• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.23 no.11
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• pp.111-122
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the bodice prototype method suitable for the upper body shape of old-old aged women using the 3D anthropometric data. And it was to provide the basic data for the upper body garments of old-old aged women. In the overall appearance evaluation, the B pattern was rated as 4.00, and it was evaluated as the most suitable for the bodice prototype of the old-old aged woman. The E pattern was rated lower than normal, and the L pattern and the S pattern were found to be inadequate for older female bodice prototypes. As a result of the measurement of the waist and bust air gap of bodice prototype, the air gap of the bust was not significantly different between the patterns. But the waist air gap showed the largest difference between the L pattern and the S pattern. As a result of evaluating the appearance, the amount of space in the state of 3D simulation, and the air gap, the pattern B appeared to be the most appropriate prototype for the old-old aged women's body shape. However, there is a tendency that the shoulder end point is biased toward the back, so it is necessary to set the inclination of the back shoulder line to be more gentle. Conversely, the front shoulder should be more inclined. In the case of the 3D simulation, the B pattern showed that the other parts generally fit well. In the case of the 3D simulation program used in this study, it was evaluated that it is suitable only for the normal body shape because it is impossible to set the isometric angle which is one of the characteristics of the older female body shape. A study on the bodice prototype suitable for the bent body shape should be carried out through experiments on the actual body shape of various elderly women. In order to cope with the increase of elderly people who are familiar with digital, I think it is necessary to develop an avatar that reflects the old female body shape.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.95-107
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype suitable for the 20's obese male's trunk with a BMI of 25kg/m² or more, which is distinguished from the standard body type. Through this, it was intended to provide data to help the development of clothing for obese males. Patterns such as front bodice shoulder line and front sagging were modified through primary appearance and garment pressure evaluation. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as back armhole, back waistline, and front sagging were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by removing the front sagging added through the second evaluation. In the case of obese male body types in their 20s, a drafting method distinguished from the standard body type was required in the method of setting the front and back waist lines, back armhole darts, and front shoulder lines due to protruding and posture of the abdomen. This study was meaningful in that it presented a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the 20s obese males. In the follow-up study, it is thought that actual clothing experiments and studies to develop clothing patterns by applying them to obese male tops in their 20s should be conducted.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.117-126
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• 2020

In this study, a 3D simulation program was used to produce a bodice prototype of a middle-aged male in their 40s and 50s and then analyze the appearance evaluation and airgap, sectional view, color distribution through virtual wearing to compare and analyze the differences between patterns. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for pattern development to companies that manufacture and produce clothing for middle-aged men. As a result of analyzing, J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable body shape pattern for middle-aged men. E pattern was too tight and L pattern and N pattern had too much spaces. However, J patternt was analyzed that correction was necessary in setting center back and center front length. The aging phenomenon in which the back is slightly bent forward and shoulders are also inclined is expected to appear, so it is necessary to adjust the front-to-back length, shoulder angle, and shoulder length. It is considered that after developing the research pattern by modifying J pattern, it is necessary to develop a body shape prototype for middle-aged men through actual clothing experiments on middle-aged men.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.434-442
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.130-158
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• 1997

This study outputs calculation of regression of each items for production of torso basic pattern according to 6 body types as the result of another study and intends to present drawing method of torso model by short measure method modified and supplied and supplied by experiments of wearing clothing. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for figures management and methods for analysis used are Frequency Analysis, Means Analysis, Regression Analysis, Correlation Analysis, etc. Results are as follows. 1. Correlation analysis is used to output the size necessary for torso prototype drawing by sort measure method and waist front length, back length, crotch length, shoulder point-cerricale-shoulder point, bust circumference, waist circumference, weight, etc, are set up as representative items calculation of regression of each type is suggested. 2. In the result of experiment of the first wearing clothing intended for 5 in each type and the whole 30, to develop torso prototype drawing method by short measure method, as we find some problems of the shape and propriety of neck root circumference line, the position of shoulder point, pulling or hold armpit parts, waist circumference line, the degree of dissatisfaction is high, so the second experiment of wearing clothing is propriety of each part is improved, all items except the length and quantity of shoulder dart, waist in back bodice, clearance quantity of hip circumference, and the place of shoulder line in side bodice. So, it was modifed and supplied and then the third torso prototyped drawing method by shout measure method was suggested. The third prototype drawing method was suggested, by modifying and supplying.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

In order to develop a bodice prototype suitable for obese women in their 20s, this study compared and analyzed a total of five pattern system methods, including prototype of France and Japan, one prototype for education in Korea and two prototype for industries in Korea. Through this, this study attempted to investigate the bodice pattern system suitable for the development of plus-size women's clothing. For the pattern drafting, pattern 1 was applied with the most body dimensions such as interscye fold front, interscye fold back, bust circumference, neck circumference, and waist back length, and pattern 2, pattern 4, and pattern 5 were made based on bust circumference and waist back length. As a result of the appearance evaluation, Pattern 3 was evaluated as the best pattern in all items except for the suitability of the center front length and the suitability of the side waist circumference position. However, it was evaluated as inappropriate in items such as the vertical side line, the suitability of the side waist circumference line position, the suitability of interscye fold back position and shape, and the suitability of the back shoulder dart position. Most of the pattern drafting methods are based on the size of the bust circumference, but other institutional methods are considered necessary when setting the neck circumference and shoulder length for 20s obesity women. In addition, it is also required to develop a method for setting the front center length due to abdominal protrusion.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

This study attempted to develop a bodice prototype that is the basis for the production of upper body clothing for 20s plus-size women who have distinct characteristics from women with general body types. Through this, it was intended to provide basic data necessary for the development of plus-size women's clothing, which is revitalizing the market due to the increase in the obese population. Through the first evaluation of appearance and abdominal pressure, patterns such as moving the side neck, adding the amount of armhole dart, and adding the amount of sagging were modified. Through the second evaluation, corrections such as vertical side lines, reduction of the neck of the back center line, and adding the amount of armhole darts were performed. Through the third evaluation, the final pattern drafting method was developed by vertically modifying the side line and adding the amount of back armhole darts. In the case of 20s plus-size female body types, a drafting method distinguished from the general body type was required in the method of setting the side and hem due to the protrusion of the abdomen. This study can be said to be meaningful in that it proposed a bodice prototype drafting method suitable for the body type of 20s plus-size women. In the follow-up study, it is thought that the wearability should be evaluated through actual garment wearing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.96-114
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• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2000

This study was intended to find body pattern of middle aged women and make new experimental basic pattern for upper-half of the body for them. This experimental pattern on the idea of body pattern analysis was prepared. For experimental pattern, the prototype basic model was chosen with the best qualified D model from the four meaningful existing patterns. After several steps of correction experimental pattern was made. Comparing with basic D model, the new experimental pattern composed of additional bust girth by 1cm, wider back waist by 0.5cm than front waist and additional armhole by 0.5cm keeping the same size for back and front widths. Making a shoulder line up by 3cm the armhole became deeper accordingly and the room for girth has been transferred to length. Front neck girth became deeper downward but back neck girth risen a little bit. Side line of the bodice formed with inward slope taking from the waist line by 2cm. Instead of dart, modified side line slope was more practical by its function and appearance. Abdominal girth which is lower than waist girth by 8.5cm kept in same size with bust girth. Then abdominal girth became more comfortable. New experimental pattern with changes has been examined in function and appearance. In conclusion, the new experimental basic pattern for the middle-aged women has been proved more practical for both in bodice and sleeve than other existing ones in terms of function and appearance.