• 제목/요약/키워드: Black-hat

검색결과 56건 처리시간 0.026초

헌종왕후 칠순 신찬 10곡도병과 신축신찬의궤에 나타난 복식연구 (A Study of Costumes lllustrated in the Ten folding screens on Queen Myong-hun's 70th Birthday Celebration(헌종왕후 칠순 진찬도병) and Described in the Prospectus of the Celebration Ceremony(신축진 찬의궤))

  • 유송옥
    • 복식
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    • 제32권
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    • pp.31-43
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    • 1997
  • The costumes on a royal ceremony and the changes thereafter during the Korea Empire(1897-1910) have been elucidated through the review on the paintings on Queen Myong-Hun's 70th birthday celebration and the prospectus of the ceremony. Queen Myong-Hyn wore ceremonial gown in deep blue with 51 embroidered phoenix on it. The deep blue color the royal color in the Korea Empire replaced former red color. Go-jong wore violet crown and ceremonial suit in gold color. Twenty one kinds of court dance were offered during the celebration ceremony. Costumes therein appear to have an order according to the role ofdancers. most female dancers(in 17 performances not else-where specified) wore a rather common cos-tume-flower cap outer silk garent in green hand veils in 5 colors silk skirt in red) embroidered silk belt in red and shoes in green. In Sun-you-ak two female lead dancers were red hat decorated with tiger whisker deep blue outer garment wide red belt silk boots in black bow and arrows on back and a sword and a whip in hands. In Choonaang-jon a fe-male solo dancer wore a silk outer garment in yellow silk skirt in red green lorum embroidered silk belt in red wrist band of gold embroidered red silk and 5 color hand veils. In Yon-wha-dae two young girl dancers wore lotus-form crown green outer garment wide pants in red silk red silk skirt red silk belt hand veils in jade color and silk shoes in deep red. In Moo-go 4 female dancers each wore long waist coat in blue red white and warm light green in addition to the above-mentioned common costume. In Gumkee-moo 4 female dancers wore hatlike wool helmet outer garment with narrow sleeve long silk waist coat in blue combat belt in deep blue silk and dance swords in both hands. In Youk-wha-dae 6 female dancers each wore a long waist cost in red deep blue violet pale pink green and jade color. Green color of outer garment in the above-mentioned common costume of female dancers appears intersting. Although the color was shown as yellow in the screen paintings actually it was green as evidenced by the prospectus of the celeebration ceremony.

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경극(京劇) $\ll$독목관(獨木關)$\gg$의 연개소문(淵蓋蘇文) 무대의상(舞台衣裳) 디자인 연구(硏究) - 무대의상(舞台衣裳)의 상징적(象徵的) 의미(意味)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on Stage Costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(Korean) in the Peking Opera <> - Focusing on Symbolic Meaning of Stage Costume -)

  • 신경섭;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제2권3호
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    • pp.121-136
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

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부탄 파로 체추 <참>의 역사와 연행양상 (The History and Performative Aspect of Bhutan Paro Tshechu )

  • 전경욱
    • 공연문화연구
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    • 제37호
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    • pp.327-363
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    • 2018
  • 부탄의 참은 체추 축제에서 연행된다. 체추는 부탄 왕국에 불교를 전파한 파드마삼바바의 탄생을 기리기 위해 열리는 종교 의식이자 전통 축제로서 17세기에 시작되었다. 부탄 참과 티베트 참은 <검은 모자의 춤(흑모신무)>, <화장터 수호신들의 춤(두다, 고루신춤)>, <파드마삼바바의 여덟 현신의 춤>, 파워와 파모 등 공통된 내용과 등장인물들을 갖고 있다. 반면에 <야만타카의 춤>, <드라메체에서 온 북춤>, <앗사라의 점심 도시락 골라 먹기>, <페마 링파의 세 가지 보물춤>, <수사슴과 사냥개들의 춤>, <신사와 숙녀들의 춤>, <영웅들의 춤>, <죽은 자들에 대한 심판의 춤> 등은 부탄의 특징적 연희이다. 더욱이 부탄 참의 어릿광대 앗사라들은 티베트의 참에는 등장하지 않는 인물들이다. 앗사라는 머리에 남근 형태의 긴 장식물을 꽂고 있거나, 얼굴이 비뚤어진 가면을 쓰고 손에 남근을 들고 다니면서 골계적인 연기를 한다. 부탄의 참은 라마교 사원에서 전승되고 있는 종교적 가면극으로서 원래 티베트로부터 전래한 것이지만, 후대에 점차 부탄의 역사, 신화, 전설, 신앙을 반영한 새로운 연희들이 많이 삽입되었다. 그래서 현재의 부탄 참은 매우 독자적이고 특징적인 면모를 갖추고 있다.

