• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제23권11호
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• pp.111-122
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the bodice prototype method suitable for the upper body shape of old-old aged women using the 3D anthropometric data. And it was to provide the basic data for the upper body garments of old-old aged women. In the overall appearance evaluation, the B pattern was rated as 4.00, and it was evaluated as the most suitable for the bodice prototype of the old-old aged woman. The E pattern was rated lower than normal, and the L pattern and the S pattern were found to be inadequate for older female bodice prototypes. As a result of the measurement of the waist and bust air gap of bodice prototype, the air gap of the bust was not significantly different between the patterns. But the waist air gap showed the largest difference between the L pattern and the S pattern. As a result of evaluating the appearance, the amount of space in the state of 3D simulation, and the air gap, the pattern B appeared to be the most appropriate prototype for the old-old aged women's body shape. However, there is a tendency that the shoulder end point is biased toward the back, so it is necessary to set the inclination of the back shoulder line to be more gentle. Conversely, the front shoulder should be more inclined. In the case of the 3D simulation, the B pattern showed that the other parts generally fit well. In the case of the 3D simulation program used in this study, it was evaluated that it is suitable only for the normal body shape because it is impossible to set the isometric angle which is one of the characteristics of the older female body shape. A study on the bodice prototype suitable for the bent body shape should be carried out through experiments on the actual body shape of various elderly women. In order to cope with the increase of elderly people who are familiar with digital, I think it is necessary to develop an avatar that reflects the old female body shape.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

본 연구는 표준체형과 구별되는 BMI 25kg/m² 이상 비만 체형을 가진 20대 남성을 대상으로 비만 남성의 체간부에 적합한 보디스 원형을 개발하고자 하였다. 이를 통해 비만 남성의 상의 의류 개발에 도움이 되는 자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 20대 비만 남성 보디스 원형에 대한 1차 외관 및 의복압평가를 통해 앞몸판 어깨선, 앞처짐분 등의 패턴을 수정하였다. 2차 외관 및 의복압 평가를 통해 뒤진동둘레, 뒤허리선, 앞처짐분의 추가 등의 수정을 실시하였다. 3차 외관 및 의복압 평가를 통해서는 2차 평가를 통해 추가하였던 앞처짐분을 제거하여 최종 패턴 제도법을 개발하였다. 20대 비만 남성체형의 경우 복부의 돌출 및 자세 등으로 앞뒤허리선 설정, 뒤진동다트, 앞어깨선 설정 방법에 있어 표준체형과 구별되는 제도법이 요구되었다. 본 연구는 20대 비만 남성의 체형에 적합한 보디스 원형제도법을 제시하였다는 점에 그 의의가 있다. 후속 연구에서는 실제 착의실험과 20대 비만 남성 상의에 적용시켜 의복 패턴을 개발하는 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 3차원 시뮬레이션 프로그램으로 40-50대 중년남성의 보디스 원형을 제작한 후 가상착의로 외관평가 및 공극률, 단면도, 색분포도 등을 분석하여 패턴 간의 차이를 비교 분석해 봄으로써 중년남성에게 적합한 보디스 패턴 제도 방법을 선정하고자 하였다. 이를 통하여 중년남성용 의복을 제작 생산하는 업체에 패턴 개발에 필요한 기초자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 보디스 원형 분석 결과, J패턴이 중년남성의 체형에 가장 적합한 보디스 패턴으로 분석되었다. E패턴은 너무 여유가 없고, L패턴과 N패턴은 여유가 너무 많은 것으로 평가되었다. 그러나 J패턴도 등길이와 앞중심길이의 설정에 있어서 수정이 요구되었다. 등이 앞으로 굽고 어깨도 앞으로 기우는 노화현상에 따라 앞뒤길이 및 어깨각도, 어깨길이 치수의 조정이 요구되었다. 향후 J패턴을 수정하여 연구용 패턴을 제작한 후, 중년남성에 대한 실제 착의실험을 통한 중년남성용 보디스 원형개발이 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.434-442
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.130-158
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• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

본 연구는 20대 비만 여성에게 적합한 보디스 원형 개발을 위해 프랑스, 일본 패션교육기관의 원형과 우리나라 교육용 원형 1개, 우리나라 산업체용 원형 2개 등 총 5개 패턴 제도법을 비교·분석하였다. 이를 통해 플러스 사이즈 여성 의복 개발에 적합한 보디스 원형 패턴 제도법을 알아보고자 하였다. 패턴제도를 위해 패턴1은 앞품, 뒤품, 젖가슴둘레, 목둘레, 등길이 등 가장 많은 신체치수를 적용하였고, 패턴2, 패턴4, 패턴5는 젖가슴둘레, 등길이를 기준으로 모든 패턴을 제작하였다. 외관평가 결과, 패턴3이 앞중심길이의 적합성, 옆허리둘레선 위치의 적합성 항목을 제외하고 모든 항목에서 가장 우수한 패턴으로 평가되었다. 그러나 옆선의 수직, 옆허리둘레선 위치의 적합성, 뒤진동둘레 위치 및 형태의 적합성, 뒤어깨다트 위치의 적합성 등의 항목에서는 부적합한 것으로 평가되었다. 보디스 원형은 젖가슴둘레 치수를 기준으로 대부분의 패턴 제도가 이루어지나 비만 여성의 경우 목둘레 설정, 어깨길이 설정에 있어서는 다른 제도법이 필요할 것으로 생각된다. 또, 복부 돌출로 앞중심길이 설정 방법에 대한 개발도 요구되었다.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

본 연구는 일반적인 체형의 여성과 구분되는 특징을 가지고 있는 플러스 사이즈 여성을 대상으로 상반신 의류 제작의 기초가 되는 보디스 원형을 개발하고자 한다. 이를 통하여 비만 인구의 증가로 시장이 활성화되고 있는 플러스 사이즈 여성 의류 개발의 기초가 되는 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 1차 외관 및 의복압 평가를 통해 옆목점 이동, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가, 앞처짐분 추가 등의 패턴을 수정하였다. 2차 평가를 통해 옆선 수직, 뒤중심선 목부분 들뜸, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가 등을 수정하였다. 3차 평가를 통해서는 옆선의 수직 분량 추가, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가를 통해 최종 패턴 제도법을 개발하였다. 20대 플러스 사이즈 여성 체형의 경우 복부의 돌출로 옆선의 설정 및 밑단의 설정 방법에 일반 체형과 구별되는 제도법이 요구되었다. 본 연구는 20대 플러스 사이즈 여성의 체형에 적합한 보디스 원형 제도법을 제시하였다는 점에 그 의의가 있다. 후속 연구에서는 실제 의복 제작을 통한 착용감 평가가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.