• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2017

Ralph Rucci, the first American designer who presented official collections at Paris Couture since Mainbocher, is known for his innovative dressmaking techniques and sculptural forms. Accompanied by literature survey, this study examines the aesthetics of Ralph Rucci's designs by content analysis of his works, Rucci's designs since his debut collection of 1994 until he left the Chado Ralph Rucci label in 2014 and his returning collection under the new label, RR331, in 2016. Ralph Rucci developed his creative designs by the following strategies: First, he reinvents the couture tradition of Balenciaga and $Gr{\grave{e}}s$ into progressive and functional American couture in that he gives consideration to a wearer's movements and comforts. Second, Rucci constructs architectural volume based on human anatomy and architectonic strategies, with the attention to three-dimensional quality of the space built between the body and a garment. Third, he conducts engineered construction summarized by his original 'suspension' techniques, which function as both ornamentation and construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.8
• /
• pp.64-76
• /
• 2015

Gilles Deleuze highly evaluated Baroque as the expression body that implements the fold theory, a philosophical thinking about the nature of beings. This can be seen as a meaning that Baroque implements the essence of the world, or the power constituting that essence. In addition, the beauty of Baroque focuses on 'New Harmony' the sum of partial forms caused by each element, and not Platonic harmony. he evaluated the aesthetic of Baroque costume as 'acquisition of liberation and autonomy', 'derived force from infinite spiritual forces'. This study analyzed the contents of the Aesthetic of Baroque costume based on the reviewed Deleuze's folding theory, Baroque aesthetics, and views of Baroque costume. As a result, it inferred the aesthetic of Baroque costume into four types, which are as follows: open structural openness, overlapping structural dynamics, integrated structural diversity, and relationship structural integrity. This study analyzed the aesthetic of Baroque costume based on Deleuze's philosophical thinking. The analysis showed that its aesthetics, which focused on "New Harmony", created energy of life and a venue for expression of power, as the aesthetics eliminated the prejudice of complexity and excessive decoration. In addition, Baroque costume is not the simple historical costume of the past. Instead, it is one of power and spirit, still existing in modern fashion. Baroque costume's formativeness and Paradigm can be said to provide the creative principle important for modern fashion because the aesthetics implemented in Baroque costume accepts free spirit, new challenge, difference and diversity, and is similar to the spirit pursued by modern art and fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.45 no.7
• /
• pp.131-140
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of aesthetic surgery attitude, self-esteem and body image on clothing behavior. Subjects were 356 female college students in Seoul. The data obtained were analyzed by reliability analysis, factor analysis, correlation analysis, stepwise multiple regression analysis and t-test. The major results of this study were as follows: First, five factors of aesthetic surgery attitude were identified: risk tolerance of aesthetic surgery, need of aesthetic surgery, image improvement via aesthetic surgery, keeping the secret of aesthetic surgery, and others' expectation of aesthetic surgery. Second, significant relationships were found between body image and clothing behavior, and self-esteem and body-enhancement of clothing. Also, risk tolerance of aesthetic surgery, need of aesthetic surgery, and image improvement via aesthetic surgery had a significant correlation with clothing behavior. Third, the most important variable which affected the aesthetics and body-enhancement of clothing was body image. The entertainer imitation behavior of clothing was influenced by need of aesthetic surgery, body image, keeping the secret of aesthetic surgery, risk tolerance of aesthetic surgery, and image improvement via aesthetic surgery. Preference for luxury goods of clothing was influenced by need of aesthetic surgery and body image. Body-enhancement of clothing was influenced by body image, image improvement via aesthetic surgery, and self-esteem.

• English Language & Literature Teaching
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.253-270
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this paper is to illuminate how Suzan-Lori Parks reveals colonized oppression and violence in a black woman's body in Venus. The body of Hottentot Venus is an 'object' of white male spectators' gazes and a dissection from a medical study. The report on her pathologic anatomy gives the audience the illusion that the body of a black woman is inferior to those of others. Not only 'subjective' aesthetics, but also 'objective' medicine makes us confuse 'fact' with 'truth' about black women. By publicly exhibiting her erotic body, Venus is represented as a singular emblem for nineteenth-century colonial discourse on race and sexuality. Her body stands for the powerful signifier of raped Africa. A distinctive feature of black Venus is her raciality. The ownership of her body is only transferred from Mother-Showman to Doctor Baron. She had no right to her ownership. Her body is an object of hatred and curiosity and at the same time a site which is represented by conflicting desires. Parks' eventual goal in Venus is to investigate 'hindsight' of Venus Hottentot, 'the past' and 'the posterior'. As the meaning of original chocolate can be regained, the insulted and damaged body of Venus should also be recovered and resurrected.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.40-57
• /
• 2013

