative characteristics on contemporary fashion design, the character of figure by the geometric shape of cubism was observed in fashion as well. After dismantling and reconfiguring garments, simultaneity has been expressed in an exaggerated and distorted manner through regular and repetitive overlapping or overlapping of irregular shapes. In terms of facticity, novelty has been delivered with the use of heterogeneous materials, using collage and patchwork techniques. Third, simplicity and functionality in cubism - style garments in the early 20th century have disappeared in contemporary design in the 21st century. Now, a dynamic aspect is only found. Fourth, unlike common paintings, 2D textiles are added to a 3D body in fashion design. In addition, it can be observed from multiple angles depending on the movement so that it can display more diverse shapes. Therefore, it could be the origin of inspiration to many designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.3
• /
• pp.66-83
• /
• 2010

Huafu is the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese as the significant cultural symbol of Chinese civilization. The resuscitation of Huafu is an exemplification for the pride of a nation, due to China's rapid economic development and a craze for Chinese cultures. Huafu's resuscitation is not only introducing the traditional design factors of Huafu into the contemporary fashion but also reflects the image of Chinese style created to modernize works. Through the study of the history of Huafu, it could be summarized that Ruqun(Zu-chin), Shenyi(Shen-yee), and Shan were the most important and typical types. The characteristics of Huafu were primary colors or strong contrast with achromatic colors, flora and fauna patterns, and geometric patterns. The clothing aesthetic of Huafu could be summed up as spacious, delicate, gorgeous, clandestine, and unconventional character. There were lots of elements in Huafu that could provide inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, such as forms, colors, patterns, details, and also the aesthetic. Based on the analysis of the Chinese designers who applied the elements of Huafu into contemporary fashion design, it could be recognized that the Chinese designer's works were made using the elements of traditional Huafu directly or using new fabrics and techniques to give a modern sense, but also embodies the Huafu's clothing aesthetic at the same time. In the wake of the resuscitation and publicity of Huafu, the essential factors of Huafu will be able to provide inspiration for designers not only for Chinese but also around the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.6
• /
• pp.19-37
• /
• 2012

This study was done to define the color range, images and color characteristics of beige in fashion by analyzing the characteristics of beige that appears in contemporary fashion. In reference research, the general characteristics, the color name and range of beige was examined. In investigation research, color characteristics and images of beige that appear in contemporary fashion was defined, and it was discovered that the cases that the use of beige took more than 50% of the entire in the major collection from S/S season in 2007 to F/W season in 2010 as the subject of color analysis. The result of the study could be summarized as follows: First, the color range of beige consisted of the standard color from 2.5YR to 5YR, and color tone was pale and light gray. Second, the analysis of color beige that appear in contemporary fashion didn't show big differences according to year, season, and region. The color tones consisted of light grayish, pale, light, soft focusing colors from 5YR to 10YR. As for the arrangement of colors, it was arranged with black and it was used with the affiliation of YR, R, Y in many cases. Third, beige monochromatic image appeared soft, plain and classic. The arrangement of the image, modern, feminine, luxurious, gentle, intelligent five types were derived. Arrangements with achromatic colors were expressed in contemporary and sophisticated styles and arrangements with chromatic colors appeared to be soft, feminine and luxurious. This study draws the result to apply the fashion image of beige that was insufficient in other various color researches to design various color aspects by defining the image of beige that appears in contemporary fashion. Based on practical analysis for the color beige, it is evident that beige is an important factor and a powerful influence on fashion images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.8
• /
• pp.129-146
• /
• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.91-100
• /
• 2000

As non-verbal communication medium, clothing has various form to express the artist's statement, for example, flattened clothing. On this thesis, three flattened clothing are analyzed, these works convey the meanings, 1) tradition/ contemporary 2) cynical attitude about body 9) new concept to wear

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.30
• /
• pp.167-181
• /
• 1996

