• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.631-644
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• 2006

The study area is a pocket beach which consisted of sandy beach, dune, agricultural land and residential area etc. The coastal dune area is classified to foredune, dune plain, secondary (or back) dune. The foredune area is covered by herbaceous dune plants(ex. Carex kobomugi, Wedelia prostrata, etc.), whereas the dune plain area is covered by herbs and shrubs(Vitex rotundifolia). The most inner area, secondary dune, is planted by pine forest(Pinus thunbergii). The mean size of the beach and dune sediments ranges from 1.1 to $1.8{\Phi}$, which mean these values are higher than normal sediments. Sorting and Skewness is $0.6{\sim}-1.2{\Phi}$ and $-2.7{\sim}1.6{\Phi}$ respectively. We found that the soil formation process in the secondary dune area has been progressed rapidly from the analysis of fine grain content, organic matter content, and CEC.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.1445-1449
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• 2004

Even though there can be a relative long-term or short-term change of their size in natural beaches due to various changes of sea condition such as the location, weather condition (wind and rain) and sea water flow, the budget of deposits in a specific area is generally regarded to be in a condition of equilibrium in terms of technology. However, as coasts are developed by many different kinds of ways (such as construction of sea walls and estuarine, dredging for gathering the aggregate and shore protection construction for establishing a structure) and sources of silt and gravel from rivers are decreased in balanced beaches, the beaches are in a serious danger of lack of sand and sand sources which are one of the maul elements to consist of them. Many swimming beaches in East Sea are directly exposed by waves generated and transmitted from outer seas. On the other hand, the Song-Do sandy beach which is this study's target area has a great condition for beach development because it locates the deepest place that is relatively shallow in Young-Il Man and there is big energy decrease given to waves from outer seas while the waves are reaching the Song-Do beach. Nevertheless, it is considered that artificial condition changes such as dredging for site extension by POSCO, getting straight of Hyoung-San Gang river flow and extension of Po-Hang harbor caused the sand loss of the beach. Therefore, some recovery plans of Song-Do sandy beach will be presented in this study and they will be compared and examined each other by numerical modeling experiment. After that, the best plan will be recommended.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.161-172
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• 2012

The Taeanhaean National Park is located on the middle of the west coast of Korean peninsula. Due to the relatively high wave energy, large tidal range which is about 7m, and extremely complex coastal line, various coastal land-forms such as mud-flats, sand beaches, sand dunes, sea cliffs etc. are well distributed in this area, and thus various coastal ecosystems are well preserved. However, because of reckless sand diggings and construction of artificial structures in the coastal zone, the natural flowing and exchange of coastal deposits were disturbed and the erosion in the beach and the dune has been seriously accelerated. To understand of the causes of these problems, we tried three times periodical measuring with VRS/RTK GPS instrument at the Hakampo and Anmyeon beach. According to seasonal changes of the coast-line, beach area and cross-section of study sites, generally erosion process was dominated in the summer and deposition process was followed after summer.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Navigation
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.77-106
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• 1989

Two numerical models of the shoreline change and sediment transport rates, explicit and implicit, are simulated with shore structures such as breakwaters, a jetty, groins and a seawall. The applied study area is songdo Beach, Youngil bay, Korea since it has all the shore structures mentinoed above. The two models investigate the beach line changes and sedimen transport rates for the beach before design of three groins with and without an offshore breakwater. In order to estimate the shoreline changes after three groins were built, the beach response inside the three groin compartiments and the offshore barrier are also investigated. The simulation based on the initial shoreline conditions surveyed by the Hydrographic office, Koreai 1979 and 1984. The breaking wave characteristics are introduced into the models by calculation from the empirical equations and modification from the numerical and hydraulic model test results developed for waves behind an offshore breakwater. The numerical simulation describes well the tendencies of the sand transport and shoreline changes affected by wave diffraction behind a detached breakwater and by interruption of sand transport at three groins.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2013

This study introduces an analysis of the quantitative characteristics of topography and topographical changes based on precise 3D topography through 6 times surveys from December 2008 to January 2010 using Terrestrial LIDAR on the Malipo beach. The Malipo sand beach is mostly located between 0m to 1.5m MSL. The area of the beach above 2.25m, the Mean High Water, is very small. It have characteristics of topographical change of erosion and deposition along the entire coast line which more apparently appear in the northern beach than the southern part of the beach. Erosion prevails from spring to autumn, while during winter both erosion and deposition largely occur. Volumes from first and last survey were almost equal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.594-604
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• 2021

