• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.2 s.216
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• pp.49-59
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• 2006

Mourning culture has tended to be reduced to mere empty formalities with more simplified regulations. Changes in modern life style make it difficult to perform extended mourning ceremonies and the venues for mourning ceremony have shifted from private homes to chapels of rest in hospitals or Funeral Homes. Mourning clothing, the symbol of filial duty, has gradually been changed in shape. The study purposes were to research in the shapes of modern mourning clothing through field study on mourning clothing manufacturers and to compare traditional mourning clothing with the modern varieties through the actual making of traditional male mourning clothing based on old regulations. The study of mourning clothing through actual making prevents transformation and provides practical research data. The study methods were inquiry into old documents, field study, and actual clothing making. The study results are as follows. First, in terms of shape, traditional and modern mourning clothing are different in Garyeong, Lim and Daehacheok of Choiui. In case of Choisang, traditional clothing has one central plait in its front and rear sides while modern clothing one has 3 single plaits in each side. Second, in terms of sewing, traditional mourning clothing leaves an exterior margin to sew up in Choiui and an internal one in Choisang. However, modern mourning clothing has various types of sewing and plaits depending on the manufacturers and all sewing is done by machine. Third, in terms of material, traditional mourning clothing is made of Korean hemp and features narrow width, while modern clothing is made of Chinese hemp and features broad width.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.119-128
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• 2000

this study was designed to discuss the pattern of Confucian funeral ceremony and its costumes in Chosun dynasty thereby exploring the ideas and symbolic meanings expressed on them. 1. Male's official mourning dresses were composed of Choieui symbolizing sadness Choisang(최상), Dukun Sangkwan Sujil Yojil Kyodai and mourning stick Female's official mourning dresses consisted of Daersoojangkon and Kaedoo which were of simple kinds as compared to those of males. Duration of wearing mourning dreses was the longest to the death of father husband and eldest son The forms of mouring dresses were one and the same irrespective of the noble and the mean which expressed the sameness of the sorrow full of losting blood relative. Symbol expressed on funeral ceremony costumes were something like "eldestson-oriented" "male-centered" "distinction of the sexes" and "principle of yin and yang" to reinforce vitality to the costumes. 2. In the other funeral ceremony costumes in a royal fami8ly were those Euijangsu in red and blue colors Yeosakon in purple and white colors. Bandsman in Danryung and Guards in Kukonbok Changeui and Hoeui with five colors while the generally of people woere white dress in the ceremony Hoeui with five colors symbolized the principle of Yin and Yang costumes of military uniforms the dignity of the royal family: white dresses grife symbolizing the dignity of a royal family and Confucian sorrow as well 3. Unlike the mouring dresses there were great differences relative to socio-ecpmpomic status in funeral goods for dercoration Soyeo and daeyeo Among the goods the instrument to drive out evil spirites symbolized shamanism the distinction of Soyeo and Daeyeo separation of body and soul; the sculpture of the Lord of Hades and messenger philosophy of buddhistic netherworld: the engraving of blue and yellow dragons in bier and Juksanma the principles of Yin and Yang : elaborate burial accesaries realistic viewpoint of the hereafter.