• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.17-23
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• 2003

Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to characterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. The FT-IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl group can be separated from overlapping carboxyl/carbonyl band by converting carboxyl group to carboxylate. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyl groups retained in the cotton exist in three forms; ester, carboxyl, and carboxylate anion. The FT-IR data were also correlated to the durable press rating result obtained. The appearance of BTCA-finished durable press silk/cotton fabrics were improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.73-79
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• 2003

It is generally known that cotton treated with liquid ammonia has better soft handle, wrinkle recoveries and stability of appearance as compared with the alkali mercerized cotton. In this study, the various cotton fabrics treated with liquid ammonia$(NH_3)$, sodium hydroxide(NaOH) and sodium hydroxide(NaOH)/liquid ammonia$(NH_3)$ and untreated cotton fabric were investigated and compared in terms of physical properties and dyeing behavior. As the result, the strength of four kinds of cotton fabrics were similar. But the elongation of cotton treated with liquid ammonia increased slightly. Liquid ammonia treatment reduced the crystallinity of cotton and the crystalline structure of cotton transformed from cellulose 1 to mixed structure of celluloseIand III. In dyeing, dyeing rate decreased but equilibrium dye uptake increased by liquid ammonia treatment of cotton fabrics.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.443-448
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• 2008

Multidomain proteins for the biochemical analysis of the scouring efficiency of cotton fabrics were constructed by the fusion of a reporter moiety in the N-terminal and the cellulose binding domain (CBD) in the C-terminal. Based on the specific binding of the CBD of Cellulomonas fimi exoglucanase (Cex) to crystalline cellulose (Avicel), the reporter protein is guided to the cellulose fibers that are increasingly exposed as the scouring process proceeds. Among the tested reporter proteins, a thermostable ${\beta}$-glycosidase (BglA) from Thermus caldophilus was found to be most appropriate, showing a higher applicability and stability than GFP, DsRed2, or a tetrameric ${\beta}$-glycosidase (GUS) from Escherichia coli, which were precipitated more seriously during the expression and purification steps. When cotton fabrics with different scouring levels were treated with the BglA-CBD and incubated with X-Gal as the chromogenic substrate, an indigo color became visible within 2 h, and the color depth changed according to the conditions and extent of the scouring.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.43-51
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• 2009

The cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen or argon plasma, enzymes(cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and examined for their weight loss and conditions for treatment for the environment friendly finishing. In the plasma treatment argon gas had better effect on the weight loss than oxygen gas did and the weight loss of all the fabrics was increased as increasing discharge power and discharge time. The weight loss of cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) fabrics decreased in a large measure after 1 hr but that of tencel didn't decrease after 1 hr. In case of cellulose fibers oxygen gas plasma induced chemical functional groups on the surface of substrate more than argon gas plasma did so the weight loss of wool was larger than that of cotton, tencel fabrics in oxygen plasma-enzyme treatment. The weight loss of cotton and tencel fabrics decreased the initial stage because oxygen plasma pre-treatment caused cross linking as well as etching effect but argon plasma pre-treatment didn't. The plasma pre-treatment cleared the way for enzyme treatment on the whole but oxygen plasma pre-treatment bear in hand the increase of weight loss more or less because of the cross linking on the surface of cellulose fibers. The appropriate conditions for plasma treatment was 10-1Torr, 40W for 30minutes and for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of $3g/{\ell}$, pH 5, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of $4g/{\ell}$ pH 8, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.27-35
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• 2013

Cotton linter pre-treatment methods using electron beam and sulfuric acid were investigated to prepare high quality regenerated fibers for fabrics. So far, NaOH was used to reduce the degree of polymerization (DP) of the cotton linter for ease of dissolving by cellulose solvent. Two pre-treatment methods were developed to reduce the consumption of the chemicals (NaOH) and to control the DP of cellulose more precisely. Changes in ${\alpha}$-cellulose contents and brightness by the pre-treatments were also important concerns. Both electron beam irradiation and sulfuric acid were shown to be effective on controlling the DP of cellulose and to reduce the chemical consumption, but reduced ${\alpha}$-cellulose contents as well in this study. Sulfuric acid pre-treatment, which needed additional washing process after the pre-treatment when comparing to the electron beam irradiation method, gave the highest brightness and the highest reduction of ${\alpha}$-cellulose content.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.10
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• pp.73-81
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to increase the ultraviolet-light (UV)-cut ability of cellulose fabrics (cotton, ramie, and rayon) dyed with safflower yellow colorants. For this purpose, samples treated with UV-cut agent and tannic-acid were compared with the untreated samples after UV exposure in terms of K/S value, color changes(${\Delta}E$), SEM, and strength retention. The K/S value rapidly decreased after 28 days exposure, whereas the K/S value of the samples treated with both UV-cut agent and tannic-acid decreased to less than that of the untreated samples. In color changes, $L^*$ increased while $a^*$ and $b^*$ decreased, indicating less red and yellow character in color. This induced a change in the hue, value and chroma values. However the color change(${\Delta}E$) of the samples treated with both UV-cut agent and tannic-acid was less than that of the untreated samples. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) pictures showed a severe degradation by exposure in all samples. Tensile strength rapidly decreased after 28 days for cotton and rayon, and after 21 days for ramie. However, the strength retention of the samples treated with UV-cut agent and tannic-acid was higher than that of the untreated samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.20-28
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• 1993

Primary amino group was introduced into cellulose by the Hofmann reaction from carbamoylethylated cotton fabrics. Cabamoylethylated cotton was prepared by treating the cotton fabrics with acrylamide and sodium hydroxide catalysts. These amino group altered physical and chemical properties of cotton fabrics. The influence of reactive dyeing, tensile strength and crease recovery was investigated. The exhaustion of reactive dye with cationized cotton fabrics was increase with acrylamide concentration. The pH value of maximum exhaustion was exchanged from 11.0 to 9.0 in cationized cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.