• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.176-190
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• 2011

Today's young generation in digital era has a rich education environment and convenient life, on the other hand, there was negative impact on growth as normal body type because of adverse impact on an excessive study and insufficient exercise, etc. Also, for these people in IT culture generation, using small mobile including computer for long time is becoming main issue as changing factor in posture and body type in terms of spine like their neck disc. This body-typed characteristic reaches to normal adult body type in the process of physical development of adult woman and has least modification in body type. Therefore, despite of early young generation, body suitability of upper body clothes might caused imbalance. So, for intended to early 20s women, to design clothes with consideration on imbalance of body type by bended and curved spine, body type studies about size of upper body and forms are needed. As this researcher measured the body type of early 20s college women in metropolitan area, changes in body type of young generation with use of digital equipment recently were recognized since straight body type was decreased unequally and had characteristic in terms of changes to be bended body type. The changes of these body type should be considered to make clothes. Also, since there are some restrictions on this research objects in terms of local and numbers of measured objects, a broad interpretation of result on this research should be really careful.

• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.109-116
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• 2019

Survivability of soldiers has been greatly threatened by the development of thermal observation device(TOD). Therefore, infrared, especially thermal, stealth technology is applied to combat suit to avoid detection from TOD. In this study, prior to the thermal camouflage performance evaluation of combat suit, thermal signature characteristic from clothed the human body was analyzed considering the realistic condition for human surface temperature compared to that from unclothed human body. To get the realistic surface temperature distribution of human, thermoregulation and multi-layer skin structure model is applied to the human model. Based on temperature distribution, surface diffuse radiance in thermal range is calculated and by assuming the background conditions, contrast radiance intensity(CRI) characteristic of human body is analyzed. By wearing clothing, the CRI between background and human body became reduced in low emissive background but in high emissive background, the contrast is much more prominent. Therefore, this issue should be considered in design process of thermal camouflage combat suit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.569-580
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• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.651-658
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• 2006

This study was performed to provide the analysis on their size and the structural factors required in the process of design and manufacture of school girls' shoes. 371 elementary school girls in Kyungin and Youngnam area were participated in the size measurement. 25 foot items and 6 main body items were measured directly or indirectly using a digital photography. The results of the study are as follows: first, by most of measured items, the range of their foot size was very wide from the size of toddlers to adults'. That shows that the change of school girls' foot size occurred with their growth is pretty big. Second, from the structural factor analysis on 25 foot items, five factors were extracted such as 'the size of the foot', 'the volume of the foot,' 'the height and inclination of the foot,' 'the shape of the foot,' and 'the inside and outside inclination of the foot'. Third, from the cluster analysis, three clusters were classified: Cluster 1 was the group of 10 to 11 year old girls who had big-sized feet. The elementary school girls in the fourth to sixth grade belonged to this group. Cluster 2 consisted of girls who had small-sized and big-volumed feet. Cluster 3 had medium-sized and slim-shaped feet. Most of 6 to 7 year old elementary school girls belonged to this group. The above-mentioned results imply that many continual researches are required on children's shoe production reflecting the change of elementary school girls' feet size owing to their growth. The quantitative data on elementary school girls' feet size in this study could be used as basic information for the development of children's shoe design and its production.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.69-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the New-Hanbok style in modern fashion, and to survey its formative characteristics and internal values from the perspective of vernacular design. Arguments can be summed up as follows. The study historically examines the changes in Hanbok and concludes that the social and cultural backgrounds and factors that caused the advent of the New Hanbok are (1) the change and expansion of the basic social, cultural, and popular perception toward the Korean image, (2) the rapid spread of a subculture centering on the younger generation, and (3) the voluntary and systematic activities of nonprofit clubs, communities and private organizations. This is the cycle of the spread of Hanbok, which shows the subcultural selection and development process of upward propagation. Furthermore, the public, in addition to holding fast to an independent attitude regarding their choices, also show that they tolerate diversity. As a perspective of analyzing the New Hanbok style, the study suggests the characteristics of the vernacular design perspective as (1) a spontaneous indigenous nature (2) living everydayness (3) and the subcultural-ness of the era. From such a perspective, the study examines the formative characteristics of the basic costume configuration of the New Hanbok style including jeogori, traditional Korean skirts, Cheollik one-pieces, and Trompe l'oeil one-pieces, and draws out the meanings contained in the New Hanbok style, which are (1) spontaneous indigenous nature and directivity toward tradition, (2) living everydayness and modernity, and (3) open subcultural-ness.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.8 no.7
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• pp.199-205
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• 2017