In examining the relationship between fashion and art which are intimately interrelated, the body is a suitable subject in that it is the common object of representation. This study investigates and compares the images of the body in Francis Bacon's paintings from 1940s to 1970s and the formative aspect and aesthetic value of the abstract body images in Rei Kawakubo's designs since 1980s. The figures in Bacon's paintings are confusingly and atypically deformed as well as distorted, which are the combinations of the anatomies without references, not so much represented objects as experienced sense. Kawakubo's designs attempt to deform the body, moreover, she transforms the body; represent abstract forms without association with any other figures that exist, emphasizing sculptural or architectural shapes of garment. She suggests extensive visual language of dress by challenging the norms of beauty. The body in Bacon and Kawakubo's works is dispersive as well as complex in that the body images are deconstructed, fragmented, and exaggerated. Respectively, they articulate the perception of the body in postmodernism era by destroying the myth of subject; furthermore establish the aesthetics that transcend conventional ideals by reevaluating as well as refusing the standards of beauty.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.21
• /
• pp.219-231
• /
• 1997

Now, Clothing has new position which is a part of aesthetics and symbolic code. To investigate this phenomenon, three works which express the meaning with "absence of body" in clothing were analyzed. In results, 1) the confrontation of male/female was represented by positive/negative, active /passive, present/absent. 2) male/female means sociaVprivate, body/clothing the relevant/the irrelevant subjective/additive. 3) one/numbers, simple/various, limited! free present the various way of wearingrious way of wearing

• Journal of Korean Philosophical Society
• /
• v.139
• /
• pp.265-313
• /
• 2016

This research aims to reconstruct the philosophical content and essence of Schopenhauer's metaphysics of music in his book, Die Welt als Wille und Vorstellung, particularly in paragraph 52, and to pay close attention to its theoretical account of music in the context of traditional musical aesthetics. The question whether Schopenhauer's theory of music is about aesthetics of feeling or about absolute music is dealt with at the end of this paper. It can be answered only within the whole system of his philosophy, because Schopenhauer's theory of music is the result of his philosophical reflections, and plays an important part in his metaphysics of the will. Schopenhauer's music theory, or rather his metaphysics of music, thus cannot be treated separately from Schopenhauer's metaphysics of the will, and is connected organically with it. As the metaphysics of the will lies in suspense between the traditional metaphysical philosophy and the non-metaphysical philosophy after Nietzsche, between the idealism and the philosophy of the body, the music aesthetics of Schopenhauer oscillates between the (romantic) aesthetics of feeling and the modern idea of absolute music.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.9
• /
• pp.1308-1319
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this is to analyze the aesthetics characteristics of our modern sports fashion, and thereby, discuss them in the light of the overall mentality or the 20th century, and thus, present the conditions or sports fashion design meeting modem people's divers aesthetics values and desired. Modern sports fashion sues can be categorized into futurist sports style, erotic sports style and American sheet sports style. And the 20th century mentality characterized by changes of lifestyle, identity and aspiration has influenced the aesthetic features of such sports fashion sues, which can be summed up as follows; first, the futurist sports style applies the functional items and details of active sportswear to design, while heralding a positive and hopeful message of technology and future by using the material of hi-tech functions and senses. This sports style was affected much by shift from social status, attraction and wealth to demonstration of state-of-the-art science, pursuit of functionality in terms of shapes and materials, convenience through See combinations of sportswear items or design elements. Second, the erotic sports style based on minimalism attempted to express the erotic body beauty indirectly by exposing some parts of body or using the material pressed against the body. This sports style was closely related with the changes of sexual identity such as neutral sexualism, bi-sexualism and homo-sexualism. Lastly, the American street sports style was born from black Americarns' sports and dances. This spors style pursues “youth” beyond TPO concept As mass media and commercial sports developed, the young generation copied sports stars' uniforms or fashions to share honor, wealth and youth with them. In sort, the American sheet sports style was affected much by the so-called “heroism”. Such a changed object of aspiration influenced the aesthetic characteristics of American shot sports style directly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.262-269
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of perceptions of somatotype on the satisfaction of somatotype and the clothing behavior. The respondents included 201 female student volunteers, aged 19 to 27, who were enrolled at university in Busan. The questionnaire was composed of three sections; perceived somatotype-self, satisfaction of somatotype and clothing behavior. Data were analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, and regression analysis. This study established the factors(the lower half the body, the upper half of the body, height, body-shape)as the perception of somatotype. In the clothing behavior, this study drew the 3 factor(aesthetics, fit, utility). The result of regression analysis reveals that the perceptions of somatotype-self are major determinant to influence on the satisfaction of somatotype. But the perceptions of somatotype-self are major determinant to influence on the aesthetic factor among three factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.3 s.62
• /
• pp.434-442
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.