To evaluate the causes of beach erosion in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach, external forces, such as tides, tidal currents, and waves, were observed seasonally from March 2019 to March 2020, and the surface sediments were analyzed for this period. In addition, the shoreline positions and beach elevations were regularly surveyed with a VRS GPS and fixed-wing drone. From these field data, the speed of the tidal currents was noted to be insufficient, but the waves were observed to af ect the deformation of the beach. As the beach is open to the southern direction, waves of heights over 1 m were received in the S-SE direction during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Large waves with heights over 2 m were observed during typhoons in summer and fall. Because of the absence of typhoons for the previous two years from July 2018, the beach area over datum level (DL) as of July 2018 was greater by 30,138m² compared with that of March 2019, and the beach area as of March 2020 decreased by 61,210m² compared with that of March 2019 because of four typhoon attacks after July 2018. The beach volume as of March 2019 decreased by 5.4% compared with that of July 2018 owing to two typhoons, and the beach volume as of September 2019 decreased by 7.3% because of two typhoons during the observation year. However, the volume recovered slightly by about 3% during fall and winter, when there were no high waves. According to the sediment transport vectors by GSTA, the sediments were weakly influxed from small streams located at the center of the beach; the movement vectors were not noticeable at the west beach site, but the westward sediment transport under the water and seaward vectors from the foreshore beach were prominently observed at the east beach site. These patterns of westward sediment vectors could be explained by the angle between the annual mean incident wave direction and beach opening direction. This angle was inclined 24° counterclockwise with the west-east direction. Therefore, the westward wave-induced currents developed strongly during the large-wave seasons. Hence, the sand content is high in the west-side beach but the east-side beach has been eroded seriously, where the pebbles are exposed and sand dune has decreased because of the lack of sand sources except for the soiled dunes. Therefore, it is proposed that efforts for creating new sediment sources, such as beach nourishment and reducing wave heights via submerged breakwaters, be undertaken for the eastside of the beach.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.18 no.10
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• pp.1163-1170
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• 2009

The clam, Gomphina melanaegis, which is commonly called the sandy beach clam because of its habitat, is a valuable organism in the sandy coast of East Sea, Korea. It is frequently observed in large populations between 0.5 and 5 meters. We have released 50,000 seedling, ranging from the diameter of approximately 3 mm, 2007, and 1,000,000 seedling, ranging from the diameter of approximately 0.2 mm, plus 100,000 adult individuals, ranging from the shell length of approximately 20~40 mm, 2008 at Jinha beach. The spawning period of G. melanaegis, was from June to August, and the main spawning occurred in July. This investigation was carried out to elucidate population distribution on the stocking area of sandy beach clam, G. melanaegis. The relationship between shell length and ring radius in each ring was investigated as a regression line. The relationship between the shell length and shell height of released young clam was SH=1.0105SL-4.7764 ($R^2=0.7905$). The relationship between the shell length and total weight of released young clam was $TW=0.0013SL^{2.3966}$($R^2=0.71$). It draws a deduction that the ring of this clam was produced once a year during the duration between June and August.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.29 no.5B
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• pp.463-472
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• 2009

The aim of this study is to examine the effect of beach curvature on wave fields in coastal area with Submerged Breakwaters using the 3D numerical model that is able to simulate directly interaction of WAve Structure Sandy beach (LES-WASS-3D). At first, the adopted model was validated through the comparison with an existing experimental data and showed fairly nice agreement. And then, the numerical simulations have been performed to investigate the effect of according to the variation of beach curvature. Based on the numerical results, the wave height, mean surface elevation, mean flow around submerged breakwaters and longshore distributions of run-up height have been discussed in relation to the variation of beach curvature.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.10a
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• pp.9-11
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• 2014

As Daecheon beach, which is the study area, has problem of erosion and loss of most beach under the extraordinary wave during the typhoon event, it is necessary to apply erosion control measures for short term impact. Therefore, we analyzed the status and reason of the erosion by field survey, collection of hydraulic model test, and numerical model experiment. For the erosion control measure, we adopted beach feeding and submerged reef method available at that site among various counter measures. Numerical analyses were made for both beach feeding only and beach feeding with submerged reefs and these were compared with the present status to find out the optimum design and to contribute for preparing a long term plan of beach loss protection.