Despite the economic downturn, the amount of clothing being discarded is increasing due to the fast fashion. The purpose of this study is to propose a fashion sharing service development to settle the rational consumption culture along with the abandoned clothes problem. Shared fashion rental service has attracted as a solution to environmental problems not only when clothes are incinerated but also in manufacturing process, but there is a lack of precedent research. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that it has developed two development plans based on the results of analysis of service case based on three factors by Rachel Botsman. First, active community development. Second, it is the creation of goods through activation of the shared economy. In this study, there are limitations that can't be proved through actual application, so more research is needed through empirical studies on actual users in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.13-24
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• 2005

Throughout the history of fashion and fashion collections, fashion design has been influenced by fine arts. Philosophy and concept of fine arts has been inspiration on the development of fashion design which brings on the close interrelation between fine arts and modern fashion. In order to analyze the affect of fine arts such as Pop art on fashion this study inquires into new perspective that considers different social contexts on the premise that acknowledges the essential difference between the genre of fine arts and design. This study researches the influence of Pop art which has been inspiration on fashion designers since the birth in the 1960s and often appears in recent fashion trends. In view of the results achieved in this study, Pop art-inspired fashion does not concern the aesthetic contemplation of everyday life in western society anonymously as in Pop art but deals with pop art as new ideas in a way that adopts images randomly from designer's convenience which is equivalent to the conception of pastiche. In addition, it was inferred that Peter Pan syndrome exert influence as a mental process and Kidult trend operate on Pop art-inspired fashion as a social phenomenon. On the basis of the theoretical background, the formative features in Pop art-inspired fashion from Spring/Summer 2000 to Spring/Summer 2004 collection has been analyzed. The results fall on the following four categories; those are the use of Pop color which resembles the Hard-edge technique in Pop art, direct appropriation of Pop art such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichitenstein's works on clothes and accessories, adaptation of Pop art's subject using brand names of mass products or icons in mass culture as design motives, and application of representation method in Pop art such as Andy Warhol's silk screen techniques or Tom Wesselman's composition of pictures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.848-858
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• 2007

Sontag and Lee (2004) recently developed an objectively measurable instrument, the Proximity of Clothing to Self(PCS) Scale, which measured the psychological closeness of clothing to self. They validated a 4-factor, 24-item PCS Scale for use with adolescents and identified the need for confirmation of the factor structure with other age groups. This paper extends the work of Sontag and Lee by employing the PCS Scale with older persons, age 65 and over, and reports the validation of a 3-factor, 19-item PCS Scale for older persons. A mail survey was sent to a national random sample of 1,700 older Persons by means of a list purchased from a U.S. survey sampling company in late November 2004. Total usuable number of respondents was 250 with an adjusted response rate of 15.6 percent. Three analytical rounds of confirmatory factor analysis(CFA) to test the construct validity of the PCS Scale were conducted by using AMOS 5.0(Analysis of Moment Structures), one of several structural equation modeling(SEM) programs. Completion of three rounds of the CFA resulted in a 3-factor, 19-item PCS Scale with demonstrated construct validity and reliability for older persons. The three PCS dimensions are clothing in relation to 1) self as structure-process(PCS Dimension 1-2-3 combined), 2) self-esteem-evaluative and affective processes(PCS Dimension 4-5 combined), and 3) body image and body cathexis(PCS Dimension 6). The initially hypothesized 6-factor scale(Sontag & Lee, 2004) was not confirmed for adolescents in their study nor with older persons in this study. In addition, the 4-factor solution for the adolescent group did not hold for older persons. It appears that the self-system of older persons is more integrated than may be true for younger individuals. Recommendations for future testing of construct validity of the PCS Scale are made.