• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.14-35
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• 2021

This study compares and analyzes the designs of Burberry creative directors, Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci. For this purpose, 322 photographs (176 Christopher Bailey and 146 Riccardo Tisci) were collected and the data analysis criteria were classified into color, shape, material, decoration, item, and fashion style. With respect to the data analysis method, statistical analysis and content analysis were combined. First, the design characteristics of Christopher Bailey top and bottom combined bright tone, tone-in-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combination, and smart casual appeared very frequently. Second, the design characteristics of Riccardo Tisci top and bottom combined were monotone, tone-on-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combinations, and street culture. Third, the design differences between creative directors were significantly different in color, tone, color arrangement, pattern, material type, material combination, detail, top and bottom items, and fashion style. Burberry men's wear maintains Burberry's traditional design identity with achromatic colors, beige-based colors, and beige checks. Christopher Bailey's design direction is characterized by modernity in a casual mood that emphasizes practicality. The design direction of Riccardo Tisci is characterized by a wide gap between images in a semi-formal style that emphasizes Burberry's tradition and a free-spirited casual style.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.125-132
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• 2013

Recently, the consciousness of energy crisis is rapidly growing and sustainable eco-friendly energy sources are becoming issue. Therefore the portable electronic device requires new energy sources for providing continuous power supply and the power energy harvesting system of the human body that enables the power-harvesting research requests anytime, anywhere. One of the sources for energy harvesting is heat energy, which is the difference in temperature of the body and the surrounding environment. We tried to analyze the temperature difference between the environmental temperature and the temperature inside clothing according to the structure of the closed portion. And we examined the temperature difference between the environmental temperature and the temperature inside clothing according to the material of the clothing. The analysis showed that we have been able to get different results at parts of the body in the temperature inside clothing according to the structure of clothing. In upper torso of the chest and back, the temperature inside clothing of 'closed structure' was higher than the temperature inside clothing of 'opened structure'. In the section of arm and leg, it was reduced the difference of temperature inside clothing between 'closed structure' and 'opened structure'. It was particularly noticeable in the section of leg. The results of analysis of the difference between the environmental temperature and the temperature inside clothing according to the material of the clothing, in both cases of the two materials, 'closed structure' was higher than the 'opened structure' in the difference value between the environmental temperature and the temperature inside clothing. There was a difference according to the material in the section of leg. In this study, we outlined the basic guidelines for developing heat energy harvesting clothing by exploring the structure and material of clothing suitable for the heat energy harvesting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.109-123
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the expression techniques and methods of Upcycling fashion brands and designers who have focused on Upcycling, and have found success. The study used collected literatures, press releases, and Internet searches using the word, 'Upcycling' in order to investigate the design characteristics and to set up criteria to classify the material expression techniques found in Upcycling fashion design. The results are as follows: Firstly, according to the result of analyzing the product images of Upcycling fashion design, the most frequently used expression methods are deconstruction and reorganization, $d{\acute{e}}paysement$, and assemblage/collage. Deconstruction and reorganization is used to make most of the Upcycling fashion design products using recycled materials. It is one of the ways to create new value that transcends the value of the previous item. Secondly, Upcycling fashion design's expression techniques generally attempt to use recycling material diversely to complement the recycling material that is limited in some way to the purpose of clothing. In this process, we can find expression techniques used to bring out) the characteristics of Upcycling fashion design. Patching, adding, cutting, folding, or weaving is the technique mainly employed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.7-26
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• 1982

