• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.51-56
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• 2020

This study aims to pursue the multi-functional textile finishing method to detoxify chemical warfare agent by simply treating the well-known antimicrobial agent, chitosan, to cotton fabric. For this purpose, DFP(diisopropylfluorophosphate) was sele cted as a chemical warfare agent simulant and cotton fabric was treated with 0.5, 1.0, and 2wt% chitosan solution in 1wt% acetic acid. DFP decontamination properties of the chitosan treated cotton fabrics were evaluated and compared with the untreated cotton fabric. The chitosan treated cotton fabrics showed better DFP decontamination than the untreated cotton. Decontamination properties of the chitosan treated cotton fabrics improved with the increased chitosan solution used. Especially, the cotton fabrics treated with 2wt% chitosan solution showed 5 times more DFP decontamina tion than the untreated cotton fabrics. This suggested that the chitosan treated fabric has potential to be used as a material for protective clothing with chemical warfare agent detoxifying and antimicrobial properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated the store switching behavior of fashion stores targeting college students. A random sample of college students completed a questionnaire that contained measurements of store property, relationship quality, switching intent of store, preference of on/offline store, purchase of brand/non-brand product and monthly clothing expenses. The factors extracted as switching behavior of on/offline fashion store are store property, relationship quality and switching intent of store. Dimensions of store switching behavior in online shopping mall is revealed to be composed of diversity/ easy to search, store reliability, home page layout, sales promotion, reliability, commitment and switching intent of store. Also those of offline store is revealed to be composed of store comfort/salespeople service, product diversity, store location, product price, reliability, commitment and switching intent of store. The significant differences were found between store switching behavior of college students by preference of on/offline store and purchase of national brand/non brand. It is expected that this results can be used as a basic material for further study and setting up the fashion retailing strategies in fashion store for selling non brand products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.120-128
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• 2008

Rayon fiber as clothing material has silk-like property which relates to other synthetic fibers. It has many advantages that is required to women's clothes. However rayon has many shortcomings. Therefore this research is to spin rayon-like polyester which has high contraction property to be synthesized by previous research to solve those shortcomings and to maintain advantages of rayon. The contraction ratio of regular polyester is 30% and the contraction ratio of this synthesized polyester is over 60%. The spinning temperature of regular polyester ranges from $285^{\circ}C$ to $300^{\circ}C$. However, this copolymer is set range from $270^{\circ}C$ to $290^{\circ}C$, which is $10^{\circ}C$ less than regular polyester due to decreasing melting temperature. The spinning velocity effects the tensile strength and elongation of yarn magnificently. The high velocity of spinning makes yarn highly oriented, increases the tensile strength and decreases the elongation. This research defines the condition as following; draw ratio 2.734, First roller temperature $85^{\circ}C$, Slit heater temperature $175^{\circ}C$.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.100-111
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• 2019

In this study, the dyeing properties and functionalities of Crataegi fructus extract were investigated for the purpose of application to new natural dye resources. The effects of dyeing conditions(concentration of dye, dye bath temperature, dyeing duration and dye bath pH) and mordanting on dye uptake and color changes were also examined. The study also estimated the colorfastness, antibacterial properties, and ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The dye uptake increased in tandem with the dye concentration and dye bath temperature. The highest K/S values were obtained at the following conditions: a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing period of 60 minutes, a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing pH of 3. The colorfastness of the material when dry cleaned or rubbed ranged from good to excellent and fastness to light was rated at grade 2-3. The change in the color grade when exposed to washing was not good; however, the stain of washing fastness was good at a range of 4-5. In regards to the functional property aspects, the dyed and mordanted fabrics exhibited excellent results with a 99.9% reduction rate, and excellent ultraviolet protection factors.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2021

This study aims to prepare the fabric with detoxification properties against chemical warfare agent by the simple treatment. For this purpose, polypropylene non-woven fabric(PP) was treated with polyethyleneimine(PEI) and guanidinylated PEI and detoxification properties of the guanidinylated PEI treated PP were evaluated using diisopropylfluorophosphate(DFP), as a chemical warfare agent simulant, and compared with the untreated and PEI treated PP. The half-lives of DFP on guanidinylated PEI treated PP and untreated PP were 334 min and 714 min, respectively. The half-life of DFP with guanidinylated PEI treated PP was 53.22% shorter than with untreated PP. This result shows that guanidine group in guanidinylated PEI treated PP was acted as a base catalyst for hydrolysis of DFP and decreased half-life of DFP. Therefore, it is expected that guanidinylated PEI treatment can be an simple pathway to prepare the detoxification fabric material for protective clothing against chemical warfare agents.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.406-421
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• 2021

During the COVID-19 pandemic, the obligatory wearing of masks has led to increased consumer demand and the diversification of mask design. Accordingly, it is necessary to understand the inner meaning and characteristics of masks in the pandemic situation. Therefore, the purpose of this research is to analyze the characteristics of fashionable masks and their new cultural meaning under the COVID-19 pandemic. This research is based on literature review and empirical research. Drawing on an investigation of the historical evolution of masks and their transition under the pandemic (exhibiting differences in mask culture among countries and regions), this study analyzed 54 distinctive fashion masks designed by fashion brands and influencers that appeared from January 2020 to January 2021. The characteristics of fashion masks identified under the influence of the pandemic are as follows: Message delivery on political issues and human rights; psychological defense and expression of individuality; and conspicuous display via luxurious materials and luxury brand logos; moreover, the design of the mask uses the same material, color, pattern, decoration, and other methods as clothing to achieve the overall style. Over the course of the pandemic (and even in post-pandemic lifestyle), fashion masks are becoming more diversified conveying new social and cultural meanings.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.538-553
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• 2021

As interest in the sustainable fashion industry continues to increase along with climate issues, it is necessary to identify research trends in sustainable fashion and seek new development directions. Therefore, this study aims to analyze research trends on sustainable fashion. For this purpose, related papers were collected from the KCI (Korean Citation Index) and Scopus, and 340 articles were used for the study. The collected data went through data transformation, data preprocessing, topic modeling analysis, core topic derivation, and visualization through a Python algorithm. A total of eight topics were obtained from the comprehensive analysis: consumer clothing consumption behavior and environment, upcycle product development, product types by environmental approach, ESG business activities, materials and material development, process-based approach, lifestyle and consumer experience, and brand strategy. Topics were related to consumption, production, and education of sustainable fashion, respectively. KCI analysis results and Scopus analysis results derived eight topics but showed differences from the comprehensive analysis results. This study provides primary data for exploring various themes of sustainable fashion. It is significant in that the data were analyzed based on probability using a research method that excluded the subjective value of the researcher. It is recommended that follow-up studies be conducted to examine social trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.