• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and color fastness of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extract of Arrowroot leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness, color difference by C.C.M system and K/S test. The summerized finding reulted from experiment and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, that of silk and cotton was the most effective in the pre mordant treatment. In the C.C.M and K/S analysis on 5 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially, that of Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none. In color fastness on mordants, laundering, perspiration and abrasion fastness showed 4-5 grade but light fastness showed 1-3 grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.911-921
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• 1997

Recently the interest in natural dyeing has been increased because of the color clarity, natural grace and reactionism in fashion. Indigo dyeing, safflower dyeing and Gal-ott in Cheju-Do become generally known, so the study about the natural dyeing is continued with national intrust and support. In this study, 1 used artemisia for various dyeing tests because we can get it easily. 1 tested the dyeability in wool as well as cotton and silk with wormwood in natural dyeing material. I also dyed nylon with the same material for the comparison of the molecular structure. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment were done in cotton to improve the low dyeability in the natural dyeing. The result of this study are as follows; We have to dye repeatedly to get deep color in natural dyeing, and mordant treatment brought good result in color difference and dyeing fastness. 1. Compared with silk, wool and nylon, the dyeability of cotton was the worse. The color difference of cotton was 18.81 without mordants , and 24.05 with mordant. The dyeability of cotton was much increased by mordants such as potassiumdichromate, copper sulfate, iron sulfate and salt water. The color of cotton was turned into yellow-green in potassium dichromate and yellow-green with deep green in copper sulfate. The mercerization and the chitosan treatment of cotton made the improvement in color, dyeability, laundering fastness, abrasion fastness. 2. The color difference of silk was 3 times as high as cotton. It showed the similar degree with the chitosan treated-cotton. That is to say, silk had good dyeability because it contains amino group and carboxyl group. The dyebility of silk was increased by a mordant such as iron sulfate, potassium dichromate and salt water, Drycleaning fastness showed 5 grade, abrasion-fastness was high over 4~5 grade and sunlight fastness showed 1 grade in all case. 3. The color difference of wool was the best among four fabrics because of 18 kinds of amino acids. It is considered that the sulfate of wool has the polarity and help metal- mordants get the better dyeability such as potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, and aluminum chloride. The color was reddish-green in potassium dichromate, yellow.greenin iron sulfate and copper sulfate, and yellow in the rest mordants. Drycleaning fastness of wool showed over 4~5 grade, abrasion fastness 5 grade. Sunlight-fastness 1 grade. 4. The dyeability of nylon was almost same because of the similar molecular structure with silk. The clarity of color was poor. The color was yellow-green in copper sulfate and yellow in the rest mordants. Laundering fastness and abrasion-fastness of nylon was good. Sunlight- fastness represented 1 grade.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.669-676
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• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.136-144
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• 2005

Oxidative hair color is currently widely used because of its beautiful light color and good dyeability. In this study, hair color, oxidative agents, and dye intermediate were reacted. Modifier, which changes color with various hue, and alkaline agent, which opens the cuticle of hair fiber and enhances the dyeing reaction, were added. For gel formation, isocetyl alcohol was used as solvent in preparing three kinds of permanent oxidative hair color. Physiochemical study of prepared permanent oxidative hair color was done for basic information acquisition. Acid perspiration test, pH measurement both at room temperature and at high temperature, drop movement test, dyeability efficiency upon the amount of hydrogen peroxide added, and humidity fastness were studied. Shampoo fastness and light fastness of prepared permanent oxidative hair color dyed hair sample were also investigated. All three kinds of hair color prepared showed good properties overall, however, dyed hair sample became reddish upon shampoo fastness and lightfastness tests.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.469-476
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• 1998

The natural dyestuff(chestnut dye) was manufactured from chestnut hulls by boiling in 0.5 NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. To investigate the dyeability and color fastness, cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured chestnut dye. Dyeing operation was carried in acidic dyebath of pH 4-5 because the chestnut dye is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially nylon fabrics were dyed deeper than others. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was not good. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent color fastness to crocking. Color fastness to laupdering of them were moderate to good. Also light fastness of them were moderate to good except nylon. The light fastness of dyed nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1. But they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallic acid.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2006

Tannin treatment has been used for improving the color fastness of dyed materials. In natural dyeing, the tannin treatment is highly effective in improving the fastness. The chitosan treatment also improves the fastness and depth of shade in natural dyeing. In this study, the effects of tannin and chitosan pre-treatment on the color and fastness in loess dyeing were investigated. Cotton woven fabric specimens and cotton knit fabric specimens were pre-treated with chitosan solution in acetic acid, and the specimens were then treated with or without tannin. The specimens were finally dyed with loess. The tannin treatment decreased the K/S values, while the chitosan treatment increased the K/S. Both the tannin treatment and the chitosan treatment increased the wash fastness and light fastness. In tannin treatment, tannin component and Fe component of loess may react together to decrease the lightness and develop dark color. For maintaining inherent color of the loess, it is much preferable to employ chitosan treatment rather than tannin treatment.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.106-117
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• 2018

The present study was conducted to investigate dyeing properties and functionality of silk fabrics dyed with extracts from buckwheat skin. Comparative results of color strength(K/S) values of dyed silk fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations, dyeing temperatures, dyeing time and the pH; the effect of mordants; and color changes. And also evaluated the fastness, antimicrobial property, ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The color strength(K/S) values of silk generally increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time. And the highest color strength values were obtained at a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, a dyeing of time 80 minutes, and a dyebath of pH 2. The color fastness to light of dyed and mordanted silk fabrics were found to be good, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were excellent. The fade of washing fastness was not good, however, the stain of washing fastness and perspiration fastness showed relatively good grade. The Al, Cu, Fe mordanted silk fabrics(except Fe for Klebsiella pneumoniae) showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the mordanted fabrics were generally improved. Moreover, the Cu and Fe mordnared fabrics showed very exceptional ultraviolet protection factors.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.225-232
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• 2019

The colorants of kale powders were optimally extracted using an 1:1 mixture solvent of ethanol and DMSO at 105℃ for 30 minutes obtaining a high yield of 359.7㎍/mL chlorophylls. Low color fastness of the dyed fabrics with the extracts, particularly against washing and solar radiation, can be overcome by the combined treatments of chitosan, heat setting and tannic acid. Washing fastness to color change was improved from rating 1-2 up to 5 due to the enhanced electrostatic interactions between the colorants and the positive glucosamine unit of the chitosan in the cationized cotton. In addition, the tannic acid treatment contributed to the additional increase in color fastness after the sequential treatments of chitosan pretreatment, dyeing and heat setting.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.241-248
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• 2019

In this study, improving the wash and rubbing fastness of a natural coloring matter from Madder extract dyed on Tencel nonwoven. The cationic finishing agent(RBP), nonionic finishing agent(HPX) and mordant(PAW) were used to improving the color fastness. The two types(exhaustion and pad-dry-cure) finishing process were investigated with various finishing agent concentration. The color strength, wash and rubbing fastness of Tencel nonwoven dyed with Madder extract have been evaluated by various dye concentration and finishing agent. The exhaustion process treated with the cationic finishing agent(RBP) was effective to improving washing and rubbing fastness.