• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.168-176
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• 2006

The court dancing suit, so-called 'Jeongjae suit', has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court's feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national guests from foreign countries. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles; Dangak-Jeongjae style and Hyangak-Jeongjae style, depending on dancing styles. This study examined the change of the dancing suits of Hyangak-Jeongjae styles created in the latter period of Joseon Dynasty, such as Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, Heoncheonhwa, and discussed the thought of EumYang-Ohaeng(the cosmic dual forces and the five elements) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. Generally, in the dancing suits of Bosangmu, Cheomsumu, and Heoncheonhwa, the color expression focused on the main stream of red, blue, yellow, white and black. The colors were mainly expressed in harmony between upper garments and under garments, outer garments and inner garments, a simple dress and its decorations. Especially, in the dancing suits of Heoncheonhwa, the purple color symbolized the auspiciousness of the Purple Palace where the God lives.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.34
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• pp.173-214
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• 2017

This study examines and compares music-related records in the mubo (舞譜; choreography notes) written by Sung Gyeonglin (成慶麟, 1911 - 2008), based on the records of 11 kinds of jeongjae (the music and dance performances at the royal court) found in Lee Byungseong's (李丙星, 1909 - 1960) Changsa and Jungjaecheol (呈才及唱詞綴). Even though these records are personal, they provide valuable information about the mubo of the Iwangjikaakbu (the Royal Music Institute) during the period of Japanese colonization. The eleven kinds types of jeongjae-'Cheoyongmu (處容舞)', 'Hyangryungmu (響鈴舞)', 'Mugo (舞鼓)', 'Bosangmu (寶相舞)', 'Chunangjeon (春鶯?)', 'Gainjeonmokdan (佳人剪牧丹)', 'Suyeonjang (壽延長)', 'Mansumu (萬壽舞)', 'Bongraeeui (鳳來儀)', 'Jangsaengboyeonjimu (長生寶宴之舞)', and 'Musanhyang (舞山香)'-can be largely divided into two types: Dangak (Tang dynasty music) and 'Hyangak (traditional Korean music).' The former is distinguished musically by whether or not the jukganja appears. For the appearance of the jukganja in 'Sujeyongjang', 'Bongraeeui' and 'Jangsaengboyeongjimu', the 'boheojaryung (步虛子令)' was used and given the impressive name of jangchunbullojigok (長春不老之曲).' The term punggyungjigok (豊慶之曲)' was used for music that guides a group dance and dancers. For the latter, hamnyungjigok (咸寧之曲) was performed during the development of the dance, and the pungungyeonghoijigok (風雲慶會之曲) was played at the end of the piece. As for the accompaniment for the jeongjae performed by the Iwangjikaakbu, it is significant that various elaborate names were attached to Sangryungsan, Jungryungsan, Seryungsanm, Garakdeoli, Samhyunhwanip, Yeombulhwanip, and taryung (the traditional Korean ballad), which were all parts of 'Samhyunyoungsanhoesang (靈山會上).' Specifically, the 'Hyangdanggyoju (鄕唐交奏)' in 'Jeongjaemudoholgi' was accompanied by various melodies of the 'Samhyunyoungsanhoesang', which were given extravagant names. These are the personal records of the Iwangjikaakbu mubo that were retained by Lee Honggu (李興九, b. 1940), who owns the 'Hakyeonhwadaehapseolmu.' Among them, the ten kinds of jeongjae found in the notes of Sung Gyeonglin are often referred to as 'mueui (舞儀)' and widely used for research on individual jeongjae performances and the history of their development. The notes of Lee Byungseong have not been investigated thoroughly until now and this is the first study that provides a comparative analysis of the notes of Lee Byungseong and Sung Gyeonglin. This investigation is expected to contribute to the further research and knowledge of the jeongjae performance during the period of Japanese colonization.