• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.877-886
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• 2006

The Purpose of this study were to study Retro-hat design. To do these purposees, the focus of theoretical approach was literature research, and hat design was attempted on the basis of the research. The focus of theoretical background was on previous research and fashion-related literature. Photo materials to analyze retro-hat design is Haute-Couture collection in paris from the 1990's to 2004 and some designer's collections. Then Retro hat design is 85 in 1,381 hat photos. The results obtained through this process were as follows. In the hats of Retro, the past style such as an Egyptian wig, a snake-shaped hat in Crete, a Medieval knight hat, Liripipe, Tricorn hat, or Bicorn hat was reinterpreted and expressed. Since 2003, Retro characteristics has became strong and frequent. By designing a hat on the basis of the direction of hat design, this study intended to find out the development direction of hat design.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.29-36
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• 2024

The public can now access movies faster and more easily thanks to over-the-top (OTT) services. The audience may be impacted by period dramas, where accurate costume reproduction is crucial. For filmmakers, it is critical to replicate period costumes using precise historical information. The goal of this study is to act as a reference so that, when it comes to period dramas, viewers can evaluate them using impartial criteria and movie producers can use data based on fact to plan their costumes. The film Napoleon won the British Academy Award for Costume after hiring costume experts to create 95% of the entire costume, according to data from the Napoleon I Museum. Following the French Revolution, the ostentatious and ornate men's attire vanished, to be replaced by a more modest and functional outfit. For tops, vests were cut to waist length, shirts, cravats, and carrick were worn, and tailcoats were the norm. The pants were swapped out for loose-fitting ones. The glitzy hues and embellishments from the bygone era progressively vanished and formed the foundation of the contemporary men's costume, which is dominated by black. The hats worn were tricorn, bicorn, top hat, and bowler, and the hairstyle changed from long to short gradually. The civil class wore short tops called carmagnoles. Napoleon wore a high-collared Napoleon collar and a tailcoat with a bicorn, which became his emblem. Green, navy, and white were the colors of the uniform, and a gray woolen coat was worn outside. The elaborately decorated costumes were worn to court and to banquets; the Napoleonic coronation costume was embellished with gold embroidery on silk, red velvet, and martyred hair; the post-revolutionary costumes gradually became more colorful. In the movie Napoleon, period clothing items were well represented, with the aristocracies wearing dark tailcoats, vests, shirts, and cravats. Based on the data from the men's costume, Napoleon's outfit in the movie was made more similarly. This study's limitation is that not every character in the movie could have their costume examined, and the material matter could not be precisely determined by examining the images displayed on the screen. Given that portraits typically feature a great deal of noble imagery, the clothing worn by common people is also associated with data limitations when it comes to movie costume design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.