• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

At the beginning of the modern times, orientalism and ethnic character was the main stream of current fashion. Early in the twentieth century, orientalism had a tremendous affect on various areas of society, culture, and art. Particularly, it inspired and activated the design of costume. A great variety of colors and construction of the Orient and geometrical simplicity were based on the creation of modern costume. Ethnic placed weight on the Orient because Japan strengthened competitiveness and China opened the door to foreign countries. Therefore, a large number of the oriental costume produced by a variety of fashion designers. The oriental handicraft, motif and colors of the traditional costume have been used in modern costume. In addition, they are precious ideas for designers. This thesis is about a Study on costume embroidery close to fashion through the oriental embroidery and the concept of oriental embroidery. It is also a study on patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery shown in modern fashion and practical use through the designers works. First, concept, process of change, patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery are mainly discussed. 1.The oriental embroidery consists of life, Buddhism, appreciation and costume embroidery. Embroidery was widely used for a variety of purposes. First, it is to make a good impression and beauty. Second, to decorate many kinds of patterns and shapes. Last, to indicate social status and stages. 2.The origin of the oriental embroidery started in Persia. was It greatly developed in Iran and was introduced in Korea via China. We are reminded of the oriental embroidery of China. China is the original place of oriental embroidery. Oriental embroidery has developed the peculiar embroidery according to each climate, custom and nationality. On the basis of these, the practical use of the oriental embroidery on modern fashion is presented through patterns, skills and colors which leads Korean designers use. Even though the oriental embroidery is not very popular among people owing to a great deal of cost and a demand for labor, the patterns and colors of the embroidery has been already familiar with the contemporaries A more profound study on the oriental embroidery will supply a great deal of material and ideas to the fashion industry. Moreover, an effort to raise self-pride in traditional culture will be also in need.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.46-54
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.72-86
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• 2008

This research focused on determining the brassiere preference index and wearing status of chinese ladies in their 20's living in the Shanghai region of China, to help Korean lingerie companies in their development of bras to successfully advance into the Chinese lingerie market. The main research tool of this research was various different surveys, and the results of the surveys were evaluated using the SPSS 12.0 for Window program. The results of the survey can be summarized as: 1) consciousness and satisfaction level of the body. The satisfaction level of the brest was proportionate to the size of the brassiere, thus, people showed higher level of satisfaction for cone-shaped, semi-circular shaped, prominent-shaped(exposing), lifted-shaped brest over flat-shaped brest. Concerning the relationship between the shape of the brest and the age of the customers, people under 22 years of age preferred flat-shaped, and those between 23-24 years of age preferring exposing and lifted brest, thus as females mature and get older, the size of their brest increases, thus having preference on more circular and lifted-shaped brest and bras. 2) Status of bra wearing in China When we look at the size of the bra in relation to the shape of the brest, those classified as having 'flat-shaped' brest showed a high proportion of A-cups, ranging from 75A, 70A and 80A, where as those of 'cone-shaped' brest represented high ration of B-cups, ranging from 75B, 75A and 80B. Majority of those classified as having 'semi-circular shaped' and 'prominent-shaped(exposing)' brest showed a high ration in the size 80 range. And vast majority of those classified into the 'lifted-shaped' brest group, were reported of having C-cup size bras. 3) Status of Bra Purchasing As people mature, the main reason behind choosing a bra was the actual design of the bra, where they emphasized the importance of aesthetic values. People classified as having 'flat-shaped' and 'cone-shaped' brest emphasized the importance of design and beauty, while those having 'semi-circular shaped,' 'prominent-shaped(exposing),' and 'liftedshaped' brest groups emphasized the importance of hygiene and the material(fabric) of the bra. This shows that when people have relatively smaller brest, they emphasize the importance of external appearance whereas when the size of the brest increases, they pay more attention to the function of the bra rather than the external appearance.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.3-12
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• 2016

The aim of this study is to find the optimal combination dyeing condition for the enhancement of dye uptake and union dyeing of the composite material fabric made of triacetate and quick drying PET blended yarn. For the experiment, fabrics were one-bath combination dyed using the mixed dye of E-type disperse dye(C.I Disperse red 50) and S-type disperse dye(C.I. Disperse red 92) to measure dyed fabric's dye exhaustion, dye uptake, color and color difference according to the diverse conditions including dying temperature, time and mixed ratio of the dye. Dye equilibrium of combination dyeing occurred in $100^{\circ}C$, but by comparing dyed fabrics' K/S value and surface color, it was found that $120^{\circ}C$ was where the manifestation of color of triacetate and quick drying PET was identical. Mixed dye exhaustion and dye uptake merely changed as dyeing time increased, but color became more uniform. Therefore, it can be concluded that by using combination dyeing method, and by using the mixed dye which the mixing ratio of S-type dye and E-type dye is appropriately controlled, dye uptake can be improved compared to using single dyeing regardless of the color of E-type dye.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.139-146
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• Journal of Korean Society of Environmental Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.414-419
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• 2005

