• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.89-105
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• 2014

This study researched the changes in everyday wear in China since the mid-20th century. The study was conducted by interviewing 13 Chinese persons who were familiar with the public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to now, and the results were analyzed through categorical analysis and subject analysis. First of all, due to the influences of Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-zhuang and Bulaji, political characteristics were represented the most during the reconstruction time, and during this time, Jieyueling also became famous. Second, during the period of the Cultural Revolution, the government used many mechanisms to control people's thought, so Junfu/Junbianfu and sailor shirt were the most common clothing. Third, information from the West began to enter the Chinese market and it started to influence and change the Chinese thinking. Suit, bat wing sleeves, colorful skirt, flares and jeans became more and more popular in the reform and open times. Fourth, during the personality expression time, people not only copied fashion icons' styles, but also created new styles like sexy, cute, ethnic, K-pop, street, and DIY style, in order to show their personality. Finally, during these 60 years, the changes of Chinese everyday wear were characterized by de-politicization, ready-made, diversification and individualization.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.614-624
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• 2014

This study is intended to offer basic data for developing outdoor clothing exported to China by identifying how Chinese consumers use outdoor clothing. To accomplish the objective, a survey was conducted on 300 male and female Chinese tourists in their 10s to 40s who have purchased outdoor clothing before. As more than twice as many respondents said they wear sweatsuit or everyday clothes for mountain-climbing instead of outdoor clothing, the necessity of outdoor clothing is obviously perceived at a low level. Among them, 57.4% wear outdoor clothing as townwear in everyday lives, and other respondents are dissatisfied with the design. Thus, it is necessary to develop townwear-style design. When buying outdoor clothing, wearability was the biggest consideration. Also, the first criteria for evaluating outdoor clothing was practicality for mountain-climbing activities. The functionality of outdoor clothing they needed the most was air permeability. As for outdoor clothing top, the main inconvenience was tightness around the neck. As for bottoms, it was tightness of pants when bending knees. In terms of areas to be improved, the No. 1 was unformed design. Thus, it is imperative to develop design of diverse styles. As the Chinese outdoor clothing market has grown significantly in recent years, the following should be executed by domestic companies before advancing to the market. First, they should form Korean brand image and boost the brand awareness with various activities, amid Korean Wave. Second, they should develop preferred designs among Chinese consumers and strengthen functionality of products, based on consumer survey.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.519-529
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• 2022

This research analyzed the characteristics of Hanfu street snaps in the Chinese version of TikTok to determine the development and meaning of Hanfu. Based on grounded theory, this study selected 102 representative cases by sorting Hanfu street snaps on TikTok according to popularity. Subsequently, through open coding, the cases were organized and summarized into five main categories. The findings are as follows: 1) The national cultural pride has enabled a greater number of Hanfu fans and groups to upload short videos promoting the Hanfu movement on TikTok to expand the influence of the activities and popularize cultural knowledge. 2) The users attempted cross-cultural communication by participating in cultural festivals in Western countries wearing Hanfu. 3) The 'See now buy now' function of TikTok enables numerous Hanfu merchants to upload short videos about Hanfu products to promote their products and boost sales. 4) As 'gamification' affects everyday life, computer game enthusiasts among them wear Hanfu in the form of role-playing. 5)As a unique "meme" phenomenon on TikTok, wearing Hanfu to make interesting videos has also become a form of entertainment. Thus, although the characteristics of Hanfu street snaps on TikTok originated from the transmission of Hanfu culture, the culture has now been transformed through social media into symbolic consumption and play culture.