• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.12 no.34
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• pp.743-769
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• 1974

Au debut I'habit Iiturgique ne differait de I'habit de fete du simple citoyen que par sa richesse. C'est seulement quand, dans la vie courante, on adopta la robe courte que le vetememt liturgique commenca a se distinguer, meme par la forme, du costume civil. Les ornements liturgiques, en effet, ne sont qu'une forme stylisee de l'habit de fete de la fin de l'Empire Romain (du IIIeme au Veme siecle). Pour une ceremonie religieuse on se presente bien habille. Le meme sentiment de respect des choses sacrees a amene deja, vers la fin de l'antiquite chretienne, a donner au pretre un vetememt liturgique special. Pour celebrer la messe, le pretre revet par-dessus sa soutane un costume special, compose de l'amict, de l'aube, du cordon, du manipule, de l'etole et de la chasuble. Aux messes solennelles, les eveques ajoutent a ces ornements des bas et sandales, des gants, la tunique et la dalmatique avee la mitre ; en certain cas, les archeveques y joingnent le pallium. Aux messes solennelles, le diacre porte sur ; l'aube le manipule et la tunique. De ces pieces du costume liturgique, on dira brievement, apres leur emploi et leur forme actel, l'origine et l'histoire, mais seulement apres avoir marque les lignes generales parition et des transformations du costume liturgique dans son ensemble. L'evolution du costume liturgique a partir du XIIIeme siecle peut se resumer en quelques mots en raison souvent de la lourdeur des riches etoffes (velours et brocarts) et de l'importance donne a la decoration, toujours par rechereche d'une plus grande commodite on a abandonne lentement d'abord, puis rapidement adapte a partir du XVI eme siecle, les formes amples pour des formes courtes et etriquees. Il faut faire quelques exceptions qui marquent l'influence des gouts decoratifs de gouts epoque : La periode de 1700 a 1850 marque la complete decadence du costum liturgique. On a depuis essaye de lui rendre sa beaute et aussi sa signification symbolique, par un retour aux etoffes et a la decoration de la deuxieme partie du moyen age. Souhations que, sous la direction des liturgistes, en respectant l'essentiel de la liturgie aujourd'hui, avec le concours d'artistes epris du sens liturgique et des connaisseurs des tradtions et de toutes les ressources actuelles on trouve des costumes liturgiques adaptes a notre temps dans un style plus simple et correspondant au besoins actuels.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.