This study was performed to compare the treatment efficiencies of two media, newly developed Bio-rock and conventional gravel, in soil clothing contact oxidation process. The composition of synthetic wastewater were $COD_{Cr}$ $150{\sim}370\;mg/L$, $BOD_5$ $150{\sim}270\;mg/L$, T-N $20{\sim}60\;mg/L$, T-P $5{\sim}25\;mg/L$, pH 7 and 2 mL/L of trace element solution. The experiment using two reactors was comparatively conducted for the flow rate of 40 L/d for 13 months, respectively. Initially Bio-rock reactor was increased to pH 12 due to $Ca(OH)_2$ with hydration of cement, but gravel reactor was dropped to pH 4 due to the degradation of organic material and nitrification. This significant pH variation deteriorated the growth and activity of microorganism. But the high pH of Bio-rock seems favorite to ammonia stripping and precipitation of phosphate. Such pH variation of Bio-rock and gravel reactors were finally stabilized to pH 8 and pH 6, respectively. The removal efficiencies of organic compounds from Bio-rock reactor were 96% of $COD_{Cr}$, 98% of $BOD_5$, 80% of T-N and 85% of T-P which stably coping against variation of influent concentration. But those of gravel reactor were 96% of $COD_{Cr}$, 96% of $BOD_5$, 42% of T-N and 40% of T-P, respectively. The Bio-rock was 2 times higher than T-N and T-P in treatment efficiency. And electron-microscopic examination showed that Bio-rock was more favorable to microbial adherence than gravel. The microbial populations were $5.2{\times}10^6\;CFU/mL$ of Bio-rock reactor compared to $2.6{\times}10^6\;CFU/mL$ in gravel reactor. In result Bio-rock was favor to microbial adherence and high treatment efficiency in spite of variation of influent concentration which had the advantages in saving running time and reducing site requirement.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.13-34
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• 2007

This study approached the concept of practical or praxis in Family and Consumer Science based on the review of the concept of phronesis in Aristotle's Nicomachean Ethics. Aristotle divided human soul into rational part and irrational part. A virtue related with rational part is intellectual virtue and a virtue related with irrational part is moral virtue. Rational part is divided into calculative part and scientific part. Phronesis is one of an intellectual virtue in calculative part of soul. Aristotle defines phronesis as a state of soul that issues in praxis. Phronesis in narrow sense is a virtue which leads to praxis and it is differ from either sophia or techne. Phronesis in broad sense it includes both praxis and poiesis. Phronesis is closely related with moral virtue. Because moral virtues are habits according to right reason, hence right reasons should be considered, and this is intellectual virtue. It is called for attention that what the concept of practical or praxis in Family and Consumer Science Education should be for the determination of the relation with Practical Arts and Technology. This study proposed a tentative conceptualization of praxis and phronimos in context of Family and Consumer Science Education.clothing planning and the most categories(83.3%) had connections of repetitions. In the clothing material section, categories evaluated as gaps and developments were 55.6% and 44.4%. The clothing construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.126-134
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• 2014

This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

The outdoor apparel market has been growing very fast recently, and consumers are spending more time doing outdoor activities for their leisure. As the outdoor apparel market is growing, it has started to combine functionality with style to provide more diverse designs and colors for all ages. The increase of interest in heathy life-styles, outdoor activities, and leisure has lead to a rise in demand for outdoor apparel. Now outdoor apparel have become a part of people's daily casual wear in addition to being worn for outdoor activities. This study is focused on a outdoor jacket design which is used as down-alternative material and the purpose of this study is to design outdoor jackets using a down-alternative fabrics that improve the thermal and lightweight effects for clothing comfort, and increase the satisfaction of wearing down-alterative outdoor jacket. The research of this paper was done by using a questionnaire survey. The survey was used to examine the male customers' outdoor activities, purchase behaviors, place, expense and design preferences. Then, down-like fabric was used to make the prototype down jacket and its design, function, and satisfaction with wearing compared with other brands down jacket products were analyzed. Although duck down fabrics are representative of outdoor jackets, they have many problems that need to be solved such as feathers falling out or its vulnerability to moisture. They have competitive prices compared to down jackets so down-alternative jackets are able to gain more proportion of its market share.