Investigation for industrial revolution has been recognized as an important issue of historical science, since industrial revolution itself was a historical moment in modern economic society and in the forming of modern capitalistic culture. If clothing culture had been developed in close relation to social culture. industrial revolution which gave a base for modern capitalistic culture, would be a birth of modern clothing as well as a moment for modernization of western clothing. As it takes for granted that industrial revolution, historical phenomenon is a developmental base of modern clothing culture. This study tried to enlighten the origin of modern clothing culture phenomenon with investigation of industrial revolution as a historical moment in modern clothing culture through documental study. Historian's point of view and method of studying are important when we investigate the clothing phenomenon. Although culture phenomenon of industrial revolution has been evaluated usually through socialogical aspect, studying for clothing culture phenomenon must be carried out on aethetical as well as well as sociological aspect, on account of dualism of clothing, as it is social and artistic nature. In 19th century, there were technical improvement, changing patterns of production, changing social relation and beginning of mass culture. At the same time clothing culture phenomenon was changed in relation to modern capitalistic society. The findings of the study could be summarized as follows. 1. Technical improvement in textile industry and fitting process brought about mechanization of clothing industry. 2. Appearance of popular clothing culture made it easy to spread to various classes of society. 3. Development of transportation system and communication channel made it internationalization of western clothing. 4. Recognition of importance in functional style of clothing. 5. The pursuit of modern aesthetics made rapid changing mode of clothing. Above distinctive features of modern clothing culture were derived from by-product of machinary culture, mass culture, internationalism, rapidly changing mode of various culture during industrial revolution. Industrial revolution was a change of the material world as well as in industry owing to machine advent, then the culture part that displayed directly these changes was the plastic arts of living that mould the material. The problem of clothing construction caused by industrial revolution was solved by pursuing the functional aesthetics. Clothing phenomenon as a process of value transfer participates mass culture in closs relation to general change of various culture caused by industrial revolution. Therefore western clothing gained the qualities of modern culture, condensed as function, and popularity in the process of modernization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.776-787
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• 2020

This study investigated physiological and subjective responses to different types of firefighter station uniforms made with various designs and materials. Six healthy males participated in this study that consisted of 20 min of rest, 30 min of treadmill exercise, and 30 min of recovery in a hot and humid environment (34℃ and 65%RH). The experimental clothing conditions were as follows. 1) a fitted T-shirt and trouser made of 100% polyester (FC-Uniform), and 2) flame retardant T-shirts made of acrylic and cotton as well as trousers with aramid and polyester, designed for overfitting (Control). There were no significant differences in the body temperature, and sweat rate between the two conditions; however, the heart rate with the FC-Uniform was significantly lower than Control (p=.025). The clothing microclimate temperature at the chest of the FC-Uniform was significantly lower than the Control (p=.037), and a difference of 1℃ was maintained until the recovery was complete. There were no significant differences in the subjective responses; however, participants experienced a humidity sensation faster with FC-Uniform in the recovery phase. The results indicate that changes in the design and material of firefighter station uniforms may have a positive influence on reducing the thermal stress of firefighters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.307-313
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• 1999

This study investigated material the type(sewn-in stamped-on etc) of the label and its placement(location on the product) on children's clothing in order to survey consumer complaints to suggest the improvement. The data were collected from label-producing companies by surveying children's clothing displayed at department store as well as by questionnaire to 205 consumers who were mothers of preschool children. The results were as follows : 1. 100% polyester was the most used raw material for brand labels and nylon was for care labels. 2. Most brand labels were one piece labels and located inside the back of neck line by sewn-in either on the top on each sides or on all four sides, Care labels were usually sewn-in on the inside of left-side seam line. The texture of care label was softer than that of brand label and two pieces of care labels were widely used, 3. 67.3% of consumers complained of its stiffness while 36.1% of consumers complained of rough surface and edge 85.4% of consumers complained of an itch caused by brand labels and claimed to detach labels. For care labels 36.6% expressed displeasure of stiffness of labels while 39% complained of annoyance due to too many pieces of labels. 4. Major suggestions from the consumers were change of raw materials and relocation of brand labels. For the care labels changes of material form and type of labels were suggested and one piece of label and smaller size were preferable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to develop ICT utilization learning materials for a chapter titled 'Environment Friendly Clothing and Reform of Clothing' in technology and home economics textbooks for Year 2 students in middle school. The research methods were selected from ten types of junior high school technology textbooks, which were revised in 2009, and mainly focused on items such as jeans, shirts, shirts, cardigans, and skirts, Using selected textiles and basic design t-shirts, five works were made using structural and decorative details. The results of this study are as follows. First, textile products shown in the chapter 'Environment Friendly Clothing and Reform of Clothing' are most commonly worn and found in daily life. With regard to a reuse method, structural changes to clothing are proposed. For example, cases relating to the changing of a neckline or the use of a shirt or a sleeve are presented. There are some decoration methods adapted in reuse; using ornaments, such as spangles and emblems, patchwork, shirring and the constucting of collages. Second, following the plan, 5 items are designed with T-shirts, shirts, cardigans and skirts. For the T-shirt design, other fabrics including organza and neoplan are used from design point of view, in addition to reused textile products. Detailed structural changes of necklines, sleeves and collars and detailed and the ornamentation method including shirring, smoking, patchwork and collages are used. Third, this study proposes 6 categories (profile, design planning, diagram, reused textile product, production method and order and pictures of T-shirts developed) under the title of 'T-shirt Made Out of Disposed Clothing', selecting a blog as active teaching and learning material as a part of the ICT utilization in educational settings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.210-220
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• 2023