무형문화유산으로서 말총공예 전통의 지속과 변화 (The Continuance and Changes of Horsehair Handicraft Tradition as Intangible Cultural Heritage)

  • 황경순
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제47권3호
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    • pp.160-171
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    • 2014
  • 국가에서는 수작업에 따른 높은 가격과 수요가 없어 작품판매가 부진한 중요무형문화재 종목의 전통공예품 제작 활성화와 활용정책을 펼치고 있다. 전승자들의 작품을 구입하고, 전통공예품관리 시스템 마련과 전통공예품은행 설치, 국내활용을 활성화하기 위한 상설 전시관 운영 등 전통공예품 활용과 관리체계 구축 등이 그것이다. 전통공예품 지원책은 전통공예품의 체계적 관리, 무형문화재에 관심제고, 해외에 한국의 전통적 아름다움을 전파하는 기대효과를 가져온 반면, '전승단절 위기에 처한 무형문화재에 대한 관심확대를 통하여 이수자 확보, 보유자 지원, 종목 활성화 등 협력적 관계망 구성'이라는 성과에는 별다른 영향을 주지 못하고 있는 현실이다. 이것은 지역사회와 전승자가 자부심을 가지고 지역자원으로서 문화적 전통을 확보하는 것이 중요무형문화재의 전승을 활성화할 수 있는 근본적인 토대임에도 불구하고, 전통공예가 처한 지역적 상황에 대한 고려와 전승현장, 그리고 전승자를 포함한 전승집단과 공동체에서 찾지 않았기 때문이다. 이 글에서는 생활과 유리되어 사회적 수요부족 등으로 인해 제작기술의 단절이 우려되는 중요무형문화재 전승취약 종목인 '갓일', '탕건장', '망건장' 등 말총공예분야의 전통의 지속과 변화를 국가의 보호정책을 통해 살폈다. 아울러 무형문화유산으로서 말총공예의 전승활성화를 위해서는 말총공예 제작기술의 전수, 원재료 수급과 수요창출은 물론, 지역사회와 전승자가 자부심을 가지고 자원을 활용하여 지역의 문화적 전통을 확보하고 이를 창조적으로 계승하는 것을 방안으로 제시하였다.

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty)

  • 권용옥
    • 복식
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    • 제4권
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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소쇄원에 나타나는 전통 색채 분석과 의미 해석 (Interpretation of the Meaning of Korean Traditional Colors Symbol Found out in Soswaewon)