Towards the second half of 20th century the fashion market has become increasely fragmented reflecting the pluality of cultures. As a result style no longer had time to accrue individuality and so people lost interest. In the aftermath of this fashion has turned its atten-tion to its materials for inspiration and inno-vation. Taking their inspiration for new working designers have began to explore diverse materials and expressive techniques of tex-ture. Textural expression can change the im-age of a garment even on with the same structural design. This study is to present the crinkle express-ive technique of texture through the applied examples in contemporary fashion and related backgrounds. The result of this study testified the import-ance of texture as plastic element through various techniques of crinkle; 1) creasing technique is reminiscent of the delphos of Fortuny by modern materials 2) twisting tech-nique is that finished garment is twisted and crumpled by hand 3) shirnking technique is recreated method that is crushed and tied for granting the human touch to the material.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.49-59
• /
• 2013

This research study investigates the cultural significance and meaning of Thai Mudmee, their historical content, and the variety of the Thai Mudmee techniques, including patterns, symbol and colours. The aim has been to develop the traditional pattern and designs of the Thai Mudmee and produce contemporary textile pieces more appropriate for modern lifestyle tastes both in Thailand and Internationally. By reviving the Thai weaving tradition it is also hoped to encourage and maintain the continuous survival of tradition Mudmee, providing new sales opportunities and markets both in Thailand and abroad. Studying various attempts to redevelop traditional crafts in different countries brought to me the idea of how to develop folk crafts, the problems that occur in this area have encouraged me to express how folk crafts could be benefit from the design process. In this thesis I also express my recommendations for other researchers and the Thai government, as well as other people who interested in Mudmee design. The thesis concludes with the possibilities of how to improve the design of the Mudmee fabric and further areas of research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.35
• /
• pp.111-134
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this paper is to examine into the cross-dressing. Cross-dressing means 'dress-ing in clothes of the opposite sex' which has increased under the contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereo-types and give rise to the cultural insecurities in the contemporary conditions,. In this paper the author classified cross-dressing with the oppositional cross-dressing the perverted cross-dressing and the custom-ary cross-dressing. And the results are as follows 1. The oppositional cross-dressing has increased under the influence of feminism movements homosexual identities and subcul-tural identities. 2. The perverted cross-dressing has ap-peared in various social cultural contexts that is in the regional theratrical and the religious habits. Cross-dressers have used the clothes as an instrument for which the solve the contradic-tion between sex and gender role. And through the cross-dressing phenomena we can find all the category crises which are related with sex and gender but simultaneously we can search for all the possibilities through the open thought.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.117-125
• /
• 2003

Aesthetics of ugliness enlarged aesthetic field and brought back the repressed, estranged things. Hair style is not an exception. So I intended to examine the contemporary(1995-2002) women's hair styles on the basis of Rosenkranz' concept of ugliness. The results are as follows: First, extrinsic aspect contains formlessness and disfiguration. Among characteristics of formlessness, discord means appearing on a stage with a hair style derailed from our common sense or an incomplete hair style. Asymmetry means hair decoration or hair dressing which violates the principles of design. Disharmony means excessiveness beyond the concept of accent. Disfiguration has characteristics of vulgarity, disgust and caricature, and means cruelty, grimness or ridiculousness instead of pleasing beauty. Second, intrinsic aspect has incorrectness. As minority ethnic groups, estranged classes, children and women which in the previous field of absolute aesthetics were never considered as beauty appeared as subject matters of hair styles, the repressed things returned and a new genre was created thereby enlarging true aesthetic field. Like this, 1 cloud confirm that aesthetics of ugliness organized today's characteristic, peculiar hair styles, and enlarged aesthetic field.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.334-351
• /
• 2006

The purpose of study is to examine fashion bags reflected women's changing lifestyle, their needs and vogue in modern environment since 20th century. Today fashion bags can be divided into practical bag, evening bag, luxury bag and utility bag. Practical bag is a type of tote which is perfect for working mom or women carrying lots of things on a daily basis. Evening bag is a symbol of femininity in respect for its handmade artistry and impracticality by its small size. Luxury bag embodies human desire for high quality and being part of prestige of luxury brand regardless of its cost. Utilitarian bag was coming from military or sports gear and are popular among young generation armed with mobile computing or crazy about popular music and all kinds of sports. In contemporary fashion culture, fashion bags play an important roles on balancing women's social and domestic life as functional and decorative accessory.