Recently, smart wearable products, including electromyography (EMG) measurement devices and clothing, have been developed to monitor users' exercise levels, muscle activation, and muscle balance more effectively during fitness activities. However, technical and socioeconomic barriers, such as flexibility and durability, still pose challenges in terms of comfort, ease of wear, and wearability of smart clothing, which includes devices and circuits. To address these issues, this study developed a wearable EMG device integrated with clothing to collect valid EMG signals from desired muscles while maintaining comfort, functionality, and ease of wear. After deriving a combined structure that could stably position the wearable device within the clothing, a prototype was manufactured and evaluated for fit, compression, comfort, and exercise comfort test by ten participants (height = 176.2 cm, weight = 76.4 kg, chest circumference = 101.2 cm). The study found that the prototype had smaller circumferences around the chest, waist, and abdomen compared to commercial products, resulting in lower ratings for wearing comfort and ease of wear. However, the prototype received high ratings for fitting, pressure, and the exercise comfort test. Valid signals were obtained when the EMG device was combined to the prototype for the rectus femoris muscle, indicating stable positioning of the device during exercise.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.56 no.5
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• pp.473-491
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• 2018

This study identifies Japanese study content on heat stroke prevention measures using clothes, provides basic data for quantitative wearing assessment studies, presents a developmental direction for those, and helps invigorate further research. Studies were collected concerning clothing-based heat stroke measures in order to analyze the following factors: current status of heat stroke by industry and working environment, heat stroke and body cooling method, clothing microclimate and air circulation in a hot environment, hot environments and wearable sensors, and heat stress reduction and skin exposure. The current WBGT standard does not consider the diversity of wearing clothes according to the working environment. Therefore, it is preferable to add a correction value in consideration of design, materials, and ventilation to prevent heat strokes. For the heat stroke and body cooling method, wearing water-perfused clothing is effective to reduce heat stress and maintain exercise ability. Changing the material and design of clothing or wearing air-conditioned clothing can improve ventilation and the clothing microclimate. However, further evaluation is needed on the effectiveness of air-conditioned clothing as a heat stroke prevention product. The measurement method using a wearable sensor can provide real-time data on the body response due to working in a hot environment. Therefore, it is an effective alarm for heat stroke. Skin exposure area and heat dissipation efficiency should be considered to prevent heat stroke. Reducing the covering area by exposing the head, neck, and limbs, and wearing breathable material can prevent heat stroke from increased body temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1873-1882
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• 2009

Hospital patient clothing material was treated with a mixture of chitosan in order to enhance functionality, such as the durability and dimensional stability of the cotton fabric used. Chitosan is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility, however there is a deteriorating adherence efficiency. The addition of a nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with a prescribed ratio can further increase the performance of chitosan. Changes in the structural characteristics and physical properties of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabric were observed in a comparison with fabric treated only with chitosan. The add-on ratio increased when the mixing ratio of nanosilver colloidal solution was higher; however, the crystalline structure of the treated fabric remains similar. In the case of CH3/NS1 treated fabric (where the mixing ratio of chitosan and nanosilver solution was 3:1) the K/S value, whiteness index, wet tensile strength, and wrinkle recovery angle were superior. The dimension stability, pilling resistance, and abrasion resistance of the fabric treated with a mixed solution increased in comparison to the fabric treated only with chitosan. The chitosan/nanosilver treated cotton fabric used for patient clothing material has excellent physical properties.