• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.243-258
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• 1999

This is a study of CHOK-DU-RI(族頭里) a black crown-like headpiece worn by woman on formal occasion in Chosun Dynasty and has succeeded until now. CHOK-DU-RI was originated by BOKTAK worn by Mongolian noblewomen and inflowed to the last period of Koryo dynasty under occupation of Yuan. The documentary records of O-JU-YON-MUN-CHSNG-JON-SAN-KO( by Lee Kyu-kung CHUNG-JANG-KWAN-JON-SUH by Lee Tock-mu and KO-SA-TONG by choe Nam-sun verify CHOK-DU-RI is a custom of mongolian fusion that was affected by KO-KO of Yuan and was formed. Ko-Ko is the same as BOKTAK. It is assumed KO-KO is a borrowed name as its transcription varies. The name was given according to its appearance which is certified by the record CHANGCHUN-CHIN-IN-SEO-BANG-YU-RAM-KI. It says that it can be simply named KO-KO as its edge is alike ad goose or a duck. In addition KO-Ko was called CHOGTAI in case of being added a camel fur that is JUGDUR. CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI which of being added a camel fur that is JUGDUR, CHOGTAI similarily pronounced with CHOK-DU-RI which provd CHOK-DU-RI was originated in Mongol. The shape of BOKTAK is very high and wided toward the top with the top with the angle getting more pointed and a feather stuck on the side. But its height got lower and its size smaller as it did gradually Koreanized to a CHOK-DU-RI. The use of CHOK-DU-RI has been settled since the last period of Chosun Dynasty. It came to stay as a popular custom when King Young-jo and Jong-jo wanting to do away with the corrupt practice of KA-CHE encouraged women at that time to do their hairs with CHOK-DU-RI instead of KA-CHE. It is as follows the classification of CHOK-DU-RI. First classified by a use group is divided into ceremonial use such as the seven treasures CHOK-DU-RI and jeweled CHOK-DU-RI. Hereby it is assumed that CHOK-DU-RI was used regardless of fortune. Secondly it varies by its type of frame. There are SOM CHOK-DU-RI OHT CHOK-DU-RI and O-YOM CHOK-DU-RI a kind of SOM CHOK-DU-Ri formed a base of O-YOM-MO-RI. The third group by jeweling has WHE-BONG CHOK-DU-RI and TA-BONG-CHOK-DU-RI JEwele CHOk-DU-RI can be still seen being commercially lent and worn by the brides at nuptical ceremonies performed in tradition of fashion and when worn bya bride as she gives her parents to her parents-in-law.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.101-118
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• 2002

This study focuses on the ideas that Chok-Du-Ri(족두리)ㆍHwa-Gwan(화관) are mentioned a substitute preventing abuses of luxury mood by Gache(가채) as the sharpest social problem at that time. First, the origin of Chok-Du-Ri(족두리) was introduced from Ko-Ko-Gwan(고고관) of Mongo(몽고) in Korea dynasty, then was linked to Chosun. That is, Ko-Ko(고고) started from headgear reflecting spiritual view of the northen people, its size was getting smaller passing through Ming(명) dynasty, its essential decoration changed and it carried out Jeon-Ja(전자) remaining decoration nature by real accessories, then it might be descended to Chosun. Second, Hwa-Gwan(화관) is very different from Nanaec(난액) of Chosun Dynasty Records, rather Jeonia, the original form of Chok-Du-Ri, is more similar to it. Third, its decoration like color, jewel, pattern etc influenced wishes of this life like sex, prosperity, glory, longevity, blessing, wealth and fame. Fourth, Chok-Du-Ri(족두리) was restored a substitute for Gache(가채), it was accessory for preventing luxury life, besides it was modeled from headgear in China, Chosun people had it. It is worthwhile as it was based on Chosun Sinocentrism(조선중화주의) in the latter period of Chosun and made it the fruit of that age. Moreover, in those days Qing(청) society accepted the advanced culture and institutional profit of Qing(청) actually, social mood is that home and overseas policy was corrected in many parts, Chok-Du-RiㆍHwa-Gwan were mentioned a substitute of Gache, symbol of luxury. It shows one part of Practical Thougth that abolishes vanity and affectation and makes useful profits in the latter period of Chosun.