  • 한희정;조세환
    • 한국전통조경학회지
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    • 제32권1호
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    • pp.63-73
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    • 2014
  • 본 연구는 조선시대의 대표적 별서정원인 소쇄원을 사례로 전통 공간에서 나타나는 기호 및 기표로서의 상징적 색채발현 분석 및 그 의미 해석을 통해 작정 의도와 색채와의 관련성 분석을 목적으로 수행하였다. 전통 색채 및 소쇄원의 작정배경 등에 대해서는 관련 문헌연구를 통해 수행하였으며, 실증적 분석 대상으로서의 내용은 소쇄원도와 소쇄원 48영 시문에서 나타나는 경관 및 공간 요소 그리고 음양오행사상(陰陽五行思想)에 근거한 오정색과 관련한 작시의 내용을 대상으로 하였다. 특히, 소쇄원에서 나타나는 공간적 요소를 크게 시각적, 공감각적, 상징 인식적 공간 요소로 구분하여 시각적 공간으로 공간 및 경물의 위치와 방위, 공감각적 공간으로 계절과 시간 및 오관, 상징 인식적 공간으로 칠정과 사단 등으로 구분하고 각각의 공간요소에 대해 오정색 체계 분석을 통해 작정 의도와 공간 의미의 상관성 여부를 분석하는 방법을 통해 연구를 진행하였다. 소쇄원의 3개 공간 구성을 기준으로 색채를 분석한 결과, 모두 74개의 오정색 항목이 도출되었다. 첫째, 시각적 공간 구성요소에서는 청색 2회, 적색 1회, 황색 6회, 백색 4회, 흑색 5회 등 모두 18회의 오정색 요소가 나타났다. 이 분석 결과에서 자연과 생명을 상징하는 청색과 적색보다도 만물의 근본을 상징하는 황색과 깨끗함과 순결을 상징하는 백색이 상대적으로 높게 나타난 것은 양산보의 소쇄원 작정 의도가 자연을 즐기는 데 우선을 두기보다는 오히려 정의롭지 못한 세상에 대한 작정자의 순결한 의지를 상징하기 위한 의미와 연결되어 있는 것으로 해석될 수 있었다. 둘째, 소쇄원 48영에서 주로 추출된 공감각적 공간 구성 요소에서는 청색 11회, 적색 8회, 황색 4회, 백색 5회, 흑색 10회 등 38회의 오정색 요소가 나타났다. 여기서는 자연과 생명을 상징하는 청색과 적색이 세상의 근본과 순결 그리고 지식을 상징하는 황색과 흑색보다 높게 나타남으로써 비록 작정자의 세상에 대한 순결성을 지키고자한 의지로 공간을 작정하였지만, 별서정원에서 자연 즐김과 지식 탐구에 대한 감정을 누리려는 별서 고유의 기본적 기능에 충실하고 있음을 의미하고 있는 것으로 해석되었다. 마지막으로 역시 48영에서 주로 추출된 상징 인식적 공간 요소에 대한 오정색은 청색 4회, 적색 5회, 백색 9회 등 18회가 나타나는 것으로 분석되었다. 이 색채 분석 결과에서는 정치적 순결을 상징하는 백색이 자연과 생명을 상징하는 청색과 적색과 같은 빈도로 출현하고 있음으로써 소쇄원의 작정 의도가 시를 통해 정치적 순결성 강조와 자연 즐김을 동일한 비중으로 감정적으로 드러내고 있는 것으로 해석되었다. 특히, 이 3종류의 분석에서 공감각적 공간 구성요소에 대한 오정색의 빈도가 38회로 약 51%로 가장 높게 나타나고, 시각적 공간 구성 요소와 인지 상징적 공간 구성 요소가 각각 18회로 각 24.5%의 빈도 분포를 보이고 있다. 이러한 현상은 양산보의 소쇄원 작정 의도는 전체적으로 보면, 정의롭지 못한 세상에 대한 작정자의 순결성을 지키고자 함과 함께 별서정원의 기본인 자연과 자연의 생명력을 즐기려는 의도가 같은 비중으로 숨어있음을 상징하고 있다고 해석을 될 수 있었다. 본 연구는 소쇄원 작정의 상징적 의미와 공간 구성 요소와의 상관성을 음양오행설(陰陽五行說)에 근거한 오정색을 기준으로 분석함으로써 전통 별서정원에서 숨어있는 전통 색채를 밝히고자 하였지만, 이러한 이론이 다른 별서정원에서도 일반적으로 적용될 수 있을 것인지를 탐색하는 것은 소쇄원과는 다른, 순수한 자연 즐기기나 강학, 기능 등 뚜렷한 작정 의도가 숨어 있는 다른 사례의 별서정원에 대한 연구를 통해 밝혀질 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.