• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.977-995
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• 2023

This study was aimed at determining the connection between ancient Korean embroidery and the Cheonsuguk mandala-embroidery insignia. Literature and empirical studies were conducted simultaneously, with the scope of these analyses spanning up to 7C in ancient Korea and Japan. The present study confirmed that the structure of Goguryeo tomb murals influenced by Buddhist art is represented in the Cheonsuguk mandala-embroidery insignia, and changes in the image resulted in modifications to the embroidery technique. Embroidery and color composition via complementary color contrast were implemented through Variant 1 outline stitching, which exhibited the development of Baekje embroidery. The embroidery technique confirmed that the form of embroidery developed in to chain stitching, needle looping stitching, outline stitching, satin stitching and Variant 1·2 outline stitching. These findings indicate that Cheonsuguk mandala-embroidery insignia is the result of the integration of the Goguryeo and Baekje cultures.