• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2024

"Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• Korea journal of population studies
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.58-82
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• 1998

It is usually proposed that job security of old age workers is hampered by the structure of wage increasing with age. This paper sets forth a model to comprehend the characteristic of the old age workers' labor market and policy implications derived from it. In order to stimulate demand for old age workers, policy initiatives should be taken as follows : the wage criteria should be simplified which apply differently from one institution to other; incentives relatively favorable for employing old age workers' in manufacturing sector should be also given to service sectors; employment subsidy or other tax incentives should be given for labor contract after the retirement age; licensing and evaluation system for job ability should be introduced based on occupation & job analysis. To lower the reservation wage of workers, mortgage loan for house and long-term low interest loan for tuition fees should be developed together with stabilization of housing cost. Wedding culture which requires high expense should be amended. Above all, it is necessary to install reasonable social security system. Policy orientation should also pay attention to reduce labor supply of the old aged via aiding old age workers' firm opening and voluntary civil service together with developing various honor programs for members of civil corps.